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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: hitachi 51g500 screen gone black
Yes worth repairing but not a crt problem. the crt's are powered by a high voltage transformer and sometimes it's caps that goes bad and in turn knocks out the crt's. but they are ok, it's in the high voltage line.
Posted on Aug 12, 2007
Every air conditioner has a motor called a compressor. The compressor provides the cooling capacity for the air conditioner. If the compressor or its electrical controls are defective the compressor may try to start, fail, and create an electrical overload. If the unit does create an overload, every compressor circuit is also equipped with an overload safety switch. The safety switch is designed to protect the compressor from burning out. The safety switch will cut the power to the compressor for a certain length of time and then reset itself. When it resets it will allow the electricity to flow to the compressor once again. If the compressor then starts, the unit should function normally. If the compressor doesn't start when the overload resets, the overload will again cut the electricity to the compressor. This cycle will continue indefinitely. (Always allow three to five minutes before restarting the compressor.) If this situation is occurring, unplug the air conditioner and get help from a qualified repair technician. This problem is often fatal to the air conditioner because the cost of repair often exceeds the price of a new air conditioner.
if this helps please vote me a fix ya
Posted on Jul 18, 2008
Check the U24 (CPU reset IC) on the "A" board. It may be burned. If you have a DVM (voltmeter) check for 3.3V across SW1 connections near this device. If you don't have 3.3V, U24 is bad. This part is not available from Sony. The TV may work if you just remove U24 from the board. I posted this fix on Agoraquest also, you can read more there (I'm "Roundabout" on that forum). Hope that helps.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
I know, this is a common problem with side loaders. I have an old fashioned top loader myself to avoid this trouble. First check that the seals on the door haven't come loose (around the glass window). Keep the seals cleaned out regularly, so grimy, icky, muck doesn't build up inside. When the unit is not in use, leave the door opened!
This will allow unwanted moisture to escape instead of building up in the dryer, to smelly muck.
It probably smells pretty bad too.
Hopefully this will fix your problem.
If left untreated to long this can be a very hard problem to fix. However fortunately it sounds like your unit is still under warranty. If the above fixes don't work, I would seriously recommend you have your unit professionally serviced and cleaned.
Posted on Jun 30, 2010
SOURCE: 3 year old LG model
It's probably a backlight or backlight inverter issue if the problem occurs on all sources and the onscreen menus. (The backlight itself usually fades or makes the on-screen image change to pink/red.) With a bad backlight, you'll usually see a very dim image if you look at the monitor from an inch from the screen. Block the room light from overwhelming this image (sometimes a carefully positioned flashlight will help you see something). If the inverter or video board is bad, you will see nothing. For an out-of-warranty monitor, open up the back of the monitor and remove the shielding. Look for any scorch marks or bulging or damaged capacitors. (Sometimes other parts will fail on this part but these can be spotted easily. Capacitors look like cylinders on a tripod.) The scorch mark and smoke may indicate a resistor or zener diode that had been used as a fuse and is now gone.
If you borrow (or have a) high-end multimeter (able to measure high frequencies - 50 kHz) or an oscilloscope, hold the multimeter probes a fraction of an inch apart about an inch above the inverter board and power up the monitor. If you see a 1 or an actual value, you have a good inverter. If you see a reading near 0, the board is bad or the multimeter can't resolve the frequency.
In either case, you can buy a replacement inverter for $50-150 and just do a simple swap. Disconnect all of the wires (connections are similar to molex and ribbon cables in a computer) and remove board (a few screws usually). Connect the cables to the new inverter. (If you google backlight inverter replacement, you'll find videos and text descriptions.) Note the part number on the board, including the Rev number, and order the exact one (shopjimmy.com or lcdparts.net are good starting points). Universal inverters do exist but can result in reversed controls (up to lower the brightness). Replacing individual parts on the board is cheaper but more prone to not tracking down all of the bad parts.
If the inverter is good, then it's probably backlights themselves (several in most monitors). These are sandwiched on the perimeter of the monitor (usually under some tape that holds the lamp, reflector and other parts together. You need to order by length and width and get ones for your monitor size. Separate the panel from the bezel. Remove the tape, and separate the reflector (make a note of how things are put together) then you have to Dremel (or use another rotary tool) to remove the plastic to get the backlight out. (They are often molded into the frame.) Then put in the new backlight and reassemble everything. See http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/default.aspx for more information but for an overview: http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/BacklightFix/overview.aspx. Then push the new backlights into place, reconnect the wires and close up the sandwich of tape and other parts around the screen. Then replace it in the bezel.
With a good spare backlight, you can test an inverter for condition (plug together and turn on the monitor while the box is open). Similarly a good inverter can test the backlight.
I hope this helps.
Posted on Feb 22, 2011
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