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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Typically, the white wire is neutral. ANY non-white wire [except green] is hot. Green is typically ground.
Hot wire should go first to a switch or safety device [fuse or circuit breaker]. If this is an unswitched light fixture, the wires will go directly to the bulb sockets. Follow the color codes I just described.
Another solution is to get a continuity tester or ohm meter. The hot lead should show connection to the center contact in any socket.
Posted on Jun 11, 2008
SOURCE: my 4ft fluorescent fixture has
They make dimmable ballasts.
The Lutron dimming ballast shows an orange wire, not a brown >> but other manufacturers might call for different color.
I am guessing here, but ballast should work with Black Hot and White Neutral
I want you to answer back and say if the ballast works with just white and black, Thank you.
Here is a 3-way dimmer to control florescent ballast
Posted on Oct 19, 2010
This is not a surprise. Many wall-mounted devices such as occupancy sensors and dimmers operate by leaking a little bit of power through the light fixtures. In the world of incandescent, this was rarely a problem - that little bit of current wasn't enough to excite the bulb. But now that we're living in a world of low-wattage lamp types, that little bit of current is now enough power to excite the lamp and cause what you're seeing. The added detriment is that little bit of pulsing that you see in the CFL can actually wear it out pretty quickly.
The short-term solution is to use the older-style, incandescent lamps.
Another short-term solution would be to attempt using another manufacturer's CFL or try an LED lamp - that's by no stretch a guarantee, you'd be rolling the dice with each lamp choice you made. The higher wattage the lamps, the less likely you'll see an issue.
There are two long-term solutions:
1) Add another lamp - the more lamps the control sees, the less leakage current that goes through each lamp. Several people have solved this by adding a 'dummy' incandescent load (like a 15W or 25W lamp) somewhere in the lighting circuit to take the brunt of the leakage.
2) Change the wall-sensor. Lutron makes one (MS-OPS6M-DV-WH) that has extremely low leakage current and may solve the problem. But the best way to guarantee it won't be an issue is to use a wall-sensor that connects to the neutral wire in the wallbox. Those devices take that leakage current and dump it out the neural wire rather than run in through the light fixture. Lutron makes one of those as well (MS-OPS5AM-WH)
Posted on Oct 20, 2010
SOURCE: FC12T9 12" Tube Circline FC8T9.
Leviton makes several of those style of passive infrared motion detection switches.
They are not without problems though. You have to adjust them for several different things.
One is the ambient light and the light off the object. The other is the delay time that the light stays on for.
There are issues with flickering and those switches also.
THe light fixture itself would not flicker if it is wired correctly and the bulbs are the right size and type. There needs to be a constant temperature also. Plus the age of the buld can cause flicker.
Posted on Jan 16, 2011
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