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How to change the wire harness on a c250 flush toilet please.

I need to know how to remove the old one and fit the new one.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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djchillsnyc
  • 151 Answers

SOURCE: have to flush 2 or 3 times to empty toilet bowl

hello, this is a standard toilet you will need to inspect the flapper that is the rubber flap that holds the water up in the tank it works when you pull the lever it pulls the chain upward and lets the water flow if this flapper is old it may not stay up long enough for the water to flow. open the tank top and flush the toilet see if this flapper is staying up long enough and giving the tank enough time to empty if not change this rubber flapper its inexpensive part.
if this is not the reason then you need to adjust your water filler valve there should be a small screw on top of the pivoting float arm
if you have to adjust it for the water limit line inside the tank this will be the proper amount of water needed to flush once completely

also check that the chain lenth on the pull lever is not pulling the flapper down quicker than its supposed to,

try this let me know your results
hope it helps

Posted on Dec 15, 2008

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whytfang
  • 170 Answers

SOURCE: New American Standard Flowise toilet won't flush

You have a sewer issue....it is entirely possible for other things to cause the toilet to loose water as they drain....but only if there is a sewer problem.....that is why there is an air gap between the toilet and the tank...(the trap) now I have been in this industry 35 years and the jet you speak of is in the bottom of the toilet that directs and forces flow down and out of the bowl as do the many small holes on the underside of the bowl lip ( I suspect ...as I have seen it MANY MANY time in the paste) that your old bowl may have had lots of calcium or lime build up (using lime a away occasionally helps) in the holes under the lip as well as other places...which reduces water flow and there by reduces pressure......but what you are describing is definitely sewer related....other water sources causing water to drain...bubbles...etc..I had a similar problem that occurred about once every 2 years in one of my homes...I had a tree root growing into my sewer line ...it would flush but on occasion...debris would get caught and a good plunging would help...but eventually...(twice) I had to rent a 3/4 inch snake from Time Rental...with a cutter head on it and remove the problem. Now your problem sounds exactly like an air gap problem...in that an overflow or something related is causing a vacuum assist when large amounts of water are drained...(ie...tub...washer...).as this happens the force the water carries and the lack of access to air in the flow causes vacuum "tugs" on other water sources attached to the sewer....take of your clean-out cover (usually in the back of the house and if you see water standing in it ....sewer problem....also you can have someone flush the toilet and eyeball the sewer/overflow...to see how it drains.

I hope this helps....good luck...thank you for rating my effort...the Fang.

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Toilet won't flush

Thetford Model Cass C2 L TC WHI - Toilet won't flush. There is power to the switch and flasher. Any ideas?

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

Digglesby
  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: Kohler one-piece has no flushing power

Don't flush more water! Trash the toilet and replace it with a toilet that uses less water and flushes efficiently; practically every manufacturer makes a dual flush or eco model. Spend your money on a good toilet rather than paying for and wasting water every day.

Posted on Nov 04, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: I removed my stereo from my 2005 Chevrolet Tahoe.

Check out this link. Should have necessary info for you.

http://www.the12volt.com/

Posted on Feb 25, 2011

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Tip

FIXING A TOILET THAT WILL NOT FLUSH!!! a simple but very effective money saving...


This simple how to, is based upon most lever operated toilets, with the cistern mounted above the toilet bowl. The make and model of toilet used for this feature is of the following:
Toilet and internal syphon
DUDLEY ELITEDudley S7 Cascade syphon
Problem:
My toilet will not flush, but the ball float valve is working and there is water in the cistern; no leaks present and the flushing lever is not broken or disconnected, what do I do?
Answer:
first isolate the water to the toilet or the main water supply to the house. Bail out the water from the cistern using a small jug or cup, (or you can syphon the water manually using a hosepipe or similar pipe, a towel to cover your mouth, and either a bucket or the toilet bowl) and remove water from the bottom of the cistern with a sponge.


Changing the syphon in a toilet that is not close coupled is far easier as you do not need to remove the cistern from the wall!


Undo the lower of the two large nuts beneath the cistern using a large pipe wrench or pair of water pump pliers, now disconnect the flush pipe and push it to one side.
Place a bucket or bowl beneath the cistern and undo the Nut which is immediately below the cistern (syphon replacing nut), some water may be released by the syphon, take note of any washers that are removed as new ones need fitting when replacing the siphon.
Unhook the lift rod from the flushing lever and remove the syphon.


Inside the toilet syphon, there will be a small plastic piece of sheet called a diaphragm; you can fabricate a replacement using the plastic title cover on a DVD case. Cut this to the exact same size and shape as the original part, and fit this to where the original diaphragm was. This is your new replacement.


Refitting is a complete reversal of removal, be sure to fit any washers (preferably new ones) that you have taken out. Ensure everything is tight but do not over tighten before refilling the cistern



on Aug 09, 2010 | Plumbing

Tip

How to fix a flush valve


  • Most toilet tank troubles can be traced to a faulty flush valve. You have three choices in correcting this common problem: (1) repair the old flush valve; (2) replace the flush ball with a more modern flapper or install a glued-in replacement flapper; (3) or install a new flush valve.

  • These repairs require a varying amount of work. The more simple adjustments were discussed previously.

  • Examine the old flush ball or flapper. If it is aged or encrusted with deposits, replace it with a new one. Scale deposits on the seat can be removed with steel wool or with No. 500 wet-or-dry abrasive paper. But if the valve still leaks, it must be replaced.

  • You can install a new guide arm, if necessary. To remove the lift wire from a flush ball, turn it counterclockwise with pliers. If you are replacing all parts, simply cut off the old lift wire.

  • Flapper. To replace a flapper, disconnect the lift hardware from the trip arm and slide the flapper up and off the overflow pipe. Install the new unit, reversing directions, and connect the lift hardware back to the trip arm. Any excess lift chain can be cut off or left dangling, if it doesn't interfere with toilet operation.

  • A loose trip handle can be fixed by tightening. The nut has left-hand threads, and must be turned counterclockwise to tighten (looking from inside the tank). Or, you can install a replacement trip handle.

  • Glue-in repair kit. Many replacement flush valves simply glue in place on top of the old valve seat. While several brands are available, not every type of flush can be replaced by these devices.

  • On single-piece toilet tanks–with a flush valve held in place with flanges that fit inside the opening–the flapper-ball may bind and prevent a leak-proof seal. On more common two-piece toilets, this problem does not occur.

  • Using a glue-in repair kit is quick and easy, but you must follow the manufacturer's instructions. To be sure you purchase the right kind of repair kit, take a rough drawing of the bottom of your toilet tank and flush valve to your hardware or home center store.

on Jan 16, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Have old kohler, i do not know what the inside flapper part is. However toilet will flush but tank will not fill. I can turn thhe water to the tank off and turn on again and it will fill


This indicated that there is dirt of corrosion in the flush valve assembly that get jarred loose and flushed out when turning on the supply valve below. My recommendation is replacing the flush valve assembly with a Fluidmaster flush valve. Be sure to follow the instructions when removing the old valve and installing the new one. If you need step by step instructions, please message me and I will provide them.

Dec 05, 2010 | Kohler Home

1 Answer

My toilet only leaks when flushed. It seems to be coming from the connection at the tank. The tank is not cracked and a new hose from tank to shut off valve has been installed. The toilet is only 4 years...


If you have 2-part toilet, then tank is attached to bowl with 2 bolts.
Look inside tank and you can see bolts with rubber washers located on either side of flush valve.
The 2 bolts hold tank and bowl together and between tank and bowl is a washer called the spud washer.
So spud washer could be leaking ... or 2 bolts could be leaking.

1) If bolts are leaking, there is usually dripping all the time, and drips are visible on bottoms of bolts
If spud washer is leaking, then tank could leak only when tank is flushed.

2) First thing to try is tightening nuts on the 2 bolts. Nuts may be loose. Tighten nuts a few turns, and check if toilet still leaks.

3) To fix a spud washer, you usually need a new generic one from hardware store.
Newer tanks with 1.6 gallon flush have special sized spud washer.
geno_3245_105.jpgTank is upside down and spud washer is fit over flush valve

If you cannot find new spud washer, re-use old one and smear retorseal on it during re-assembly to make sure it seals. Rectoseal is good for many home plumbing repairs. More about that in a moment.
geno_3245_104.jpg

4) To take apart tank: Disconnect supply line to tank. Empty water out of tank. Remove nuts from bolts. Lift tank off. Wash out tank with hose. Make sure there is no sand or sediment left in bottom that might clog up flush holes located inside bowl after tank is re-assembled.

5) Remove old spud washer, and put new one on. Do a google-image search for 'spud washer' if you need more photos. New spud washer fits over flush valve. That's it. And then reassemble tank.
If you want to apply rectorseal to washer, put washer on as shown in photo above. Then smear-or-gawm rectorseal over area of washer that sits on bowl. Rectorseal will make sure there is no more leaking.

Nov 24, 2010 | Bemis 1200 Slow Elongated Toilet Seat,...

1 Answer

HOW DO I CHANGE FLUSH SEAL ON KOHLER ONE PEICE TOILET


The flush seal is the rubber gasket between the tank and the bowl. You do not have one. So I am guessing you mean the wax ring on the floor?? They usually only get replaced when the toilet is changed, unless you spring a leak. Or are you talking about the flapper inside the tank that holds the water till the flush lever is pulled? Get a new flapper, if it is just the flapper you need, otherwise you will have to buy the whole thing, all these parts are available at the hardware store. I think it is held on by a couple screws in there, might just be a press fit, we don't see too many one piece toilets. And the wax ring is about $2, but the toilet has to be unbolted from the floor and water disconnected, clean off the old wax, put on the new ring, smoosh it back down and bolt it back it up. Don't for get the water line. Check to make sure you have no leaks. Hope this helps.

May 23, 2010 | Kohler K-3386-0 Rialto one-piece...

2 Answers

My toilet only a few weeks old. It flushes fine


Sorry, but the only reasonable solution is to assume that the toilet was installed incorrectly and the wax seal misplaced. Or the sewer line is clogged. I would remove the toilet and take a look-see. A plumber could use a snake to check for obstructions.

Jun 19, 2009 | Home

1 Answer

Can't remove old assembly...stuck in there


You have to remove the tank bolts on either side of the flush valve. Once you remove it, there is a tank to bowl seal that will need to be replaced. Remove the old seal and there will be a huge plastic nut that holds the flush valve to the tank. Remember to use new hardware when reassembling the toilet so that it won't leak sooner rather than later!

Apr 03, 2009 | Crane Plumbing Toilet To Go Tall...

1 Answer

Have to flush 2 or 3 times to empty toilet bowl


hello, this is a standard toilet you will need to inspect the flapper that is the rubber flap that holds the water up in the tank it works when you pull the lever it pulls the chain upward and lets the water flow if this flapper is old it may not stay up long enough for the water to flow. open the tank top and flush the toilet see if this flapper is staying up long enough and giving the tank enough time to empty if not change this rubber flapper its inexpensive part.
if this is not the reason then you need to adjust your water filler valve there should be a small screw on top of the pivoting float arm
if you have to adjust it for the water limit line inside the tank this will be the proper amount of water needed to flush once completely

also check that the chain lenth on the pull lever is not pulling the flapper down quicker than its supposed to,

try this let me know your results
hope it helps

Dec 15, 2008 | American Standard Home

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