Question about Samsung Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: I have a Samsung RS2556BB
Justy a piece of junk. The display has nothing to do with the defrost. Hold your top two buttons for 10 seconds and the displays will reset..good luck.*****
Posted on Sep 23, 2008
Evaporator fan motor inside the freezer is working? Any frost on the freezer back wall?
This is the fan inside the freezer section, it will circulate the cold air around in the freezer and blow the cold air from the freezer into the fresh food section, it also sucks the warm air from the fresh food section back into the freezer to be re-cooled.
Hot condensor coils ( under the refrigerator ) been cleaned recently?
That is part of a full model#.
Evaporator fan motor
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
SOURCE: Icemaker won't fill tray,
Was the inlet tube frozen. If so your water inlet valve on the back where the water supply comes in is probably leaking and when the water reaches the freezer it freezes, blocking the inlet tube. Replace the water inlet valve.
You can Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
Since the defrost problem wont just go away here are details about how it works.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Jun 01, 2011
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