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Why does my tv not power on?

Wife wipe down tv while it was on. We got a colourful vertical line down the left side of the screen. Then, it went black but we had audio. So tried to do a factory reset. Now it won't come on. It does two blinks: one big and one small. Samsung Model no. Ln46e550f6fxzc

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Those blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices.
http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/
http://homenol.blogspot.com/
http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
If blinks continue without any pause, the main board is faulty.
Search the site by type in the "brand name" to your device, in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts.

Posted on May 18, 2017

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SOURCE: Vertical Black line 3 inch width on Plasma Samsung 42C96HD after 2 months of use

On al the plasma tvs there are control boards on the lower part of the screen that control the vertical images. If one of the chips on one of the boards fail, have a bad connection, or no ground it will result in a thick black lne down the screen. Seeing as the tv is new I would get the warrantee repair on it. There is a possibility that there is a problem with the screen itself but more than likely its the boards.

Posted on Dec 11, 2008

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SOURCE: Vertical colour lines on whole screen

The problem is that the panel has failed. Apparently this is a common problem with LCD TV's between 18 mths and 3 yrs old. If it survives over 3 yrs it is likely to last for a few years longer. The cost of replacing the panel is more than a replacement TV!

Posted on May 26, 2009

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SOURCE: samsung plasma HPR4272 that had a 4" black vertical line on

There are at least two issues here. First you have bad buffer boards. Second Very possibly a bad X-Main bd and P-Logic bds. Have a trained Samsung tech troubleshoot the set.

Posted on Jul 17, 2009

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SOURCE: Vertical black line on the screen of my 42" Magnavox flat panel lcd tv

I wish I could post a solution, but I don't have one. I too have a Magnavox. About 6 months ago, once every 2 weeks or so, the screen would just go black- all but an inch or two on either side. Now, it seems like it's a weekly thing, sometimes every hour or two. As of tonight, it has happened twice in a matter of thirty minutes. It usually repairs itself if I turn it on and then off again but that's just not working anymore. If anyone has a solution, let me know.

Posted on Dec 20, 2009

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SOURCE: vertical line on my 46" toshiba lcd tv

The only logical solution for the problems people are having for the toshiba regza's tv's is to get into a class action law suite..., they contiue to sell tv's with defective parts and refuse to help the customer that spent large cash to find out they last if your lucky 2.5 years, they are junk and anyone with one will soon find out./.......

Posted on Jan 25, 2011

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Sony KDL43W800C 3D LED TV coloured vertical lines on the screen.


The panel is Faulty
If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Pull up older posts.
http://electro-medical.blogspot.com/

Jun 24, 2016 | Sony Televison & Video

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I have a 46" toshiba zf355. when i first turn on the tv i get vertical lines...


This is the basic guide that can be applied to most LCD flat panel TV.
By Bud Martin
First, try unplugging it from the outlet for about an hour to see if the TV will reset itself since the minute the TV is plugged into the wall, the power supply and processor will be running 24/7 and the EPROM can get corrupted by spikes and surges. Try using good quality surge suppressor to see if it will help if it happen often.
Look for burnt brown hot spots on the circuit boards, capacitors with leaking/bulging top or seals. Loose wires and connectors. Blown fuses.
Notes: We are dealing with high voltage that can kill you! so if you are not sure what you are doing, please have it fixed by the pro that has proper tools and safety equipment. Try to use GFI outlet and isolation transformer when work around the TV set and DO NOT DEFEAT THE GROUND PIN OF THE OUTLET/POWER CORD.

1) The power supply module (There are 4 regulated output voltages:- Standby 5vdc, switched 5vdc, 12~16vdc, and 24vdc).

The power supply converts the 120/230vac 50/60Hz into DC, then the high frequency (50~100kHz) switching circuits convert it back to AC but at high frequency which allows the power supply to use smaller and much lighter weight transformers (Ferrite core instead of heavy iron core), then this high frequency AC voltage is fed to the rectifier Diodes to get the DC output and filtered by DC filter capacitors that must have low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance), if general purpose electrolytic caps are use, they will fail within a year or less due to high ESR.

The power supply has Standby 5vdc (5VSB, this is a MUST have before anything else will work, when this voltage is not present, there will be no any indicator light on the front panel) which is always on the minute the TV is plugged into the AC outlet, so it is on 24/7 and that is why the power supply will fail even though you may use the a TV not very often. It will see all the voltage spikes and surges 24/7.
This 5vdc is used to power the Processor and the Infrared remote receiver module which will be waiting for the command from the remote control or from the power switch, when the Power on command is received, the Processor will send the turn on signal (3.3~5vdc) to the power supply module (PSON pin) to the switch on the main 5vdc for the rest of the logic and Tuner circuits, 12~16vdc for the sound amplifiers (mostly Class D amplifier for efficiency and small size) and for the T-CON board (interface board between the LCD panel, some T-CON uses 5vdc, and the Logic board), and 24vdc for the Back lights inverter board (if there is no 24vdc then no back light).
Common failures:
Blown main AC fuse due to shorted out Diodes, transistors.
Bad capacitors leaking or bulging tops:
Shorted Diodes, transistors in the DC output side.

Testing the power supply output with dummy load:
24vdc testing: Disconnect the wires that go to the inverter board first. You can use two #1157 (using both Lo & Hi filaments by paralleling them at the base) car light bulbs connected in series so they can handle the 24vdc, this will put light load (about 70w) on the 24vdc output, the voltage out should be steady at 24vdc (+/-2v), if not, the power supply has regulation problem.
12vdc testing: disconnect the 12vdc TV load from the power supply board and attach one #1157 (using just the Hi filament), the 12vdc output should stay at 12v (+/-1v), if not, the power supply has regulation problem.

You should see the lamps go on when the TV power switch is ON and go OFF when the TV is powered OFF.

2) Main Logic board (It has Processor, Tuner, Sound Processor, Sources selector, Power amplifiers for speakers, interface port to the T-CON board for pictures).
This logic board sends out the turn on signals (3.3~5vdc) to turn on the rest of the Power supply module (Switched main 5vdc, 12~16vdc, and 24vdc), Inverter backlight ON (if no back light on command then there is no back lights),
Logic board supplies 5 or 12vdc to T-CON board B+ pin through switched transistor if T-CON board does not get the voltage from the logic board, you will get white/gray glowing screen without pictures.
Back lights Dimming (PWM) control signal.

3) Back lights Inverter board. Its job is to provide the drive voltage for the CCFL (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp) to give white light for the screen.
This board is fed by the switched 24vdc (VBL) from the power supply module, it also get the Back lights on (BL on) control signal and the Dimming (Dim/PWM/) signal from the logic board. So for it to work, it needs 24vdc and the BL_ON signal.
Common failures:
Blown surface mounted fuses due to shorted transistors/ICs, Transformers.
Bad capacitors.

4) The T-CON (Timing Control or LCD controller) board (on the LCD panel assembly). It transfer the universal image signal of TTL and LVDS signal to specific TFT (Thin Film Transistor) LCD.
This is the interface board that talks to the Logic board and the LCD panel to produce pictures on the screen. White/gray glowing screen when it fails or not getting the voltage from the logic board (the 5 or 12vdc is supplied by switched transistor on the logic board). Notes: T-CON board is mounted under the metal cover shield.
Common failures:
Scrambled pictures, Lines, multiple pictures, color smears/blotches, rolling pictures after warm up.
Blown surface mounted fuse.
No pictures, very dark screen almost like there is no backlights.

5) LCD panel assembly to display pictures. The LCD pixels will block or unblock the back lights from the back of the panel to the front of the panel. This is the most expensive part of the TV, it will be more than the TV is worth.

As you can see, you must have all the above Voltages and signals for the TV to work properly. This may help you narrowing down the bad modules instead of buying the wrong module just to find out later that it did not solve the problem. Hope this will help you out.

Sound problem:
Let verify first to narrow down to where the problem can be. First, check the on screen sound set up menu to make sure the speakers are not set to OFF. If the setting is OK, then attach the powered PC speakers to the Audio Line out RCA jacks to see if you can get the sound there, if you do, then the problem can be in the power amp circuits, if you do not get the sound at RCA jacks, then the problem can be in the sound processor circuit. To get the sound repair, it can be from $150 and up, so if you can put up with using the good set of Powered PC speakers which actually give better sound than the tiny speakers inside the TV, I would keep using it that way, you may want to find out if the on screen sound setup will allow you to set the audio line out to be VARIABLE which means the sound output feeding the PC speakers can be varied using the TV remote control, then all you have to do is to set the PC volume to about half way up and set the TV volume to what ever you want.

Inverter board connector: you can also see the Fuse 4A/160V
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net13ca788.jpg
Power supply connector:
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net78e0d9a.jpg

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net2fc510f.jpg
T-CON board: (metal cover shielding is removed to show the bd.)
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net0b5367e.jpg
Inverter board:
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.netaf0a695.jpg
Logic board:
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net4bd108e.jpg
T-CON board is dead, no power or blown fuse on the board, screen turns WHITE, must see it in darkened room, otherwise you may mistaken it for failed backlight.
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net3a91b68.jpg
Bad T-CON board after warm up, you get lines, multiple pictures, strange colors blotches, etc.
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.netd3cf194.jpg
Bad caps (leaking/bulging tops). Make sure to replace bad cap with good cap such as PANASONIC FM or FC series , they are Low ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance) which is a must for switch mode power supply, and 105c rating. Do not use generic electrolytic caps.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.netbe827ec.jpg
Bad T-CON board or power supply problem

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net034e1db.jpg

24vdc power supply output testing using two 12vdc car lamps in series.

http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net4f2929c.jpg
Bad LCD panel, vertical 1~2 pixel wide lines
http://i.fixya.nethttp://i.fixya.net28e50c1.jpg
Failed TV and Monitors: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm

Free service manuals: www.elektrotanya.com

on Jan 15, 2011 | Sony BRAVIA KDL-40S2010 40 in. LCD...

1 Answer

How do I fix my Samsung LN52A580 TV as the right half of the screen is totally black (even thought I get sound and picture on the left hand of the screen)?


Samsung HL-R6178W DLP TV half of screen goes black [Solved] - HDTV ...

www.tomsguide.com/forum/54431-4-samsung-r6178w-half-screen-black

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Samsung HL-R6178W DLP HDTV I just bought this tv used as is. Every once in a while, the right side of the screen goes black on all inputs. I have read ... As for the 1000 dollar price tag, that's totally bonkers. I found a web site ...Missing: ln52a580

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CNETI have a 4 year old 67" Samsung DLP which has worked pretty well other than having... Over the past 6 months it's developed a new behavior where the right half of the screen goes completely black and stays that way until I power cycle the tv.Missing: ln52a580

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Vertical scan section circuit fault. Check and replace damaged component/s at its vertical scan output section circuit. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. Pull up older posts. Check the site in 'Mosaic' view. It will make search easy. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/

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1 Answer

Took lg plasma tv off wall when i put it back there is a fine vertical line which changes colour


Hello,

IF YOU HAVE A SOLID BLACK LINE RUNNING VERTICALLY THEN YOU HAVE A FAULTY MATRIX INVERTER. IF CENTRAL THE MAIN VERTICAL INVERTER NEEDS CHANGED. LEFT = LEFT VERTICAL INVERTER RIGHT=RIGHT.........

ANOTHER WAY TO GET THIS FAULT IS WORN OR DAMAGED RIBBON/PLASTIC GOING FROM THE SCREEN MATRIX TO THE INVERTER

HOPE THIS WILL HELP IN SOLVING THE PROBLEM.....

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1 Answer

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Hello,

IF YOU HAVE A SOLID BLACK LINE RUNNING VERTICALLY THEN YOU HAVE A FAULTY MATRIX INVERTER. IF CENTRAL THE MAIN VERTICAL INVERTER NEEDS CHANGED. LEFT = LEFT VERTICAL INVERTER RIGHT=RIGHT.........

ANOTHER WAY TO GET THIS FAULT IS WORN OR DAMAGED RIBBON/PLASTIC GOING FROM THE SCREEN MATRIX TO THE INVERTER
HOPE THIS WILL HELP TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM.....

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2 Answers

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