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On my suburban sw10de water heater the gas and electric work intermittently. I have replaced both of the hi-temp/thermostats and had the module board checked, it's supposed to be OK.

Could the module board be OK when checked and then not OK?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: electric water heater will not stay on

sounds like the electrical thermostat is defective and is being over ridden by the overheat safety stat.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 2976 Answers

SOURCE: ECO failure. Replaced the gas control thermostat & vapor sensor

It sounds like your gas/air mixture needs to be adjusted. The flame should have just the slightest amount of white, at the very tip. The rest should be evenly blue. There is an air vent adjustment in the line to the burner, right after the gas input.

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

  • 302 Answers

SOURCE: My electric water heater keeps tripping the high

the element is shorted out causing this issue.
I have had that happen to me before.
or there is a water leak dripping down on it and causing it to trip the reset switch.

Posted on Nov 14, 2010

  • 185 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem 83xr52-2 50 gal residential water heater.

You can open the top up again. I would not turn the temp higher than 130 degrees, maximum. However, there should be above the thermostat a red button. This is where the power wires connect to the thermostats and heating elements. Sometimes this button needs to be reset, press it and discern if you hear a click sound. This means that the high temperature safety switch has tripped open and you had to manually "reset" it. There are two thermostats by the way. The water heater usually works this way. There are two thermostats and two heaters. The upper tank heater turns on first and it heats the top half of the tank. Then when the thermostat above is satisfied it then allows the bottom heater to come on and heat the bottom half of the tank. You might want to set the bottom heater thermostat as well. This is made this way because it is actually faster and more efficient to heat the top half first and the bottom half secondly. Try this first with the reset button. We could check voltages, but that requires a level of knowledge and safety that I am not sure that you are comfortable with. Pictures of the upper and lower thermostats and connections will help if the "reset" does not do the trick. By the way, not meaning or implying anything, but did you move the thermostat in the right direction? Sometimes the dials can be confusing.

Posted on Nov 28, 2010

SOURCE: our water heater is doing

1) You have given good diagnostic information ... except brand and model number of water heater are missing.
Locate this information on label on side of tank.

2) 2 flashes for high temperature indicate you have Whirlpool or Craftmaster Energy Smart.
You have dual element 240V tank-type electric water heater with electronic control board and temperatures sensors.
Sensors can be ordered separately for $30 each.
Sensors seem like best suspect since elements test out and you have new control board.

3) Did you test elements for short to ground through center of element?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

4) Energy smart requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker. If wire or breaker are undersized, then I would expect chronic problems with electronics. I believe the requirement is so element draw or other factors don't starve electronic control board.

5) How it works: Energy smart is non-simultaneous water heater. Non-simultaneous means upper element turns on first. When upper temperature sensor is satisfied, control board cuts power to upper element and sends power to lower temperature sensor and element. So both elements are never ON at same time. Lower element runs until lower temperature sensor is satisfied. I do not know decision tree for how microchip processes the information.

6) I have examined this water heater and read the manual. I wrote following page, but have not conducted electrical testing on unit simply because it is controlled by micro-chip.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

7) Sample Energy Smart manual:
Manual does not show how to test temperature sensors, but manufacturer might have more information. Manufacturer might have information how changing meter can affect their electronics.
I would guess undersized wiring would have greater impact than electricity turning off for 1 minute.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Whirlpool-energy-smart-electric-manual.pdf
Whirlpool 1-877-817-6750

8) 4500 Watt elements should test 12.3 ohms, so your elements check out fine.
Be sure to test for short to ground by setting multimeter to ohms, remove wires from element, and test each screw to bare metal part of heater and to metal base of element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/ohm-reading-for-emements.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

9) The water heater industry changes very fast, so current manual is best place to start troubleshooting.
If you have different brand than shown above, then open following link to identify manufacturer's website:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html
Add a comment if you need help finding information

10) Post question on professional water heater forum for more eyes on same question:
http://www.thetankatwaterheaterrescue.com/forums/forum3/

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

Posted on Feb 13, 2011

Testimonial: "Thanks, sorry about the ommision, I thought I was on a page for the whirlpool ee3j50rd045v and that was understood in my post. Thanks again for such "

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Unknown product: Fixya truncates questions so we cannot see what people want. Probably paid answers are different.
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http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent
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