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I want to know the beam size from removing a load bearing wall with roof trusses and tile roof

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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dltatsjc
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SOURCE: Supporting a load bearing wall

The floor/roof loads above will be a bigger unknown than the ceiling itself. The wall MAY be replacable with properly sized beam/column combinations but you will need to have a design professional look for adauate footing size, calculate floor loads (and roof loads if any), and size the beam/column system to support ALL of the loads now carried by the wall. If you have access to the origional floor and roof framing plans they will be a great help, otherwise someone will need to do some investigating to make thoes design judgements.
In 23 years working as a building inspector I'v seen way too many structural problems caused by inadaquate beam installations, Its worth the time and money to do it right.
Good Luck.

Posted on Nov 09, 2009

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SOURCE: i have a 11' ceiling

I believe the best way is to install a10" Tube inside a 12" Tube with the resultant 2" gap, and Spacers and nuts & Bolts between them, and these are painted with heat resistant paint, in the color of your choice, however usually they are colored, Black. The tube is made long enough so that it is extending at least 18" inside and outside the roof & cladding, it must be Flashed around, the Inside & the Outside. A sheet metal cone may be added outside to stop ingress of foreign materials.
The Chimney then passes up the middle between the cylinders.

Posted on Dec 15, 2010

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Posted on Oct 17, 2012

ka4iup
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SOURCE: How i change 2 by 6 beam in load bearing wall? I want to put timber wood back in place of loD bearing? What is the load on wall?

The load on the wall is determined by the type of structure and what is above the load beam. Instead of trying to replace the load bearing element, would it not be easier to cover the existing beam with wood as sheathing to give the rustic appearance you are looking for?

You can specify the thickness and finish, and when joined properly it will look fine. This will keep you from having to jack and support the adjoining ceilings on both sides, and avoid inviting possible further Damage to the structure.

It can be done, but it will not be cheap or easy.

Posted on Mar 24, 2015

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Which is a structural form with both tension and compression elements ?


That'd be Technical Glove talk i reckon.
Possibly the Fabric type/durability perhaps??
Good luck with it.
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Jul 10, 2015 | Shelby NFPA Koala-Tanned Structure...

1 Answer

How i change 2 by 6 beam in load bearing wall? I want to put timber wood back in place of loD bearing? What is the load on wall?


The load on the wall is determined by the type of structure and what is above the load beam. Instead of trying to replace the load bearing element, would it not be easier to cover the existing beam with wood as sheathing to give the rustic appearance you are looking for?

You can specify the thickness and finish, and when joined properly it will look fine. This will keep you from having to jack and support the adjoining ceilings on both sides, and avoid inviting possible further Damage to the structure.

It can be done, but it will not be cheap or easy.

Mar 24, 2015 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The tiles behind my wall hung geberit tiles are cracking and the toilet seems to be moving a little. Ian afraid it is going to pull out of the wall. It has been there for 10 years but is a spare washroom...


Never herd of wall tiles cracking. If you have access to the underside of the bathroom (via basement ceiling), you may want to check of the wall(s) has proper support for load or a non-supported floor plywood joint may have been installed the wrong way/not supported properly. You should be able to see the nails coming through the floor plywood where the wall(s) is located above. You may have to add blocking and/or brace(s) with joist hangers for support as required. Interior wall studs may also been spaced at 24"c/c instead of 16"c/c if the wall tiles were not installed by the builder not accounting for heavier than normal load.

If by chance the washroom is in the basement::
  • Non-load bearing walls (interior non-loading will be supported by the slab.
  • Load bearing walls will be supported by footing foundations
As for your toilet moving: the wax gasket may need replacing if not seated properly (rocking). If it just seems a bit loose, try to just tighten the flange bolts on both sides of the bottom of the toilet after removing caps. If no spacers are present between the bolts and the ceramic, they need to be there to not crack the base or reduce the chance of over-tightening that would do the same. There may be water coming from a shower that's close by or from the sweating of the tank in the humid summer months.

If the ceiling are closed for access below, you have the choice of tackling the job from within the bathroom by removing the some of the plywood floor to inspect the problem OR by the ceiling below. I would should the ceiling below if it was me.

Good Luck!

Mar 01, 2015 | Home

2 Answers

How to repair crack between ceiling and wall


Hi simple way is to use some expansion foam from hardware shop squirt it in along the crack it will expand a good bit so no to much cut over spill back when dry then skim with plaster

Feb 05, 2014 | Drywall

1 Answer

What is the best roof support system for a 2 car garage


Steel beams will need to be used if you want open space with no poles. Laminated beams can also be used but support poles will have to be added. Build a truss roof over top and do away with the flat roof.

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1 Answer

I am replacing my sink, medicine cabinet and adding a small cabinet below the sink. I need to know how to remove the old and install the new.


The task you are embarking on is a great DYI project. But, be forewarned, it can get tricky. First, make sure the new sink will fit in the space of the old sink. If not do you have enough space for the new sink to fit securely against the wall? Next, remove the cabinet. There should be about four screws. You may also have to use a razor to cut calking from around the outside of the cabinet. Sometimes it's used to fill-in gaps between the tile and cabinet. Remove the cabinet. If the cabinet is setting in the wall, make sure you check and see where the support beams are located. If you are not putting in another wall cabinet, then you will have to know what kind of wall you have. Sheet rock, no problem. Plaster requires a bit more work. Measure the hole, and then you will need chicken wire, lime, plaster, paint, and matching tile. Fasten the wire to beams in the wall. The wire will hold the plaster in place. Let dry, sand smooth then paint. If you have sheet rock walls measure the hole cut the sheet rock to fit. Fasten it to the beams, use plaster or Spackle to cover the holes from the screws. You will need sheet rock tape to hide the space between the existing wall and the sheet rock patch. Smooth on cover the tape with Spackle, smooth by sanding.


To remove the sink: first, turn off the main water supply. Get a pipe wrench and remove any connections. If you're not familiar with plumbing you may want to get a plumber to attach the connections.


Putting a cabinet under the sink is the easy part. Make sure you have the right size cabinet. Get a leveler; make sure the sink and cabinet are level. Depending on your walls, you can just screw the cabinet to the wall. If they are plaster walls you will need wall anchors. That should do it. Enjoy

Feb 23, 2013 | Plumbing

1 Answer

I want to frame a closet do I just need 2by4's or should I use 2by6's


Framing lumber for interior non-load bearing walls is typically 2x4 in house construction. Even load bearing interior walls often only require 2x4 framing, but could require 2x6 framing depending on the load they carry(the load is how much weight of the roof or upper floors is being supported by the wall). Sometimes 2x6 framing is used for interior walls that have plumbing drain pipes to make it easier to fit them, likewise if the interior wall has heat/air ducting in it. Another reason to use 2x6 is to allow better sound proofing or higher insulation rating. If none of the special cases I've cited apply, then 2x4 is what I would use to frame a closet.

Feb 18, 2011 | RTO M-D Building Products Carpentry &...

2 Answers

How do you remove wall tiles


Follow following steps -

1.Decide where to remove the grout
2. Scrape the grout away with a utility knife
3.Try a rotary grinder instead.
4.Remove grout until the spacer lugs are visible.
5.Chisel tiles away from the wall.
6.Break the tile if necessary.


If the tiles are grouted, you will have to clear the grout away first. There are inexpensive tools designed specifically for grout removal. After removing the grout, use a small pry bar or a similar tool to pry the tiles away from the wall. Most likely, though, if the tiles were installed onto drywall, the drywall will be damaged during removal. Fortunately, drywall is relatively easy to replace. Once the drywall surface is ready, new tiles can be attached with tile adhesive or mastic. Regrout and seal the tile around the new tiles. *If the new tiles are natural stone they will be very porous and will need to be sealed and dry BEFORE installation.
Perbaiki lantai teraso Teraso cor di tempat Terazo and mosaic tile
logo-new-0qszb2ew32lipdsibxxpkimr-3-0.jpg

Sep 14, 2010 | YouTube Videos

1 Answer

Supporting a load bearing wall


The floor/roof loads above will be a bigger unknown than the ceiling itself. The wall MAY be replacable with properly sized beam/column combinations but you will need to have a design professional look for adauate footing size, calculate floor loads (and roof loads if any), and size the beam/column system to support ALL of the loads now carried by the wall. If you have access to the origional floor and roof framing plans they will be a great help, otherwise someone will need to do some investigating to make thoes design judgements.
In 23 years working as a building inspector I'v seen way too many structural problems caused by inadaquate beam installations, Its worth the time and money to do it right.
Good Luck.

Nov 09, 2009 | Measuring Tools & Sensors

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