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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Supporting a load bearing wall
The floor/roof loads above will be a bigger unknown than the ceiling itself. The wall MAY be replacable with properly sized beam/column combinations but you will need to have a design professional look for adauate footing size, calculate floor loads (and roof loads if any), and size the beam/column system to support ALL of the loads now carried by the wall. If you have access to the origional floor and roof framing plans they will be a great help, otherwise someone will need to do some investigating to make thoes design judgements.
In 23 years working as a building inspector I'v seen way too many structural problems caused by inadaquate beam installations, Its worth the time and money to do it right.
Posted on Nov 09, 2009
SOURCE: i have a 11' ceiling
I believe the best way is to install a10" Tube inside a 12" Tube with the resultant 2" gap, and Spacers and nuts & Bolts between them, and these are painted with heat resistant paint, in the color of your choice, however usually they are colored, Black. The tube is made long enough so that it is extending at least 18" inside and outside the roof & cladding, it must be Flashed around, the Inside & the Outside. A sheet metal cone may be added outside to stop ingress of foreign materials.
The Chimney then passes up the middle between the cylinders.
Posted on Dec 15, 2010
of the discolouration I see has got nothing to do with the metal, which
is usually a fairly inert aluminium covered in aluminium oxide. What
does seem to happen quite a lot is birds sit on the aerials and just do
what comes naturally - leaving behind a bit of a stain. I spent a few
years at sea and saw an albatross roost on a rotating radar aerial
overnight. The next morning the deck underneath was a mess of
semi-digested fish, a huge amount for just one bird! Here you will get
more information about aerials.
Most of the discolouration I see has got nothing to do with the metal, which is usually a fairly inert aluminium covered in aluminium oxide. What does seem to happen quite a lot is birds sit on the aerials and just do what comes naturally - leaving behind a bit of a stain. I spent a few years at sea and saw an albatross roost on a rotating radar aerial overnight. The next morning the deck underneath was a mess of semi-digested fish, a huge amount for just one bird! Here you will get more information about aerials.
Posted on Oct 17, 2012
The load on the wall is determined by the type of structure and what is above the load beam. Instead of trying to replace the load bearing element, would it not be easier to cover the existing beam with wood as sheathing to give the rustic appearance you are looking for?
You can specify the thickness and finish, and when joined properly it will look fine. This will keep you from having to jack and support the adjoining ceilings on both sides, and avoid inviting possible further Damage to the structure.
It can be done, but it will not be cheap or easy.
Posted on Mar 24, 2015
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The task you are embarking on is a great DYI project. But, be forewarned, it can get tricky. First, make sure the new sink will fit in the space of the old sink. If not do you have enough space for the new sink to fit securely against the wall? Next, remove the cabinet. There should be about four screws. You may also have to use a razor to cut calking from around the outside of the cabinet. Sometimes it's used to fill-in gaps between the tile and cabinet. Remove the cabinet. If the cabinet is setting in the wall, make sure you check and see where the support beams are located. If you are not putting in another wall cabinet, then you will have to know what kind of wall you have. Sheet rock, no problem. Plaster requires a bit more work. Measure the hole, and then you will need chicken wire, lime, plaster, paint, and matching tile. Fasten the wire to beams in the wall. The wire will hold the plaster in place. Let dry, sand smooth then paint. If you have sheet rock walls measure the hole cut the sheet rock to fit. Fasten it to the beams, use plaster or Spackle to cover the holes from the screws. You will need sheet rock tape to hide the space between the existing wall and the sheet rock patch. Smooth on cover the tape with Spackle, smooth by sanding.
To remove the sink: first, turn off the main water supply. Get a pipe wrench and remove any connections. If you're not familiar with plumbing you may want to get a plumber to attach the connections.
Putting a cabinet under the sink is the easy part. Make sure you have the right size cabinet. Get a leveler; make sure the sink and cabinet are level. Depending on your walls, you can just screw the cabinet to the wall. If they are plaster walls you will need wall anchors. That should do it. Enjoy
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