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HOW CAN I CHECK THIS OUT Defective high limit sensor WILL IT BE OPEN OR CLOSED IF IT IS BAD

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It is a dangerous assumption to conclude that a "defective" sensor will be open or closed, because third and fourth possibilities exist. The 3rd possibility is that there is a resistive connection in the sensor, and the 4th possibility is that there is an intermittent connection which comes and goes, or a combination of those last two, meaning that the resistance can change wildly ... as you would expect with a cracked resistor!

Posted on May 15, 2017

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Try holding the Start Button for more than 3 seconds.
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There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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There are several possible causes of this problem, aside from a loose or damaged wire, which is uncommon. The cause in about 95% of the cases is a thermopile that has gone bad. The thermopile is the small cylinder that is attached to the pilot assembly where part of the pilot flame can contact it. It has a cable or wire going to the gas valve, high limit switch, or both. When hot enough, it produces and electrical current that keep the pilot on and allows the main gas valve to open. This is not hard to replace in most gas fryers and not too expensive. This often starts as an intermittent problem. The second possible cause is a defective high limit. The high limit is a small rectangular device with wires going to the gas valve and a tiny stainless tube that goes through the bottom of the kettle to a sensor bulb, like the thermostat has. These are usually self resetting, but may have a small red reset button. If present check the reset. If no reset, jump the two wires and see if the fryer will now light. If so, the high limit is defective, assuming the fryer is not over temperature. If defective, replace. Do not operate the fryer in this condition as there is no over temperature protection. The next cause is if the oil is too hot, in which case the high limit will shut off both the main burner and the pilot. The pilot cannot be relit until the fryer cools down and the high limit resets. If the oil is too hot, usually over 425F, replace the thermostat. If the high limit trips when the oil is in the normal operating range, replace the high limit. The final cause is a bad gas valve. This is not too common, but the gas valve is expensive and a bit difficult to replace. Check all of the other causes first.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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The first thing I would check would be your high limit thermostat. It is located near the heater and is wired in series with the heater. The contacts in a high limit thermostat remain closed at temperatures below 250 degrees. The contacts will open and interrupt the circuit to the heater when the operating thermostat, thermistor or electronic control fails to cycle properly. The most common condition that causes the high limit thermostat to operate are vent restrictions, blower failure or a defective operating thermostat or thermistor.
If those are good, then,

Check your dryer heater. With both heater power terminals disconnected you can check for resistance. The typical dryer heater resistance is around 20 Ohms.
If you can not read resistance on the dryer heater then it is an open circuit and needs replaced. Also if your meter indicated an electrical path between either of the heater terminals to the heater frame (ground) then it’s bad. The heater must be isolated from its mounting frame.



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