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Deere 165 riding mower drained hydro oil now wont accept as much as took out how much should hold also had rear tires free wheeling started and a few bubbles came up but no turning die hard deere fan

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: John Deere riding mower SRX95 - Steering wheel is sticking

You need to replace your Ball Joints! On the front steering rods There are two sometimes three !

Posted on May 09, 2009

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SOURCE: I have a John Deere Riding lawn mower which starts

Hello roobar2009:

>>From your Description it Sounds like a Carburetor Problem, a Bad Fuel Filter or Bad Gas.
>>If you have Changed the Filter and the Gas and the Problem is Still happening, then
>>The Following is a Simple Way to make Sure the Engine is Getting Gas from the Carburetor to Run.
>>If the Engine Starts and Quits, then Check the Carburetor Solenoid.
>>If the Carburetor Solenoid is Good or has been Removed and the Engine will Start and Quit when the Gas is Poured into the Carburetor Throat, then Soak and Clean the Carburetor.
>>The Following is a Basic File I Made for Cleaning Carburetors. Any Input is Appreciated. Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time.
>>Spray Cleaners Remove this Varnish in Layers, so Soaking is the Only Sure Way to Remove ALL this Varnish.
>>I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning.
>>You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable), Needle Valve.
Remove Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed.
>>If you are Able to Remove and Disassemble the Carburetor and Keep the Gaskets Intact, then Usually these Gaskets can be Reused. The Only Parts you May Need to Replace is the Needle Valve.
>>The Float Needle Usually is Not Replaced Unless it is Not Operating Properly (the gas flow not shutting off and the carburetor is Flooding). Do Not Remove the Main Nozzle. This is a Pressed Fit and Removal is Not Required for Cleaning. Soaking and Blowing the Carburetor Out After Soaking will Clean the Nozzle.
>>Once Disassembled, then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts.
>>Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air.
>>***(Do Not Use High Pressure Air for the Zama Carburetors, they have Check Valves for the Primer and these are Usually Blown Out of the Carburetor if Not Careful. Allow the Zama Carburetor to Set on a Drip Pan and Dry)***.
>>****All the Carburetor Adjustments are the Same for Lawn Mower and Trimmers. There are Several Location for the Air Mixture Screws. The Idle Air Mixture Screws are Usually Located at the Top of the Carburetor Bowl and the Top of the Carburetor Body.****
>>If the Main Air and Idle Air Mixture Screws are Side by Side on the Side of the Carburetor, then the Idle Air is Nearest the Engine. The Main Jet Air Mixture Screw is Located in the Bottom of the Carburetor Bowl or Beside the Idle Air Screw on the Side of the Carburetor Body.
>>Some of the Older Model Carburetors have the Main Jet Mixture Screw Straight in from the Top of the Carburetor Body (this is Rare anymore). If you have Cleaned the Carburetor (Disassembled and Soaked Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air and Install a New Kit if Required. Now Setting the Air Mixture Screws:
>>****Turn the Idle Air and Main Air Mixture Screws In Until SNUG **Do Not Jam** Then Reverse Both Screws 1 1/2 Turns. Holding the Throttle Full Open, Start the Engine. Turn the Main Air Mixture Screw Clockwise Until Proper Revs are Obtained. Occasionally you May have to Turn this Counter Clockwise to Achieve the Proper Revs. Now Allow the Engine to Idle. Set the Engine Idle Screw (Not Idle Air) so the Engine will Stay Running if Required. Now Set the Idle Air Mixture Screw so there is No Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle. Reset the Engine Idle if Required.****
>>If This Carburetor has a Single Air Adjustment (Except Tank Mounted 9200 and 100900 Engine Model Carburetors), Use the Section Above that Pertains to Full Throttle RPM Air Mixture Screw and then Adjust the Screw if Required to Eliminate Any Hesitation when Throttling from Idle to Full Throttle.
>>For the 9200 Model Tank Mounted Carburetor Adjust the Air Mixture Screw Full In, then Reverse 1 1/2 Turns. Set the Throttle Lever to Full Throttle and Start the Engine.
>>Now Carefully Use 1 Finger and Open the Throttle Plate and Over Rev the Engine Slightly. If the Engine Over Revs and Does Not Struggle to Over Rev, then the Carburetor is Set. If the Engine Struggles to Over Rev, then Turn the Adjustment Screw In 1/4 Turn and Repeat the Over Rev Test.
>>If you Adjust to 1/2 Turns In and the Engine Still Struggles to Over Rev, then Return the Adjustment Screw to 1 1/2 Turns Out from Snug and Turn the Screw Out 1/4 Turn. Do the Over Rev Test. Continue this Process Until you have the Engine Over Revving without Struggle.
>>By Adjusting the Carburetor on this Style Carburetor Until the Engine Over Revs without Struggle, you have Adjusted the Air Mixture to the Best Possible Setting.
>>This file was Intended to Give you the Basic Carburetor Cleaning Instructions and May Not Reflect Your Carburetor Components.
>>If you have Questions, Please Ask. The links above Provide Good Directions on Cleaning the Carburetor. Make sure you use an Compressed Air to Blow through all the Carburetor Passages to make sure they are Clear.
>>1- http://www.repairfaq.org/samnew/lmfaq/lmclctc.htm
>>2- http://www.cpdonline.com/692509.pdf .
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If I Missed Something or you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Posted on May 17, 2009

panilling9
  • 284 Answers

SOURCE: Need to remove rear wheels to replace tires on MTD riding mower.

most likely rust has taken over
find some liquid wrench or pb blaster and spray the axles liberally and let it penetrate the axles and wheel hubs where the axle goes through.
use a 2x4 and a hammer to tap against the wheel hub to try to move it down the axle then tap in back on to try to free it up as the penetrating oil works in, spin the wheel and tap in different areas of it
the worst case cenario would be to use a torch and heat the axle and hub up and drive it off, but it sounds as though you are moving it some and with some patience they eventually should come off
when you put them back be sure to coat the axle with some grease and do not forget to reinstall the key stock in each wheel, if they have it
the bolt in the center of the axle is all you need to remove and note where the washers came from and where they go back.

hope this helps you some

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: How to install a drive belt on a john deere 175

Photos and description available at
http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/deere_175_drive_belt.asp

Posted on Sep 04, 2009

mickey813
  • 472 Answers

SOURCE: John Deere 160 riding mower. When I try to engage

CK THE SEAT SWICH OR THE BRAKE SWICH ONE OFEM IS BAD

Posted on Oct 02, 2009

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1 Answer

I took the left rear tire off my John Deere lawn tractor and when I put it back on the tire won't engage to run


on some of the mowers there is a slot on the axle and on the inside of the rim that a metal key goes in. you line up the two slots and put this key in and then tighten the wheel. it locks the rim to the axle. i am guessing it must have fallen out when you took the tire off. find it and put it back in you should be good to go.

Apr 22, 2016 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

I have a John Deere hydro 165, Kawasaki 12.5 ,what oil does it use?


Most all Engines used in warm climate such as mowers etc.. Use standard weight SAE 30 but colder climates machines such as snow blowers etc. use any good quality mili viscosity oils 10-30 is an all around one..good luck a little higher such as 10-40 for high hours used machines..good luck..

Aug 25, 2015 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

Where is the oil drain plug on the sx75 John Deere riding mower


It is not a plug, it is a drain petcock (nozzle) you will need about 2 feet of hose that you slip over the nozzle, then turn the Knurled Knob (brass ?) behind the drivers side rear tire (maybe the passengers side rear tire) It will probably have oil on it and may not be that visible, it is right at the bottom of the engine. Not that fun...but it is easy.

Apr 16, 2015 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

RELEASE SWITCH ON REAR OF RIDING TRACTOR.


Double check the drive axle keyway and make sure key is still in there. Without it the drive axle just spins without driving either wheel.
Also if hydro static make sure the neutral lever is re-engaged. Operators sometimes put these in neutral and then forget to put them back when they to use the mower.

Nov 10, 2014 | Garden

1 Answer

Hydro-tranmission want engage


i have seen many times when the wheel was removed you lost the square key that locks the wheel to the axle and is covered by the clip that holds the wheel on the axle

Sep 01, 2012 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

Change rear tire on john deere lawn tractor lt-150


i guess the wheels are stuck you will damage the wheels and axle trying to get them off just pop the beads and change it right on the mower

Apr 16, 2012 | John Deere Garden

2 Answers

What are the basic maintenance tips needed to maintain my lawn tractor L145 22 HP, 42"? Ex: What needs to be greased, when do I change the oil ect? Thanks Larry


Engine oil should be changed every 50 hours of use or annually, whichever occurs first. The oil should be a 10W-30 and it takes about 1.5 quarts with filter change. Check/clean the air filter every time the oil is changed. After cleaning the filter, hold a light to the filter to see of there is light coming through. If the light is very faint or none at all change the filter. Spark plugs can be changed every other oil change. The front axle should be greased every service, there is a grease fitting on each side of the axle towards the top of the spindle, by the wheel. There is also a grease fitting on each blade spindle. They are not easy to grease without taking the belt shields off. Also check the bearings on the deck by grabbing the pulleys and try to rock side to side. Check the belts for cracks, and make sure the tire pressure is set right. If your tire pressure is off the mower will cut uneven. I usually set tire pressure 10psi for the rears and 12 psi for the front. Hope this is what you were looking for, Daniel.

Sep 05, 2011 | John Deere 22HP Hydrostatic 42" Riding...

2 Answers

What kind of lubricant should I use in the transmission of a John Deere 165 Hydro?


I grew up with John Deere's and worked at a shop assembling Cub Cadet's way back when.

From all the threads I have read..that's an Eaton Transmission.

You can actually use a good SAE 30w motor oil in it. . some folks use a 5-20W or even Dex/Merc universal AT..but the general consensus is a decent 30W motor oil. Cheap and easy to find.

This is not an actual hydraulic motor, so any of these oils will work. Not to forget JD has HyGuard.. which is similar to the dex. Keep it simple and Stick to the SAE 30W..

Clean tranny off to prevent debris from entering the case.
Remove fill plug and Drain plug
Drain when warm
Replace drain plug
Remove vent plug
Fill until oil appears at vent hole
Rotate axle to remove trapped air
Check fill level
Replace vent plug and fill plug

GO go go
Mow mow mow

Best of luck

May 01, 2011 | John Deere Garden

2 Answers

John deere stx38 wont move transmission locked up?


Engine OFF, raise drive wheels and check if transmission is locked

Jul 14, 2009 | John Deere Garden

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