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How do i lite the OVEN pilot lite on the jenn air oven

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Gigatech
  • 259 Answers

SOURCE: Jenn-Air WW30430W double oven flashing F7 and beeping

It seems you have a stuck button. Here is a list of fault codes:

JENN AIR
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes
Failure
Code
Condition Check/Repair F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (this problem is usually the touch pad) F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) F2 Oven too hot Replace relay board (if present) or oven temperature sensor F3 or F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F6 Missing AC signal Check for proper voltage F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or attempt to un-stick button F8 Analog/Digital supervisory Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F9 Door latch supervisory Check door lock circuit or replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)

Posted on Dec 09, 2007

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SOURCE: jenn air combo wall oven/microwave

Bend over, pull down pants. They Got you....

Posted on Apr 26, 2008

SOURCE: Jenn Air oven Model D156 won't turn on

get a new range

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: oven door locked - jenn air

My Jenn-Air double oven locked after a clean cycle. My model (JJW8630) has a series of slots cut in the top of the door. Take a piece of stiff wire, coat hanger, and bend a right angle about 1/2 inch at the end, feed the wire into the 3rd or 4th slot from the center on the right hand side. Turn the wire so that the bent piece is on the top and push the wire so it engages the lever which latches the door shut, it is spring loaded and moves easily.

Once the door was opened, I removed the temperature sensor, held by 2 screws, from the top of the oven and eased the wire out to get to the connector. The faulty sensor was reading 4.2 k, at room temperature it should be just over 1k, while waiting for a new sensor to arrive I stuck in a 1k resistor, ex Radio Shack, so the fan stops running and the door latch can be retracted by closing the oven door, or press the switch on the top right of the door opening.

My replacement part was ordered on line for less than 1/2 the official quoted price.

Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Display on my Jenn-Air electric wall oven is very dim

douglas9101,
I had the same problem and found the solution on-line.
Replace the C3 capacitor on the dispaly module. (100 UF, 35 volt, high temperature)
The local Jenn Air dealer wanted $211 for a new display module.
I purchased a Cap from a local electronics supply store for 79cents.
The only problem is that you need to have a soldering pencil/iron, a solder ******/wick and a small amount of solder.

Steps I had to take on my oven:
- Flip the AC breaker supplying the oven to off to be save
- remove 3 screws on top and 4 on the bottom of the display panel
- gently pull out the display panel and unplug the 2 cables to the display
- unclip the ribbon cable to the display module
- unclip the module itself by pushing on the 2 black tabs
- locate C3
- unsolder C3 and replace with new Cap- keeping the polarity strip the same as theh old Cap
- reasemble in reverse order.

It took me all of 20 minutes. It may sound difficult but is very easy if you have the tools
Good Luck
K

Posted on Jun 15, 2009

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

most new oven's, gas or electric you do not lite....you may have a defective unit....
if its real old, you oven knob should say pilot...if not you have a newer oven...

then you have a defective pilot system

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My Jenn Air 1995 wall oven was working fine until one day the oven and the oven gas burner did not turn ON. I had electricty (make sure you did not trip a breaker) since my front panel LCD and clock was OK. I had a good gas supply.

My oven is an "pilot-less" oven, it uses an electric igniter. Although the "ignitor" was "glowing red hot", the problem is that the gas valve depend on a certain amount of current. If you have a 120V house system, I think the valve needs 3.3 to 3.6 amps to turn on. The current flows through the igniter and then through the valve, as in a same path, like water. So you need an AMP meter to check proper current flow. I read 2.4 amps. I replaced the "glowing red hot" igniter with a new one, Vo"la it was fixed.

Bottom line if you have the oven plugged in OK and you see some life (clock), and you have the gas turned on, most likely the igniter is bad. Second choice would be the oven's thermostat (the temp knob that you turn, say to 350F), or it could be the gas valve.

All three are in same current circuit. The igniter gets the most abuse so I would start there first -good luck!

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