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Re: Heating element comes on for a second and shuts off
Its been awhile that I worked on one but I believe one of those thermostat should be open. try the thermostat on your element. Pull wire off and put electric tape on it to make sure it doesnt touch anything. Then try it.
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Clothes dryers today have many safeguards built in to prevent overheating and fires.
First , I'll tell you the most likely cause of the problem, then move on to the other causes.
Most likely is a failed heating element.
You can check this by removing the back of the machine, and take a multi-meter or an ohm meter and test the heating element for continuity, (with the wires removed from it.)
Next most common is a blown fuse or an overheated thermostat. (There may be as many as 5 on your machine)
If you discover either the fuse or one of the thermostats has failed, you should check further to be sure all the vent pipes are clear, both inside the machine and from the machine to the outside air.
Each of these need to be checked with the meter, just like you did with the heating element.
Unplug the wires, and check for continuity.
Least common is a broken or burnt wire.
The element, the fuse, and the thermostats are available from an appliance parts store, or from "Sears Parts Direct" online.
God bless your efforts.
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)
Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.
Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,
Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.
Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
YOU WILL HAVE TO CHECK THE THERMOSTATS WITH A MULTI METER FOR CONTINUITY. U CAN GET CHEAP METERS FOR LIKE 5 BUCKS AT SOME HARDWARE STORES. CHECK THE THERMAL CUT OFF NOT THERMAL SHUT OFF, THE HI LIMIT AND THE CYCLING THERMOSTAT, THEN CHECK UR HEATING ELEMENT. SOMETIMES A CLOGGED AND DIRTY VENTING LINE AND LINT BASKET WILL HINDER IT FROM HEATING TOO.
1)Locate the upper heating element
in the top access. The heating element is above the thermostat, and all
you will see is a round disc with two wires attaching to the disk.
2)Set your ohm meter to the X1 or
RX 1 scale to measure the continuity of the heating element. Touch each
of the ohm meter probes to each of the terminal screws on the heating
element. A positive reading indicates a good element. If there is no
reading, the element is faulty.
3)Test for a possible short in the
heating element with the ohm meter. Touch one ohm meter probe to one of
the heating element terminals. Touch the other ohm meter probe to the
bracket that secures the heating element. If you get a reading of zero,
the element is good. If there is any positive reading on the scale, the
element is grounding itself and will require replacement.
4)Test the lower heating element exactly as the upper heating element.
5)Place the access doors back on the water heater tank, and secure them with the screws.
I would suspect a partially burned out heating element or a faulty high limit thermostat. Both components can be tested using a multimeter or ohm meter. Test for continuity. If the heating element has no continuity, it is faulty. If the high limit thermostat has continuity, it is stuck and is faulty. Hope this helped and best wishes.
A tumble dryer that isn't heating up at all needs checking with a continuity test meter. The most common cause is a heating element failure, or t.o.c's going open circuit. Some tumble dryers have heating elements that are easily accessible by removing the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious breakage. Others though have their heating elements inside, which aren't accessible without stripping the dryer down. Tumble dryer heating elements are always protected by thermal fuses which are usually simple devices with 2 wires connected. They can be tested for continuity with a test meter. In your case it is better that y ou call in an engineer to test it.Also overloading and blocked filters can cause the thermostat to cut out and they can also go with simple wear and tear. Check your service manual for spare parts etc
Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating: - house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug. A ohm meter test for these parts is here. Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating? A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating: - glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor. A page for checking gas dryers is here. Meter testing and usage tips. 1. Power supply-check power supply at terminal block where cord enters the dryer. Should read 240V. If you read 240V here, tested with a volt meter, unplug dryer and test components with ohm meter. 2. Thermostats-Cycle and safety thermostats-read them with an ohm meter. Should show continuity . How common thermostats work. 3.Timer-The timer has a set of contacts that pass voltage to the heaters. If you can not determine by wiring picture what they are, check across the two terminals with the largest wires on them. The heater wires are almost twice as large as the others. You should read continuity with timer in heat mode. 4. Thermal fuses-In recent years the makers of dryers are using thermal fuses to let you know something is wrong with your dryer. They are generally non resetting and have to be replaced. The thermal fuses are located on the heater element housing and should read continuity if read with an ohm meter. Most blown thermal fuses are the result of vent/air flow problems or a grounded heating element. 5. Selector Switches-Read the wiring picture and determine which switch is closed. You should read continuity across closed switches. 6. Safety Switch on Motor-There is a safety switch on motor to insure that heaters can not come on unless motor is running. It is normally open when the motor is idle/not running, and closes when motor runs. In order to check with an ohm meter, remove the two large wires on motor switch and make them electrically safe. Tape them. Plug the dryer in and start motor. Check continuity across the terminals on the motor switch you removed the heavy wires from. If it is ok you should read continuity. Remember that the smaller wires in a dryer carry the 120V and the large wires carry 240V. There is no voltage on these two terminals with wires removed. It is ok to test with ohm meter. 7. Heat elements-Test heater element with an ohm meter. You will read continuityacross a good element ( 8-12 ohms is an average element ). But darn it, I don't have a Ohm Meter.... To check the thermal fuse - You can bypass the thermal fuse (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only.To check the thermal cut-out - You can bypass the thermal cut-out (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the thermostats for continuity - - You can bypass the thermostat (just connect the 2 wires together) for testing purposes only. To check the Element: Try removing element and physically looking at the element wire for a break in the wire.
Get a thermostat and place it in the exhaust. The thermostat should reach 160 and then shut down and drop to 120 F and start back heating to 160 again on cotton setting. You should hear an audible click when the thermostat opens and closes. If the dryer is clear of lint and blockages then change the control thermostat which is mounted on the blower housing.