Question about Electrical Supplies
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: quartz heater parts
I have an older presto quartz heater thats needs a thermostat the info on the switch is as follows
INF-120887B 34-191 15AMP 120VAC can anyone help me out? thanks fred
Posted on Feb 04, 2009
Immediately turn off power to heater. One of two things has happened. Either: A. The electrical contacts in one of the thermostats has welded together, necessitating replacement of the thermostat(s). (in this case I would recommend replacing both upper and lower thermos) or B. The lower element has burnt through, and because there is 120 volts to the lower element at all times (it normally only heats when the thermos complete the circuit to give it a path to the other "hot", putting a full 240 volts on it) a section of the element will continue to heat up to the point where the break allows the current to complete it's path to neutral ground via the water in the tank. It can continue to heat until the high limit safety thermo trips out. (the red reset button on the upper thermostat)
If either condition exists, the high limit safety thermo should trip out power to the heater before boiling water, and thus steam, is produced. Even if the safety thermo should fail to cut power, the pressure / temperature relief valve should open, releasing excessive pressure. If that should also fail to open, due to corrosion or such, the water heater will create steam and can actually result in explosion, and possible injury or death!
Several years ago I came across one that was boiling and when I turned on a hot water faucet to relieve the pressure it filled the entire basement with steam. (I still shutter to think if I didn't catch that fast enough I or someone else could have been killed)
The most likely cause of your extra hot water is actually the lower element. After you turn off power to the heater, turn off the water supply to the heater, open a hot water faucet to allow air to enter the tank and drain the tank. Remove the lower element. A bad element is usually visually apparent. If it looks good, you would have to test it with an ohm meter. (should be about 20 ohms if it is good) Install new element, turn on water and fill until water flows steadily from the hot water faucet you left open. Now you can turn the faucet off and turn power back on to heater.
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
take hose off from iron end,press iron button ,breifly! keep tight hold of hose [best to put towel around hose while holding]see if steam comes out.if not hose could be blocked, then take hose from solenoid end and press button .if no steam comes out the solenoid is either faulty or the valve hole inside is blocked,turn off power and take nut off top of solenoid ,check spring and plunger for condition.the small hole may be blocked in the solenoid housing,try a needle in the hole to clear any blockage.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Oct 24, 2015 | Samsung 3.9 Cu. Ft. VRT Steam and Power...
Oct 10, 2014 | Aroma Rice Cooker ARC-150sb 20-Cup Cooked...
Feb 08, 2013 | Saws
Jan 25, 2013 | Electrical Supplies
Oct 31, 2012 | Hardware & Accessories
Sep 07, 2011 | Whirlpool Dryers
Apr 26, 2011 | Masterbuilt 20070106 Electric Smoker
Feb 23, 2011 | Stanley PC509 500 Watt Inverter
Jun 20, 2009 | Mr. Coffee ADX23 / ADX20 Coffee Maker
Feb 14, 2009 | LG (LRBC22522ST) Stainless Steel
71 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: