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Hi my fridge model E381T won't stop beeping once it is plugged in. The compressor runs and the evaporator fan turns.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Techsim
  • 59 Answers

SOURCE: Amana BX22A2W - freezer works, fridge not cooling

Check the damper in the top back of the fresh food section. make sure that it is open and air is coming through it.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: My fridge is not cold though the compressor is running.

If any fans stop cooling stops. The fan inside the freezer will need to be examined for why it stopped or if the one below is stopped it to will need to be checked. I think your defrost timer is on the front of your refrigerator on floor behind the kick plate. If you can turn the timer clockwise until refrigerator starts or stops that may tell us the reason for these failures. Place your model in the model search feature below and choose one of many the same models. Look inside back of freezer wall after you unplug refrigerator and tell me if fan is stopped and if coils have ice or snow covering them.Then we will go from there.Click link below. Thanks, Sea Breeze

http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/

Posted on May 24, 2009

Sea Breeze
  • 4654 Answers

SOURCE: My refrigerator (RB1855) runs excessively long.

There are about four different versions of your model. If you like I will send you the manual and we will work together as this refrigerator is very complex. Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

  • 358 Answers

SOURCE: compressor doesn't run

If the fan located next to the compresor works that means that the compresor relay is bad or the compresor burned out.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore fridge compressor not going on - reset circuit breaker?

423801_1_m.jpg

Look at item 4 on this picture for location of the defrost timer. You will need to rotate it with a flat head screwdriver and you should hear a click to see if your compressor starts. On the first picture above about 0.5 inch from the top from the 12 o'clock position is the dial that you will need to rotate It should be mounted horzintally in the top of your food section. The dial could be white or black. It has 2 tabs on it and can only be rotated in the direction that the tabs would be engaged by a flat head screwdriver. Turning it backwards will result in having to replace the defrost timer straight away. So again rotate this dial and see if your compressor starts.

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.appliancepartspros.com/sect/b/u/1/bu16zh5hjj.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/whirlpool/14104-whirlpool-freezer-evaporator-freezin-over.html&usg=__XxMLJp3a6BBih2eOJKB6x3mtNqk=&h=939&w=680&sz=45&hl=en&start=6&um=1&tbnid=qKT0RbtaUM62dM:&tbnh=148&tbnw=107&prev=/images%3Fq%3DDefrost%2Btimer%2BDial%26hl%3Den%26safe%3Doff%26rls%3Dcom.microsoft:en-ph%26sa%3DN%26um%3D1

If it starts then you have either a bad defrost timer or 60 deg F thermostat in the freezer section coils.

If it does not start then you can have a bad compressor relay, run capacitor or the compressor itself has failed. If the compressor is hot and you hear a hum from the compressor for about 30- 45 seconds it could be any one of the 3 above.

I would be willing to go out on a limb here and say you most likely have a defrost circuit problem.
There is a remote possibility that you had a one time instance of the defrost timer sticking but on an older unit If it stuck once it will most likely stick again in the future.

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

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FP E381T, lights won't stop flashing, fridge not cooling properly


There is another fan to draw air into fridge compartment- access via fridge: remove back panel (long plastic cover- just clips off). Remove control housing (again, just clips off- careful of wiring though). Fan is located up in this channel between fridge and freezer compartments. However, from what you are describing, I think you have a blockage in the freezer drain, causing a build up of ice in the freezer which blocks the air flow to fridge.  To check, remove rear panel of freezer (clips off- you need to press down two clips at top of panel, they can be tricky to get off!!). Disconnect fan motor wiring by unclipping plug connection, and remove sensor wire(white wire) so panel can be removed completely. Now have a look in the trough underneath the evaporator, and check for ice buil up- there should be no ice in this trough. If it is iced up, you need to defrost ice and then pour some water in the trough and see if it runs away. In the middle of the trough there is a small hole where the water should run down and away to collector tray at rear of fridge- if this hole is blocked, water won't run away, so builds up and freezes and blocks air flow to fridge. If hole is blocked, poke a wire down to unblock.
If in doubt, call in the experts- F+P fridges can be a bit fiddly getting apart, as everything clips together ( I worked for F+P for 10 years, and I still sometimes have problems getting panels off easily!!)
Good Luck!!

Mar 10, 2010 | Fisher Refrigerators

1 Answer

Alarm won't stop beeping


Door left open or temp is too warm. most I found is heavy ice build up on freezer evaporator, very easy to tell, pull out one of the drawer and look on the back wall, it should not have any ice on it (a little frost is OK). It may be bad Evaporator sensor, Evaporator fan motor is not running, door evaporator fan reed switch installed upside down,bad connection on defrost heater connector, bad defrost heater element, open heater HI limit switch, open gap on door gasket and compressor never stop running. If no ice build up and compressor is running but temp is rising then it may be sealed system problem. Good Luck.

Mar 01, 2010 | Liebherr Refrigerators

1 Answer

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depending on the model, 1-5 years. 5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

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1 Answer

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5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

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1 Answer

Fridge isn't cold, but freezer is working fine


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

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1 Answer

Lights on Freezer and Fridge not working


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

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