Question about Fisher Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
From what you describe, drain water from the top drawer is getting into the bottom drawer or waste water from the disposer is backing up into the bottom drawer.
1. Each drawer has its own drain hose. Each hose should terminate at the drain point with a 'Y' adapter.
2. Inspect the drain point (under the sink where the drain pipes are) to make sure this 'Y' adapter is present. (you should see two drain hoses from the DW). If not present, then the DW drain lines are not installed properly. (Someone took a shortcut and installed the 'Y' adapter behind the DW)
3. If terminated properly, make sure the drain hoses extend upward as they leave the drain point.
It is important the drain lines are connected properly to ensure proper drainage from the DW. Consult the installation manual for complete details.
Posted on Jun 08, 2008
SOURCE: fisher and paykel dishwasher
F1 is a flood code meaning excessive amounts of water have collected on the bottom catch basin.
If a flood condition is detected, both draws will activate the drain motors and flash F1.
Remove the bottom drawer by pulling the lock pins on each lower side corner. Slide down and remove front cover. Release the drawer slide clips and remove drawer then dry the catch basin.
There are three possible scenarios for this error code;
1. Defective lid motor(s)...Each drawer has two lid motors, attached to the cabinet on either side of the drawer, that pull the lid tight to the drawer when the cycle is started. (this was very common on early models)
2. Something too tall was placed in the drawer preventing the lid from closing completely.
3. (only seen this once) the drain hose developed a crack causing water to leak only when draining.
Posted on Jul 04, 2008
That fault is the pump blocked error (no change in water level).
i have a quick and easy way to solve this problem.
first turn the machine off then tilt the machine back and lean it on something(a chair or wall), look underneath, in the top right hand corner of the plastic outer boul you will see a small pump motor it has a fan on it spin this fan and if it is hard to turn that means there is somthing stuck in the drain pump keep turning the fan and try to free whatever is stuck in the pump, then try the machine on spin again all goin well the object in the pump should come out with the drain water(doing this will not harm the machine) if the object is still stuck you will need to get the water out of the machine (bailing or siphioning will work) and tilt the machine back again and take the wires off the pump and there should be a white tab on the boul holding the pump on pull this tab and twist the pump anticlockwise about a quarter turn(you will need a few towels or a boul or bucket to catch the water) and it should come off exposing the blockage.
Hope this solves your Problem.
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
I had this same problem with my Dryer. It is making the few quick beeps because it thinks the door is still open. Near the bottom of the opening to the dryer there is a sensor switch that gets pushed in when you shut the door. Try holding the switch in with a knife or something and then start the dryer with the door open to check if that is the problem.
After i did this, i closed the door and my dryer started as normal.
Posted on Jul 16, 2010
Hi just read your posting.The fault on your machine is called Single Rotor Position Sensor Error.The rotor sensor is attached to your motor which is located underneath the machine.Now the Error Code will come up on your machine because 1--The wiring to the Rotor Sensor is faulty. 2-- The rotor sensor itself is faulty or 3--- The motor controller, 'which is located under the top panel is faulty.Unfortunately to test the rotor sensor you need an RPS tester .This device will also check the wiring to the rotor sensor.If you have an electrical test meter I can guide you throe the testing of the wires to the rotor sensor but without the RPS tester you cant accurately test the rotor sensor.Some service techs I know just change the rotor sensor to see if that rectifies the fault but in your case you dont have a rotor sensor so even if you do purchase one and change it, the fault could be your Motor Controller.My best advice to you would be to borrow an electrical test meter if you do not have one and reply back and I can help you eliminate the Wiring as the cause of the fault,and then contact a service tech to find out if the fault is with the Rotor Sensor or the Motor Controller.But if the fault is with the wiring then I can guide you throe step by step to repair it.I hope this helps and please reply on how you got on or if you need further assistance.Good luck.
Posted on Jul 17, 2010
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