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Jet table saw 3hp, low torque! New saw, correct electrical hook up, but not much power at the blade, so yes it runs but no torque! mag switch in test position, does it need to be in auto???

I just bought a jet table saw 3hp, it runs but doesn't seem to have any torque, almost like running a 1 1/2 hp. Now I'm not a newbie to electrical, the circuit I use is a 20amp 220, that runs my 220 compressor no problem, but the saw boggs down with just a sheet of 3/4" plywood, even though it's a sharp blade.. Tech support at jet ..well,..after an hour of waiting on hold nobody came on the line to assist, (so much for tech "support"!) ..opened up the mag switch, it has a dial that is pointing to test, vs. auto, should it be on auto? does the test position only allow one leg of the 220?

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I am not sure what model you have but they have this saw in two models one is 230 volt only the other is 230/460 volt.
But that is not a 220 volt circuit. 220 volt is single phase where the 230/460 is a 3 phase circuit.
Look on your motor and see what the power requirement is.
if you have a different machine then the one I am looking at I would switch over to the auto function.

Posted on Sep 02, 2017


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I work in the carpentry shop for the Metropolitan Opera.  Part of my responsibilities there are to maintain the shop tools which include several table saws.    First I will say that your choices are both good. The models you have chosen are both shop quality, heavy duty, production models.  These are not your cheapo underpowered consumer or even pro-sumer quality saws.  These are professional quality, one per lifetime tools.  The decision to buy one of these saws new is one that calls for insight and experience.  Take into consideration the size of the room in which you will install the saw.  Consider which one is easier to change the blade.  Will you be cutting a  variety of materials or just pine?  Does the work you want to do involve repetitious jobs requiring jig set ups or are you just doing general carpentry?     Well I think I can give you a few things to think about before making a life-long investment such as one of these.   Based on all the internet reviews and specs I found, the Grizzly is a better value and the company gives very good support.  The ergonomics of blade replacement, fence operation, and on/off switch placement are the most important factors in regular use.  The fact that Grizzly gives great customer support rates very highly in my book.  In its price range the Grizzly is one of the best values and that goes a long way when you have to buy accessories to accommodate your needs for the tool.  The choice is clear to me...Grizzly.     Some other things mentioned in the reviews of the Grizzly.  A blade wrench is not provided with purchase of the new saw.  Contact the manufacturer when you decide on the other accessories you may want.  The table and other non-powder coated parts are shipped coated with cosmolene, a protective petrolium oily wax coating used to also protect guns.  Apparently cosmolene is best removed by heat (140 degrees should do). Wrap the parts in absorbent rags or newspaper and place in a tent made of a garbage bag and run a blow dryer into it for about 30 minutes.  Then remove the rest physically with rags or spray with WD-40 and wipe.  The lower the heat temperature the less the smell of the cosmolene persists.  Without reading up on cosmolene removal my first choice for removal would have been Goo-Gone or Goof-Off graffiti/gum remover, which is the least toxic solvent for petrolium waxes.   Leave yourself plenty of time to set up your new saw,  and consider its weight is considerable when traversing stairs and such.  You should not have much difficulty as all the reviews give Grizzly the highest marks on ease of accurate set-up.  Good Luck!

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youve either got a bad connection at the new battery or the power wire is shorting out did he have too pull the cables too get them too fit?

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Go to and put in your model number. Look at the motor and wiring section. Look at item 16. The motor overload protector. (probably your reset button) WIth saw unplugged, unwire one sid of this switch and test with an ohm meter. You should read through the switch. If it is open then that's why the saw doesn't work. Many of this type of oveload requires quite a push to reset as you're flexing a klixon disc back to make contact. If is open and you can't reset, it's available there although a bit high priced.

Posted on Aug 13, 2010

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