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Awr1-r1 operates on 120vac accedently connected to 220Vac. All dc voltages ok, but would not turn on. require service manual or solutions ideas.

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Receiver keep cutting off each time it is turned on.


Probably a short in some of the wiring connections in the back. Make sure there are no wires or connections touching each other. Otherwise, there may be an internal issue. Are you sure the voltage setting is correct? 120vac vs. 220vac if that option is available. and you are using the incorrect setting (accidentally)?

Apr 05, 2015 | Onkyo TX-SR302 Receiver

1 Answer

My computer wont start up. The power supply light flashes green when plugged in then red. But still nothing , can someone please help?


Try a Power Supply Unit (PSU) Reset: Unplug the electrical cable from the wall and the PSU (Back of Computer)
Move the red voltage selector to the opposite position it is in and then slide it back. If you live in the USA 120Vac to 220Vac back to 120Vac
After you have done this you can plug the power cable back into the PSU. Connect the power cable to the wall power. If the PSU is still serviceable it will no longer be blinking.
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Jul 08, 2013 | HP Compaq Business d530 PC Desktop

1 Answer

DC to AC power cord Do they still make them if so under what name or product name?


"DC to AC" cords are not really a common item. They are called "Inverters". Typical inverters are 12VDC to 120VAC and are found in mobile applications to operate houshold current type (120VAC) devices. Inverters cost many times more than thier "AC to DC" or "AC to AC" sisters.

An "AC to DC" and "AC to AC" cord however, is a very common item. They are usually called simply "AC Adapters" and are sold in many electronics stores (Best Buy, Fry's, etc.) and electronic specialty stores (Radio Shack) and electrnics suppliers (MCM, etc.) Nearly all of them are designed to reduce the voltage in your home (120 VAC volts alternating current) to a different but usually lower voltage that is either AC or DC.

In order to select the proper AC adapter, you need to know:
(1) Input Voltage - this is the outlet voltage - often 120 volts in N. America, (2) Output voltage - this is the voltage the device needs and is often indicated near the jack, The adapted must match this voltage. (3) the device voltage type - this will be either AC or DC. The adapter must match the type as they are NOT interchangeable. (4) the size and type plug on the cord that will allow it to mate properly with the jack. There are many, many types and it should be tested for fit prior to plugging in and must match the device jack (5) the power requirements - this is usually shown as a number in Watts (w) and / or Amps (a). It is very important that the apdapter power rating is equal to or greater than the amount specified by the device. Failure to meet the requirements above can cause failure of the device, adapter or both.

I hope this helps and good luck!

Feb 08, 2013 | Uniden BC60XLT-1 Handheld Scanner

1 Answer

2002 Yamaha YZF-r1 Fuel pump wiring fault solution need....My 2002 Yamaha YZF-R1 wouldnt restart after running good ... shut it down just for 2 to 3 minutes then the motor just turns over... I couldnt...


Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service/owners manual if you can't find the first and best tool you ever bought for your Yamaha, despair not, for a mere $0 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://r1videos.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/2002-2003-yamaha-r1-service-manual.pdf
OEM parts for Yamaha
http://mybikemanuals.com/yamaha/yamaha-yz-owners-manuals
Yamaha R1 Performance upgrade 1
Yamaha YZF R1 02 03

May 04, 2012 | 2002 Yamaha YZF-R1

2 Answers

I have bought an ONKYO HTS-6300 from the USA (120V) and tried using it in India (220V) using a step down voltage converter. The receiver shows the red light but unit does not get on. It keeps on making a...


Hello
You have to use a step down transformer with this set and not a converter. The AC household voltage in Inda is 220VAC. Your set is designed to work on 120VAC. Therefore a 220VAC==>120VAC step-down transformer is needed to feed it. The onkyo has transformer inside, and it should get 120VAC; atleast 5AMPS current capacity. AN inverter cannot synchronised with this set. You can either buy it from Inidan electronics spare part market, of can be winded by expereiced transformer winders. Never give any inverter to this set, as some Onkyo models will have Torroid transformer inside, and it will take a tremendous amount of current at start-up, and make either your Onkyo of your converter to get damaged. OK.

Jun 13, 2011 | Onkyo HT-S6300 Theater System

1 Answer

No lights, no nothing


your model # NDR1062 indicates a 2 Way refrigerator, the presence of only 2 fuses confirms this.

Your fridge, though it it can use 120vac, also requires 12vdc to operate. At the back of the fridge (access through vent), there should be a terminal block where the DC connection is made. Using a multimeter, measure the voltage across the terminal block. Follow the ground wire from the block over to the common ground point, and measure from +12vdc to the ground point. You voltage should be the same. If you are not getting your 12vdc here, then check your coach fuse panel for a blown DC fuse for the fridge.

If you are getting your 12vdc at the terminal block, measure terminal J4 on the control board, to ground. You should have the same voltage as there is at the terminal block. Don't touch J5, that may have 120vac on it. If you don't have 12vdc at J4, look for missing / damaged wire that connects to J4 from the posititve connection at terminal block.

If you do have 12vdc at J4, check both sides of the DC fuse (3Amp). You should have 12vdc on both sides with respect to ground.

Grounding is crucial, esp. at the tie point. There must not be any corrosion or play in the connections.

Jul 17, 2010 | Dometic Refrigerators

1 Answer

My friend has dryer #LER4634JQ1,has had problems with power to the home,electician states one side of electric panel not getting current.Dryer has power,tumbles but won't heat,heating element tested OK....


Yes, an electric dryer requires 220VAC in order to heat.

I would recommend you begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). IMPORTANT: If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good at the terminal block with the dryer plugged in, you have an internal electrical problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord. Replacement power cords can be purchased at any hardware store for about $20.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, which is tapped off the input voltage. The heating circuits require the full 220-240VAC in order to work. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer will run, but won't heat.

Perform these steps and post back and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.

Mar 11, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat in whirlpool duet dryer replaced the thermistor still won't heat what next?


You have this listed under "Front Load Washer" and don't explain which type of of dryer you have (Gas or Electric). I'm assuming this is an ELECTRIC dryer, since you mentioned a thermistor. The following link will explain how to troubleshoot your dryer no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

The symptoms of a dryer no heat problem are, the dryer drum will still spin, the blower fan runs, and all indicators function, but the dryer does no heat. If this is the problem you are encountering, then the link I provided for you should help you find your cause.

The first step to troubleshooting this problem is to check the voltage at the wall receptacle across the two hot leads (the two large slots in the receptacle - each leg to neutral reads 110-120VAC). A reading across the two hot leads should yield 220-224 VAC. If the voltage is incorrect, this can cause the heating circuits to fail, but allow everything else to work. I have seen where one leg of the 220VAC circuit is tripped or not working at all and causes the wall receptacle to read 1/2 the normal voltage that is required. This could be a problem with the circuit breaker panel or wiring in the wall receptacle. The heating circuits require 220VAC to operate, while the controls and drive motor only use 110-120VAC. If the voltage is correct at the wall, check the voltage at the terminal block in the back of the dryer. This is where the power cord attaches. If the voltage is correct at the terminal block, the problem is in the heating circuits. If the voltage is not correct at the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

NOTE: Please ensure you UNPLUG the dryer when replacing any internal components. Dangerous voltages are still present with the unit turned off.

Now...what controls the heating circuit in a Whirlpool manufactured dryer is the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO), the Hi-Limit Thermostat and the Heating Element. I'm assuming you replaced the TCO(?). If you did, it is recommended that you replace the TCO along with the Hi-Limit Thermostat. Failure to do so can result in premature failure of components you may have already replaced.

The link I provided explains all this. Please read through the information I provided and let me know if you have questions. If you require further assistance, please let me know before you rate the solution. I hope this helps you resolve your problem.

Feb 27, 2009 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE dryer barely heating


If this is an ELECTRIC dryer, you're supposed to read 120VAC at both L1 and L2. With the cord UNPLUGGED, check the voltage across L1 and l2 at the wall receptacle. You should read a cumulative of 220-240VAC. If you're only getting 120VAC, the problem is at your receptacle, which would explain why the dryer is not heating. The heating circuits and timer require 220VAC, while the drive motor only requires 120VAC. If the power at the receptacle is good, leave the dryer unplugged and check the continuity of the power cord from the end of the plug at L2 to the terminal block at the back of the dryer. You should read a short or 0 ohms. If the continuity of the plug is good, the problem may be a loose connection at the terminal block or a broken wire. If the continuity is bad (open), then it looks like you may have a bad power cord. Please post back if you have questions. I hope this helps you.

Jan 03, 2009 | GE DVLR223 Dryers

2 Answers

Kenmore Range


Okay...if the clock assembly appears to be working and the oven light comes on, but nothing else is working, I would double check your input power at the receptacle. You will need to unplug the range and check voltages at L1 to neutral and L2 to neutral. There should be 120VAC on each leg. It sounds like you are missing 120VAC on one side of the receptacle. I believe the clock and oven light will still come on, because they only utilize a portion of the input voltage. The elements, however, require 220VAC. Another way of checking for input voltage is to pull the range out so you can access behind it. Unplug the range and remove the back cover so you can see the terminal board where the power cord is connected. There should be three wires from left to right (BLACK, WHITE, RED). BLACK is L1, RED is L2. There will be 120VAC on each one of these lines when you plug the power back into the receptacle. If you place a meter from L1(BLACK) to NEUTRAL (WHITE), you should have 120VAC. The same is true when you place a meter across L2 (RED) and NEUTRAL (WHITE). If you connect the meter across L1 (BLACK) to L2 (RED) you should have your full 220VAC. If either leg (L1 or L2) is missing, the range elements will not work. If you check in this manner, you not only will be able to confirm whether or not you have proper input power, but you will also be determining whether or not the power cord is good. This may be a simple matter of a loose terminal in the back of the range, or...I have seen where consumers have wired them incorrectly. Check for the following in this order:

1. Double check you breaker to make sure it is not tripped (I know you said you already checked it).

2. Unplug range and check for proper voltage at the receptacle.

3. Remove back cover of range and verify correct wiring of the power cord.

4. With range unplugged, ensure all terminal lugs are properly tightened.

CAUTION: Do not attempt to tighten the terminal lugs with the power cord plugged in. Also, do not attempt to service the receptacle (repair or replace) with the power turned on at the breaker. Votages dangerous to life exists. I hope this information is helpful to you. If you have any questions or concerns, please post back with your comments.

Jan 31, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

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