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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Original xbox
16 - dashboard - Clock cannot be set.
Basically it comes down to this. Error 16 has to do with not finding the menu setting with which you can set the clock of the hdd. This happens to a lot of people that erase their hdd (original/upgraded) or MS dashboard files and after that they don't immediatly install the hdd but leave the xbox without power longer than 5 hours.
It's all about the hdd can't find the menu with which it can set the clock. This is mostly because the xbox hdd is empty (you removed dashboard or fux0red it via ftp). The problem arises when xbox searches for menu to set clock with, can't find it and voila: error 16. Well read on please!
So you have an error 16 huh? Don't worry "nothing" is broken!
You have an xbox hdd that is locked. And normally you can boot in original and modded mode. Retail or upgraded doesn't matter. You start playing around with xboxdash.xbe etc. using ftp programs. While doing this you "accidently" remove your MS dashboard and also your alternate dashboard (Evox, etc.) so there is no dash anymore on the xbox hdd.
You end the ftp session and after that you shut off your xbox. Normally when you would start up again it gives you an error 13/14 ( no dashboard found). No worries with a slayer Evox cd (and a hardmod), all is ok. BUT this is only WITHIN 3 hours or so.
This is because the internal clock of the xbox will only be kept alive by the capacitors for only 3 or 4 hours. So when you leave your xbox unplugged from electricity for over 5 hours after you have played with the .xbe's AND you have removed your (ms and evo-x) dash from your xbox than you are fux0red. Why do you ask?
Why can't I boot from disc?
Its as follows Xbox starts booting==> (almost 1st thing a xbox does is) searches for internal clock==> doesnt find internal clock because there hasn't been any electricity on the xbox for 5 hours so battery that kept clock alive is empty and clock is gone==> searches for the proper dashboard menu to set clock with ==> doesnt find msdashboard or evo-x dashboard menu becuz you have removed it from the hdd for whatever reasons you had==> xbox gives error 16: cannot set clock.
So what do you do about it? Two options!
1. There are some bios'es around that allow the chip to boot past the clocksetting. (do a search!). So how do you get that bios on your chip because you cant boot to a flash program or something? Well you need to have an external flasher.
It seems the m8 bios will take care for you of booting past the clocksetting. Or use the latest Xecutor bios
2. This is the more easy and newbie friendly strategy
-Get a friend with a modded xbox.
-Unlock his hdd with eeprom management from a slayer evo-x cd.
-Than, place his hdd in your xbox.
-Boot with your chip on.
-Now the xbox DOES find a dashboard when you boot in original mode and you can set the time in the msdashboard clock settings.
-Shut off xbox and remove your friends hdd
-PLace his hdd back in his xbox and lock it again
-Install your hdd
-(clock has been set) So boot up with slayer cd.
-Install normally whatever you wanna install
If you get an error 13 after this, please read up on the error 13 explanation!
13 - kernel - Dashboard launch fail (due to missing/bad key, or anything else that would prevent it from running) and the dashboard didn't specify why it failed.
The error it gives is because of the incompatibility between the (older) dashboard (4920) that older slayer cd installs and the new dashboard/kernel versions found in some new xbox's and found in xbox's that have been connected to xbox live (when you go on xbox-live, it'll upgrade your dashboard file to i believe it is now 5659.03. This dasboard is incompatible with the dash that (old) slayer cd installs (for example 2.5 or lower) for you.
(In detail, in the eeprom chip there is a kernel which is incompatible with the dashboard (4920) that slayer installs.)
So what do you do to fix it? You can use the dashupdate found on most new xbox games! Be sure to 1st unplug your ethernet cable before you do so!!!
Besides that, just use a good installation disc and all is fine. Use a 2.6 slayer or something similar
Posted on Dec 30, 2007
I had this exact same issue just yesterday. Channel info would flash
intermittently. While set was in this mode, could not enter menu,
change channels, etc. from remote or front panel controls. Similar to tjh492, I thought it might be an
overheating issue. But unplugging the Viera and waiting for set to cool
made no difference.
I then remembered that this issue popped up the instance I surfed to a particular channel (FWIW, 26-3 "Me Too" on Comcast here in Aurora, Illinois, USA). I had a hunch that there might be an issue with the signal on the channel that prevented the Viera from properly syncing, so I decided to unplug the antenna cable. Once I did that, the channel info displayed steady. I was then able to change channels (of course screen was blank as antenna cable was unplugged) and enter the Viera menu. I immediately went to channel set-up and manually removed channel 26-3 from the channel list. After reconnecting cable, Viera was back to normal. Since I'm not a big fan of "Me Too", problem solved :)
Not sure why a digital channel sync issue would effectively make the Viera remote and front panel controls inoperable. Pure speculation, but it could be that the Viera microprocessor was overloaded trying to sync to channel and this prevented any interrupts from remote or front panel controls.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 28, 2016 | Samsung Televison & Video
Feb 02, 2015 | Samsung Televison & Video
Sep 08, 2011 | Samsung SyncMaster 244T 24" LCD Monitor
Basically the wiring of the large harness corresponds to the pins like this.
Starting in the upper right hand corner and working down the right side from A12 down to A1.
1=Left rear output-red
2=Left rear output-blue
3=Right rear output-black
4=Right rear output-yellow
6=Left front input-black
7=Left front input-yellow
8=Left rear input-orange
9=Left rear input-green
Back up to upper left hand corner on the large plug
13=Right front tweeter output-red
14=Right front tweeter output-blue
15=Left front tweet output-red
16=Left front tweeter output-blue
18=Right front input-red
19=Right front input-white
20=Right rear input-blue
21=Right rear input-red
23=Right front sub (+) output-yellow
24=Right front sub (-) output-black
The small harness is the same above with the upper right position being pin 1 going down to pin 4 then back up to the top for pin 5 down to pin 8.
1=Memory Power-Lrg White
2=Amp Ground- Lrg Black
3=Left front sub (+)output-yellow
4=Left front sub (-) output-black
5=Left front mid (+) output-white
6=Left front mid (-) output-brown
7=Right front mid (-)output-brown
8=Right front mid (+) output-white
Hope this will help you.
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