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Model 13AJA42A01 What is the compressor and price? Service man tested capacitor. Test Good Air coditioner does not produce cold air Is the problem the compressor? Thank you Rod

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Check out Thermostatic Expantion Valve

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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mrhappyface
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SOURCE: air compressor fills, but slows down as the pressure builds

sounds like you need a new check valve which should be somewhere between the compressor outlet piping,tubing,etc and the tank which prevents the air in tank to back feed to the compressor which would cause hard starting and could damage the motor easy way to check is when you shut off the compressor with some air in the tank if the check valve is bad it would continue to bleed air out out the unloader valve .the unloader valve on your unit is most likely part of the pressure switch when the unit shuts of it should only bleed down the pressure in the pump so it would make it easy to start when needed hope i didn't confuse you

Posted on Mar 23, 2009

TheMobilian
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Ok maybe the heating element got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it may not be the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown.READ MORE...

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

honeymokey
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SOURCE: Air compressor clutch not engaging? No cold air

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compman66
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SOURCE: Air Compressor WL611800 not working!!!

does the pump even attempt to run? or does it just hum when you try to turn it on? If it just hums either the pump is locked up or the motor start switch or capacitor is faulty.

Posted on Dec 10, 2009

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1 Answer

Replaced defrosting timer, still doing the same thing. Either fan only or compressor only works, l have swapped wires around at the timer, made sure that timer is not in defrost cycle at no avail.


THE COMPRESSOR:
If you hear a clicking sound coming from the back of your refrigerator/freezer, then the problem is most likely the compressor, relay and or capacitor is overheating or not getting proper power and will not start.The compressor is the component on your refrigerator that allows your refrigerator to cool. If this component is not working properly your refrigerator will stop cooling. Most of the time the compressor is not the component that has failed.

To check ur compressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, some located next to compressor in a casing.

You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes to ur srtart winding, 1 goes to ur run winding and the center goes to ur ground.

Place ur meter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prong agin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms

Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total of ur two separate test. 9 ohms, if they match ur ok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms , u have a short in ur compressor. It should show infinity

TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE

A 3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) The kit includes relay, capacitor, and overload device, pre-wired. The kit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.

The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection


Lastly you should also check ur THERMISTORS in the freezer and fridge section for continuity OHMS and for amount of OHMS current being put out. In most models around 13000 ( give or take 150 ohms) ohms is required.


1-3 TEMPERATURE CONTROL
As the food in the fridge gets colder, it gives off less heat, and the air inside the fridge will remain colder. A thermostat called aCOLD CONTROLwill cycle the cooling system on and off to keep the temperature inside your fridge within a certain range. You can adjust that range using one of the dials within your fridge.
On most fridges, all the cold air for both the food compartment and the freezer compartment is produced in one evaporator. Since the freezer is so much colder than the food compartment, most of the cold air that is produced circulates to the freezer compartment. Only a small amount is needed in the food compartment to keep it down to the proper temperature. This amount is adjusted by a smallAIR DOORin the duct between the evaporator and the food compartment. The control for this air door is the other of the two dials within your fridge.
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold control thermostat ( in the fridge compartment) with an alligator jumper. You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms- If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.

To test or change the cold control, first Pull the knob off it and remove any plastic cover plate or housing from it.
You will see two wires leading to it. There will also be a thick, stiffCAPILLARY TUBEattached. The capillary tube is the liquid-filled temperature-sensing element of the cold control, and operates in the same manner as a thermometer
Read more:

http://removeandreplace.com/2013/10/31/fix-refrigerator-freezer-wont-cool-freeze/#ixzz3WDEo5NDJ

http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KqXN-ZCuptk THIRMISTOR CHECK

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53ZFeiWgtuk

REMEMBER GOD IS THE REASON FOR GOOD ADVICE"
Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix Troubleshooting Thermistor Problems in Refrigerators Refrigeration System Basics Chapter 1 Refrigerator Is Not Cooling What To Check And How To Fix

Jan 11, 2017 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

Air compressor wont start


For air compressor not working,click the link below :---http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/air-compressor-wont-start.html
-----------Thanks.

Jan 20, 2012 | Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

Compresser not working, Not blowing out cold air


Without troubleshooting with a meter to make sure more often than not the dual capacitor is the reason that the fan blows but the compressor does not start.

This is the part for your model that we are talking about:
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-M6Y12F2A-82WA%2fC-%3d%3di1111541&PartID=1111541

You can test you old one if your good with an analog meter by simply reversing the leads across the terminals on an R X1000 or higher setting on the meter. The meter should jump give a momentary reading and drop return to infinity. Only 2 of the 3 terminals will show meter movement. Mind you you must make sure the unit is unplugged while testing.

Thanks for using FixYa

Kelly


Jun 05, 2010 | Maytag M6Y12F2A Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Cold air is blowing out the condenser, but not blowing cold air inside the house.


hot air supposed to be comming out of the condenser while in operation if not the compressor may not be running check the capacitor for swelling or a leakage

Sep 26, 2009 | Mitsubishi MSY-A24NA Air Conditioner

1 Answer

When running in air condition mode very little cold air,then trips breaker


your compressor is not working properly it could be several things, capacitors, wires rubbed bare, etc, most likely a bad dual run capacitor in the outdoor unit, turn it off and call a service tech. before you kill the compressor, which is $1000, a run capacitor is about $100-$150 depending on how crooked your ac man is, wholesale they are about
$15-$20, turn the breaker off and call some body

Aug 11, 2009 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Fan blows but not cold


possible breaker is bad. Have an electrician do an amp test on the compressor which will tell you if the compressor is bad. That is the only way to test the compressor. I would change the breaker first due to the age of the breaker and (if it hasn't been changed out before) due to the amount of time the breaker has ran your a/c system. I f this breaker continues to trip I would have the units compressor checked on amps being pulled from electric service

Jul 15, 2009 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

No cool air


It is the capacitor write down the wiring colors to the capacitor and then disconnect the safety disconnect on side of house. And even turn off the breaker to the condensing unit. Okay now that no power is going to the unit take out the capacitor you wrote down what wires went where and ohm out the herm side go from the center post to herm side. Should be bad wont get a reading. Get new capacitor and re install. good luck ken

If not capacitor get back to me. And please leave good feed back

Apr 29, 2009 | Coleman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My Dometic 620315 Penguin roof a/c does not produce cold air.


If the compressor is running with no cold air the unit is more than likely no good. It can not be recharged. you need a new unit. If the compressor is not running you need to check the capacitors.

Mar 16, 2009 | Dometic Rooftop RV Air Conditioner

1 Answer

No cold air


  1. The filter could be dirty This is the most probable cause and, of course, the easiest to check and correct.
  2. The evaporator coil face could be coated with lint,dirt, etc.Dirt or lint on the coil will restrict the flow of air through the coil and the unit must be removed from the recreational vehicle and the soil must be thoroughly cleaned with strong detergent (Coil X,Calclean, etc.) and water. Be sure to protect the fan motor and electrical controls during cleaning by covering them with polyethylene sheet. After the system is cleaned, allow it to thoroughly dry for several hours (before turning it on) to prevent electrical shorts.Before system is put back into operation, be sure the filter is properly installed to prevent recurrence of dirty coil.
  3. No compressor (Does not try to start).The compressor does not run and it does not hum.
    1.The selector switch may be open.
    2. Thermostat may be open.
    3. Overload switch may be open.
    4. Compressor winding may be open.
  4. Selector Switch
  5. Thermostat
  6. Low Voltage
  7. Overload
  8. Compressor
  9. Wiring (Mis-wired)
  10. PTCR or Potential Relay
  11. Start Capacitor
  12. Run Capacitor
To check the selector switch, remove wires from the terminals
and rotate the switch to the proper position and read
continuity as follows:
Terminals Switch Position
L-1-3 Lo Heat
L-1 Lo Fan
L-2 Hi Fan
L-1-4 Lo Cool
L-2-4 Hi Cool


Compressor Motor
The compressor motor is located inside the hermetic
compressor housing and therefore not accessible for service or
visual observation in the field. However, the motor winding
condition can be analyzed by using an ohm meter. Be sure to
remove all the leads from the compressor terminals before
making this check.
1) If the resistance between any two terminals is 0
ohms, the motor windings are shorted.
2) If the resistance between any terminal and the
compressor housing is anything but infinity, the
winding is grounded.
3) If the resistance between any two terminals is
infinity, the winding is open.
On a good compressor, the highest resistance will be between
the R (run) and S (start) terminals. The lowest resistance will
be between the C (common) and R (run) terminals. The
intermediate resistance will be between the C (common) and
S (start) terminals. Notice that compressors have the
identification of the terminals marked on either the terminal
cover or on the compressor housing.

Capacitor Check
There are several capacitor test devices available. The ohm
meter is one of them. The ohm meter cannot verify a
capacitors MFD (microfarrad) value. However, the following
procedures will show you how to use an ohm meter to
determine if the capacitor is good, open, shorted or grounded.
Before testing any capacitor, always perform the following
procedure:
* This test must be done with a analog type meter.
a) Disconnect all electrical power to the air conditioner.
b) Discharge the capacitor with a 20,000 ohm (approx.
3 watt) resistor or larger.
c) You may discharge capacitors with a standard volt
meter if you use a scale over 500 volts and touch the
leads (one lead to each side of the capacitor). The
volt meter will discharge the capacitor.
d) Identify and disconnect the wiring from the
capacitor.
e) Set and zero the ohm meter on the “highest” scale.
When testing for a good, open or shorted capacitor,
perform the following checks: Place the ohm meter
leads across the capacitor terminals (one lead on
each terminal) and perform a continuity test. Then
observe the action of the meter needle or indicator.
Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same. Note: If the capacitor had not been
properly discharged, a false reading could be
indicated on the first test. Always test several times
(reversing the leads with each test). This will verify
the capacitors condition.
Good Capacitor
If the capacitor is good, the indicator will move from infinity
(the left side), towards zero ohms and slowly return back to
infinity. Reverse the leads and test again. The result should
be the same.

Start Capacitor
Most models use a start capacitor and a start relay to give the
compressor high starting torque. The compressor will,
therefore, start against normal pressure difference (head
pressure minus suction pressure) even when shut down for a
short period of time. The start relay will disconnect the start
capacitor when the motor reaches approximately 75%
running speed.
Start (Potential) Relay
The start relay consists of –
1) Normally closed contacts internally between
terminals #1 and #2 which switch in the start
capacitor in parallel to the run capacitor during shut
down and then switch out the start capacitor when
the motor reaches approximately 75% normal
running speed.
2) A high voltage coil internally between terminals #5
and #2 to actuate the contacts. The coil is too weak
on line voltage to actuate the contacts, but it is
connected in series with the start winding and it gets
the generated voltage of the start winding portion of
the compressor motor. This generated voltage is
much higher than line voltage and varies with the
speed of the motor. Therefore, since the relay is
designed to open the contacts at 75% of normal
running voltage (measured between terminals #5 and
#2), the contacts will open (thus disconnect the start
capacitor) at approximately 75% of normal running
speed.
(B) Positive Temperature Coefficient Resistor
(Commonly Known As PTCR Start
Device)
The resistor acts like a potential relay in that it takes the start
capacitor out of the start circuit, but uses resistance of
electrical flow (back EMF from compressor) instead of
opening a set of contacts. The service person should be careful
handling the resistors. They will be hot during operation (up
to 160 degrees F). The air conditioner needs to be off for 3-5
minutes during cycle time and when servicing to let the
resistor cool down.

191413c.jpg
That covers everthing.
Please rate this a fixya

Feb 09, 2009 | Coleman Mach III Air Conditioner

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