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Don't expect a quilt to be as accurate from a serger as from a sewing machine. First, you probably want to focus a strip quilt where rows of strips are stitched together. If you do strips, you won't have to worry so much about maintaining an exact 1/4" seam. You can also vary the widths of strips in order to camouflage any seam variations. Avoid a pattern that requires points being aligned! Any seam width variances will not as obvious as an error (it is intensive getting an accurate 1/4" on a sewing machine--so-o-o-o much more difficult on a serger). There are usually seam width marks on a serger that you can follow as a guide, but straight line serging is very difficult to accomplish. You can always try marking a line on your serger using painter's tape.
FWIW, making a strip quilt on a serger is a fast way of finishing a quilt. I divide my quilt into 3 or 4 sections, like making it in thirds or fourths. That way, when the quilt begins to grow, you are not constantly grappling with flipping or turning the heavy and bulky fabric. Instead, do each section separately, then stitch the sections together to make the whole quilt.
Also, be sure to press all the seams of a strip quilt in the same direction.
The needle thread breaks
1. the needle thread is not threaded properly
2. The needle thread tension is to tight
3. The needle is bent or blunt
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted
5. The needle thread & the bobbin thread are not set under the presser foot when starting to sew
6. the threads were not drawn to the rear after sewing
7. The thread is either to heavy or to fine for the needle
It sounds like one of your clearances in the machine is off. When a machine skips stitches like yours is doing, it does so because the hook responsible for "catching" the thread from the needle is not close enough to the needle so it misses the loop of thread from the needle. If your machine was having a timing problem it wouldn't sew well on any fabric. A clearance problem shows up on certain fabrics at certain times. A few things you could do to try to compensate it would be to use a slightly larger needle and turn your top tension dial down to a lower setting. Move the machine a little slower on the frame or increase the speed of the machine. Either way a trip to your technician will be needed. Make sure you tell him to check the needle to hook clearance.
Your problem is the top thread. Make sure you lift the presser lever BEFORE you thread the machine. After threading the machine, just before you thread the needle, lower the presser foot, and test the top tension by pulling down on the thead. If there is little or no tension, adjust the top tension to a higher number, say from 3 to 5, or from 5 to 7, and test the tension again. If you fail to increase the tension by above procedure, look for cotton that might be stuck in the tension blades and remove it. Hope this will help you
Usually a walking foot is for straight forward stitching only.It keeps the many layers from shifting for you. The "hand-look" quilting takes a couple stitches forward then one back. If you look close, you will see about every other stitch is thicker and stands out more.