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I have a 4886 array. We need to test that no components are missing, like two of the mid speakers, or one of the high drivers while it's still hanging. Is there an easy way to test these boxes?

Hard to tell if components are out audibly when hanging.

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SOURCE: i'm buiding a subwoofer box. i have 2-12

Well, good luck sir. Your'e going to have a lot of cancellation and possibly some blown speakers out of al of this unless you actually build a box around the back of all of the speakers. the subs are fine but there will be issues with the speakers. Either way figure out your own loads of all and have 1 2 channel amp for the speakers or multi channel for the speakers and a mono for the subs.

Posted on May 31, 2010

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SOURCE: iw-803 earthquake sound in wall

many amplifiers protect against a short and against an open. They are looking for speaker resistance within limits. Your wire to the speaker may be too long or too thin. You may have hooked up more than 1 speaker per output causing too low resistance. Keep your wires short as possible and use 12 or larger gauge wire if you are driving large wattage speakers. Check the ohm rating on your speakers and compare them with what the amplifier calls for. Hope this helps

Posted on Jan 03, 2011

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I have a set of kicker ks6.2 component speakers. not long back both the mids stopped working at the same time but the tweeters continued to work. I was told my head unit could be buggered so I brought a...


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The high and mid tone speaker has been broken ,where can i get new speakers


It's more like the "crossover" that's inside cabinet. Crossover splits signal to the speakers hi's, mid's and lo's. It's highly unlikely you blew you blew hi and mid speakers. Contact folks like Radio Shack, etc for optional crossover(s)

Mar 02, 2011 | KEF Audio RDM-3 Speaker

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No sound from tweeter bx5a


First of all, never connect the audio from your receiver directly to the tweeter. You can blow the tweeter instantly. The mid-bass driver can be damaged from a direct connection as well.

Since you get absolutely no sound from either driver, this seems to implicate the crossover. If the crossover has opened, no signal gets through, if it has opened early in the signal path.

But, it is also possible that a short exists, and that perhaps your amp cuts off the output having sensed a short. The short could be in the crossover or one of the drivers.

Here are some troubleshooting tips--

To prevent damage to your amp, turn it off while making or breaking any connections inside the speaker boxes.

Write down which wires get connected to which place on the drivers, so you can get them back where they belong.

With your amp turned off, connect the bad speaker to your amp. You've already verified that no sound is produced when both drivers are connected.

So, with your amp off, disconnect one wire from the tweeter in the bad box.

Briefly turn your amp on and listen for sound.

If you get sound, the tweeter is shorted.

If you get no sound, with the amp off, reconnect the tweeter in the bad box and disconnect one wire from the mid-bass driver.

Briefly turn the amp on and listen before turning the amp off.

If you get sound now, but not before, the mid-bass driver is shorted.

If you got no sound either way, check the DC resistance of the mid-bass driver (only, not the tweeter. Ohmmeters put out a small DC voltage to test resistance. That DC voltage might damage a tweeter, maybe. Don't risk it). Ohm the mid-bass driver while it is not connected to the crossover. If the driver is good, you should read some ohms--a little less than the stated impedance. An 8 ohm driver might read 6.5 ohms, for instance. If you get an open or a short (with the crossover disconnected from the mid-bass driver) you have a blown driver. Two actually, since neither the tweeter nor the mid-bass driver produced any sound in the previous tests.

If you can't get ahold of an ohmmeter, try this--

Open the good, working speaker and place the two side by side.

Connect your amp to the bad speaker box only.

With your amp turned off, disconnect the wires from the mid-bass driver in the bad box and connect them to the mid-bass driver in the good box. Disconnect one of the wires from the "good" mid-bass driver first, so you don't have two crossovers connected to it at the same time--even if only one of them will get powered on. It keeps the confusion down to a minimum when trying to isolate your problem. Oh, and disconnect one wire from the bad tweeter, in case it is shorted.

Turn the amp on and listen briefly before turning the amp off.

If you got sound, the "bad" crossover is fine, but the "bad" mid-bass driver is blown. And, since you got no sound in the previous tests, the "bad" tweeter is blown, as well.

If you got no sound, try it the other way around. Meaning--

With the amp off, disconnect the speaker wires coming from your amp from the bad speaker box and connect them to the good speaker box.

Your amp is now connected only to the good speaker box.

With the amp still off, connect the mid-bass wires from the good box to the mid-bass driver in the bad box. Remember to disconnect one of the "bad" crossover wires from its own driver first, so only one crossover is connected to the "bad" mid-midbass driver. Remember to disconnect one wire from the "good" and "bad" tweeters, so the only sound you hear--if any--is from the "bad" mid-bass driver, powered by the "good" crossover.

If this produces sound, but the previous attempts failed, you have a crossover problem.

If you still get no sound, something went wrong and you need to retest the good speaker by itself and back up a few steps and try again.

Assuming you got sound from the "good" crossover while it was driving your "bad" mid-bass, make sure no wires have come loose inside the "bad" box. Assuming you have sound connections at each end of each wire, you now need to desolder the electrolytic capacitors from the circuit board.

Make sure you mark them first, so you can put them back where they belong.

You can remove only one at a time, if that helps.

Use an ohmmeter to check some components.

The big red coil should read pretty close to a short, maybe one ohm.

The capacitors should read open or infinite resistance, although you might see a steadily increasing resistance while the capacitor charges up from the ohmmeter. If you read a steady low resistance on a capacitor after it has been removed from the circuit board, that capacitor is bad and must be replaced. The markings on the capacitor should give you some clues as to the proper replacement.

All things considered, I suspect that your problem is a shorted electrolytic capacitor. But, I gave you all I could think of so you can narrow it down and isolate the problem, whatever it might be.

I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

How much air space is need for a sealed encloser


are you sharing the air space or building a divider to give each driver its own air space

these speakers or not made for low end bass these woofer are meant for mid bass high bass
  • 6.5'' High Power Subwoofer
  • Non-Press paper Cone
  • Specially Treated Foam Edge Suspension
  • 1.5'' High Temperature Aluminum Voice Coil
  • Magnet Weight: 40 Oz
  • Impedance: 4 Ohm
  • Fs: 80Hz, Qms: 4.05, Qes: 1.3, Qts: 1.2, SPL: 87(dB), Vas: 6.8(Cuft)
  • Mounting Depth: 3"
  • Rubber magnet Boot Cover fers are
  • there is only 3 " of mounting depth needed i would build you door pannel out fiberglass a door pod and mount them on the door if you have a factory speaker there . then run to the amp and turn the x-over on to high pass and them use them as a mid bass driver up front for the front sound stage for get about them as a subwoofer get the lanzar 10's or 12's

    i mounted a set of ma audio 8" subs on my 03 s-10 door the speaker fit in the 6.5 location had to trime the door metal and space them out a little cause the 4.75 mounting depth.it worked and then i ran the them in 2 ohm stereo to my 4 channel amp and used the high pass crossover to run them as a mid bass driver works great for me . ma audio 500 watt dual 4 ohms 8" subs each i had 250watts to each sub.

    you could build a small enclosure just big enough to fit the 6.5 woofer you could build a dual camber enclosure like 8wx5dx8h internale air space would be 0.18

    15 wx5dx8h would give you 0.347 share the air space this is internal air space

    caraudioquestion@gmail.com

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