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Bubbles in hot water then clears

I have an Amtrol WH7L7P tank and water has a lot of air bubbles in line when first started

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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freetek
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SOURCE: not enough hot water. I have an Amtrol Extrol coil water heater

Since you mentioned 'both temperatures' it seems your unit is like most all of them, a lower and upper coil.
If your hot water supply runs out quickly, this normally means that the lower coil has failed. Since heat rises, the upper coil will never supply a tankful of hot water, just hot to start, and then as the flow continues, it doesn't have time to do more than warm the water flowing into the tank.
Every home should now own a simple digital multimeter; they cost less than $20 US everywhere and one can find them in auto parts stores, electronic supply companies and tool companies.
If you have a Harbor Freight tool store in your area, you can get them for under $10 US any time and sometimes even less:
Digital meter   
You need to be absolutely certain that the voltage to the water heater is shut down. Before you measure anything else, set the meter to its highest AC setting and check across the coils and then from either contact to the metal housing. If it is dead everywhere, then set the meter to the lowest Ohms scale (normally 200). The resistance of the coil should be nearly the same reading as when you simply short the meter's probe tips together. If it measures 'OL' then the coil is open and must be replaced.  

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

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SOURCE: air in hot water lines only after installing

Does you system have an auto air vent - has a cap like tire valve. cap should be left loose.

Posted on Mar 14, 2009

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SOURCE: No hot water from the Amtrol Boiler Mate model

The smart control was only reading 140 it never went up or down from that number and now it has an ER3 code seem the circulator just runs and runs

Posted on Feb 14, 2010

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SOURCE: amtrol water heater WH-7P gets barely warm water

I had the same problem. I had a steam boiler and the water level in the glass gauge was below the top of the coil of the tank. remember water finds its own level, so it settled at the glass gauge level, therefore air got in coil.

to resolve problem : turned on manual water feed to boiler to raise water level. as water level got higher, let out water in hosecock between boiler and amtrol. amtrol noticed hot water reduction, circulator clicked on, boiler kicked on, turned off hosecock, turned off manual feed. I effectively bleed water out of line by running water out of amtrol as water feed in boiler increased water level above coil.

took a while to figure this out, so if this is the problem, dont feel to bad. keep water level of steam boiler high.

Posted on May 12, 2010

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: no hot water have amtrol boilermate

There is a device on the boilermate called an aquastat which controls the flow of hot water into it. Replace that and you should be up and running again. Joe.

Posted on May 23, 2010

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Put that water in a glass and let it sit for a couple of hours. If it clears up, it is air bubbles. The old unit most likely had mineral deposits on the elements and they insulated the water from micro heating that creates the bubble. Since the unit is new, the water is in direct contact with the heating elements and micro bubbles are forming on the elements. When you turn the hot water on, the turbulence washes the bubbles out.

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I have a couple of thoughts. You may have air in the boiler water circuit at the loop that feeds the tank. You'll have to find the vent in the loop to get it out. Second, the automatic valve that opens for hot water may not be opening fully. Have you felt both the boiler water lines that go in and out of the tank? If the water going in is hot and the line out is very cold you have very little boiler water going through the loop. Make sure the isolation valves on the loop are open. Is your boiler full of water? If the boiler loop lines are hot going in and coming out, the tank is full of rust or debris and no water can get to the fins on the internal tubing to pick up heat. If that's the case there is no repair and its time to get a new tank. Hope this helps good luck.

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The tank rusting itself shut is almost an impossibility due to pressure. I would be inclined to believe that the controller is starting to fail and water that was way too hot entered the system and caused and overpressure issue that made the leak, When the pressure and temp dropped, the problem subsided. According to some of the threads that I have found on this, Amtrol is pretty generous about replacing the defective parts even when they dont have to. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/water-heaters/335226-amtrol-boilermate-problem.html

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Amtrol water heater WH-7P gets barely warm water


From what you are saying it sounds like an issue with either a circulator pump or a zone valve. It depends on what type of system you have ... if you have a circulator pump that only runs the Amtrol then that is probably bad. If you have a zone valve system then it is probably the zone valve if you still have heat for the rest of the house. If you have no space heating then it is probably the circulator pump.

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Air in hot water lines only after installing thermal expansion tank. tank is mounted below water line .


Does you system have an auto air vent - has a cap like tire valve. cap should be left loose.

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