Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Here's what I did, I defrosted! I found out that the fridge temp is monitored and maintained by the freezer. Because we had a power outage one night, my freezer thawed while we all slept and then when power came back on, freezer re-froze but this cause an ice build up on the vent on the back wall of the freezer. Well, ice must have been in one (or more) vents, causing blocked air flow in my top half of the refrigerator. I turned the dial in the freezer to "off" which also shuts down power to the fridge half. I then unplugged the refrigerator, hauled all my food items into coolers, opened the freezer door and refrigerator doors and left them open for a little over six hours. I took advantage of this empty fridge and freezer and wiped everything down. After this time frame passed, I plugged the fridge back in, turned the freezer dial to my preferred freezer temp, and wah-lah! Within two hours I had a cold fridge and solid ice cubes in the freezer. I then put all my food items back into their appropriate compartments, and went to work. Bear in mind, a total 24-hour period is needed for the fridge to re-set itself, but still, after two hours the fridge was noticeably cold. Who knew, besides our parents' generation: DEFROST!
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
did you tilt it when you moved it and then when u got it in place plug it in? if so youve got compressor problems, anytime you tilt a fridge you have to let it set for several hours to allow the oil to get back to the compressor or you ruin the compressor
Posted on Jan 01, 2009
Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on May 27, 2009
if there is frost build up on rear wall of freezer section the unit is not going through defrost cycle which builds up frost on evaporator and restricts cold air flow to the fresh food section. one of three things are bad. defrost heater, defrost thermostat or defrost timer. if no frost on rear wall you might be low of freon.
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Sep 28, 2016 | Hotpoint Refrigerators
Apr 21, 2016 | Frost Refrigerators
Oncce the fridge was shut off and left for a while the cooling had come back . If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.
If after about 6 hours you observe cooling it is possible that the defrost timer is faulty.
Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge.
However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off . If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.
If defrost timer works but frost keeps forming check while the compressor shuts if the heaters are working, check continuity of the heaters.
replace the defrost timer, heater or thermostat one you have confirmed to eliminate one by one.
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