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My front-load washer is 6 months old and the tub is oval-shaped. I'm honestly not sure whether to call it the drum or tub, but it's the part that spins with the clothes in it.

It's come away from the housing and is misshapen, so I'm not sure if it will horribly fail at some point or not. Is it feasible to get this fixed, or fix it myself? Or is it more likely that a new washer would be more cost effective?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
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Goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Washer_tech
  • 164 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag washer leak

the stem kit, boot seal is worn and leaking. if not repaired soon the bearings on the tub and on the brake package will start to rust and sound like a train going by. After 15 years of service its probably time to replace. Call your local service company and get an estimate on replacement of the seals and weigh that against the cost of replacement of machine. hope this helps. please come back and rate my answer.

Posted on Dec 12, 2007

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Doesn't spin the clothes dry on the final spin but spins at high revolutions without a load of clothes

I have read that if the pump is not draining the tub completely, there is an interlock that prevents the high speed spin from engagin. I have had debris caught in my pump several times (kids!!) with similar issues. There is a trap on the line leading from the tub to the pump which is "supposed" to capture debris, but it doesn't work all that well. Check your pump.....

Posted on Dec 23, 2007

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Kenmore front load washer will not spin

Although I had just cleaned the filter about 5 weeks ago, my wife had recently washed a pillow that came apart in the wash. I did not know this but noticed the clothes dripping wet after the high speed cycle. I was thinking it was the drain problem like I read in the post from bluefuzz. I pulled the filter and it was LOADED full. Before calling the repairman, CHECK YOUR FILTER! You won't need to disconnect any hoses.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 front load washer. All cycle lights flashing plus spin and clothes clean lights on.

I'm sure this is probably too late, but hopefully it will help some else. I just had the same problem. First, unplug the power. Then take the lower front panel off and grabbed a bucket. Place the bucket under the large "plug" on your right. This is the drain. Slowly unscrew the drain plug, Hold your nose as it will probably smell. Allow the water and such to drain into the bucket. When you see the blob of wet lint drop into the bucket you will know why the machine refused to work. Make sure you clean the drain plug and screw it back in tightly. Put the lower panel back on and reconnect the power. I hope this resolves your issue.

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

GodBlessU
  • 3513 Answers

SOURCE: Haier Top Load Washer doesn't spin

Hi
There can be two possibilities,one if it has a belt, it is either stretched or slipping or if it doesnt have a belt then there is a clutch like device between the motor and the basket, which is either broke or cracked.
Or follow this easy steps...
Unplug the washer and turn off the water faucets.
Disconnect the water hoses and the drain hose and pull the washer away from the wall, leaving yourself enough room to work behind the appliance.
Lay an old towel down to kneel on and soak up any water that leaks from the hoses.
Remove the rear access panel.
Locate the motor. The rubber drive belt goes around a pulley wheel attached to the motor.
Press on the belt. If it gives more than ¾ inch or so, it needs to be tightened.
Loosen the mounting nut for the motor and push the entire motor to increase the tension on the belt.
Hold the motor in place and tighten the mounting nut.
Make sure you don't tighten the belt too much or it will break. You should be able to press on it and feel it give just slightly.
Replace the drive belt if it shows signs of wear.

Thanks for contacting fixya.com

Posted on Oct 13, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks! I guess you're right. The belt seems to be too loose and shows signs of wearing. Already ordered new one. Thanks again!"

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1 Answer

Drum does not spin centered, it is rubbing the seal


This isn't good. it's normally related to the tub bearing or spider brace on the inner/ outer tub. Both parts tend to be very costly. If its under a year old you will be covered in warranty.. if not it maybe time for a new machine. I have seen this on washer's as little as 14 month old. I'm not a front load washer fan because of this problem.

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This is caused by the biomass built up inside the tub of the machine. This can also be caused by a moldy door boot. You need to scrub your door boot between the tub and the door. Water settles in the bottom of it and molds. Once you clean this, order affresh washer cleaner for your machine. This kills all the biomass built up in the tub and removes the smell. You will put all three tablets in the drum and run on the longest hottest wash available. When this is completed your machine should smell much better. To keep this from getting so bad again... Keep the washer door cracked open between cycles. This keeps the inside from smelling. Hope this helps

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You have more serious problem than just your drum seal. The support arms in the wash tub are broken. The wash tub should always spin true. When it wobbles it is a sure sign that the suport arms or spider arms are broken. It is an expensive repair since the wash drum, the outer plastic tub and the door seal need to be replaced. Check your warranty, to see if some of these repairs can be covered. Get a few estimates before deciding whether to repair or replace it. Sorry.

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We have a Maytag Epic Z front load washing machine that is making a loud metallic noise during the spin cycle. The noise migrates radially around the tub as the drum spins. It sounds like pocket change...


You better not to separate the inner and outer tubs as it's quite a job and takes a lot of effort.
Try to remove the heater on the very bottom of the front half of the outer tub. From outside it looks like an oval metal piece with a terminal on each side, a nut (or screw) in the center and a plug with 2 wires coming to it. UNPLUG THE WASHER as the heater is connected to the hot wire all the time.
Remove the nut (or screw) in the center of the heater and pull the heater out. Now you have a nice opening in the bottom between the tubs. There is a heater bracket, made of a thick wire inside. Make sure not to damage it when trying to remove whatever there is inside. Make sure the heater is aligned in the bracket when assembling it back together.

Good luck.

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Have you tried to clean the drain hose on the back of the washer? It may have build up inside that you are loosening up by using bleach.

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Why?Do you understand that the bearings are locked into the outer tub and you have to replace that,the outer tub.Very expensive repair that will most likely be almost half the price you had paid for the machine new.My advise is DONT FIX this if you have a bearing problem ,because I honestly believe in letting the customer know the truth.Sorry, but a 15 year old re- conditioned Maytag will out last any Neptune ever made.

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you have a three armed support that holds the tub in place, this is not an easy fix, you would have to be very knowledgable of appliances and how to work on them to replace this. Basically one of your supports have either broken or the bolt has come lose. If you release the baffles inside the tub you should be able to see the mounting bolts for the support and you would be able to check the tightness of the bolts or whether or not the mount is broken. If the mount is broken in won't be cheap to fix. Hope this helps.

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