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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I resolved my problem by taking apart the carborator and cleaning it. There were clogged passaged that had stuff come out of them when I used airisol carb cleaner to blow them out. I only had to make one gasket the carb mount gasket which is pretty basic only 5 holes.
It ran for the next 3 hours, ran fantastic!!!!!!
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
check to make sure your kill switch is not shorting and you have the right gap from the coil to the flywheel also if the flywheel sheer pin is damaged in the least this will cause a multitude of problems... it is the timing pin and must be in good shape not damaged or sheered ..any way reply to firstname.lastname@example.org and i will try to help you through this.... DALE good luck and will wait for reply..
Posted on Aug 29, 2009
Check the muffler and/or spark arrestor screen in the muffler outlet pipe and also the engine's exhaust port behind the muffler. These are prone to carbon-clogging and the engine cannot "BREATHE" enough to reach full throttle. If all-clear in the muffler, go back in the carb and locate the inlet screen directly opposite of the inlet needle. Carefully pull it out with a pick and hold it up to a light source. If you cannot see thru it, replace it. This is another, (less) common area of obstruction.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Oct 18, 2009
Yes you may need a carb kit. It is not good practice to by-pass the fuel filter. The orifice in the jet is very small.
But anyways, There Could still be a blockage inside the carb, a small leak at the manifold, or the jet is worn out.
Let me know how it goes.
Posted on Apr 28, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Echo gt200r
Sounds like you still have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor properly cleaned and rebuilt that should solve your starting problem.
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Posted on Jul 28, 2011
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