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Echo 265T trimmer 150 psi compression , new plug , new carb, new hoses and filter, Cleaned air port into block gasket are on correctly. Will start when fully choked will die when taken off?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: st185 Homelite string trimmer starts then dies

I resolved my problem by taking apart the carborator and cleaning it. There were clogged passaged that had stuff come out of them when I used airisol carb cleaner to blow them out. I only had to make one gasket the carb mount gasket which is pretty basic only 5 holes.
It ran for the next 3 hours, ran fantastic!!!!!!

Posted on Jun 14, 2009

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: stihl line trimmer starts but won't stay running

check to make sure your kill switch is not shorting and you have the right gap from the coil to the flywheel also if the flywheel sheer pin is damaged in the least this will cause a multitude of problems... it is the timing pin and must be in good shape not damaged or sheered ..any way reply to mrdmburns@cableone.net and i will try to help you through this.... DALE good luck and will wait for reply..

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

Dolfoff
  • 148 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Echo PB/251 Gas Blower which I recently

Check the muffler and/or spark arrestor screen in the muffler outlet pipe and also the engine's exhaust port behind the muffler. These are prone to carbon-clogging and the engine cannot "BREATHE" enough to reach full throttle. If all-clear in the muffler, go back in the carb and locate the inlet screen directly opposite of the inlet needle. Carefully pull it out with a pick and hold it up to a light source. If you cannot see thru it, replace it. This is another, (less) common area of obstruction.

Hope this helps,
Dolf-

Posted on Oct 18, 2009

redbeard00
  • 957 Answers

SOURCE: my cub cadet tank stops running 5-20 minuts after

Yes you may need a carb kit. It is not good practice to by-pass the fuel filter. The orifice in the jet is very small.
But anyways, There Could still be a blockage inside the carb, a small leak at the manifold, or the jet is worn out.
Let me know how it goes.

Posted on Apr 28, 2010

hunter19_46m
  • 7482 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Echo gt200r

Hi bdtyler72...
Sounds like you still have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor properly cleaned and rebuilt that should solve your starting problem.
This is a FREE answer,Please take time to rate me

Posted on Jul 28, 2011

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2 Answers

I have PAS225 ECHO weed eater. will start easy but will only rev up when operating the choke. Has no power


You still have a clogged jet in the carb or a restricted fuel flow, where that is a mystery right now.

Jan 26, 2017 | Echo Garden

1 Answer

I have a psa 225 echo weed eater. The engine readily starts but will only rev up using the choke lever back and forth. No power. What's my problem?


Carb or filter
. replace fuel filter in tank while checking both pickup and return fuel lines.
remove carb and disassemble cleaning all parts with carb cleaner and some soft air blow . look for small screen its round and about 1/4 round in carb these are so small that the gas that's available gells and plugs the openings . try to use non-ethonal high octane gas and use echo 2cycle oil .

Jan 26, 2017 | Echo Garden

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SRM 2400 trimmer. Why doesn't it start?


Ralph, if you are getting fuel, spark and have compression , I suspect the muffler screen is plugged. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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Apr 17, 2016 | Echo Garden

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Echo PB 251 won't run. replaced plug, gas, fuel filter, air filter. took carb a part, and cleaned with carb cleaner, used the compressed cleaner to clean out venturis/ports.


Wow! with all you have done it should run. Be sure the switch is on but if you are getting spark, it should be on. I would take it to the echo place for service.

May 14, 2015 | Echo Garden

1 Answer

I have a SRM2100 trimmer, it will not run unless the choke is full on and of course after it runs in this mode a little while, it fouls the plug and quits. I cleaned the carb, installed new kit, new...


hi there jaybolt

here is a website for parts

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=echo&mn=SRM-2100+Type+1+S%2FN%3A+001001+-+159490

all being well and compression and spark and timming , muffler is clear , carby is clean , and diaphrams are all ok you mention carb rebuilt , fresh mix , and fuel filter and lines are good

does the unit run with 2 stroke mix in the plug hole - then stop ?
if yes assume compression and spark are ok,, if no check compression and spark and muffler

will the unit run with 2 stroke mix sprayed into the carby throat, then stop ?

if it does sounds like you have a air leak somewhere in the intake system

could be at barrel base gasket, c/case joint, manifold boot/ block gasket, carby gasket , impulse hose ,if this unit has one , c/case main seals leaking

2 strokes need air tight c/cases in order to pump fuel / air / oil mixture from c/case to cylinder
and to create a vacuum for entry of fuel/ air / oil mix from carb to c/case

symptoms of air leak are -: hard to start, wont idle, stalling, low power, inconsistant idle, over rev
overheat

pressure and vacuum testing can be done by blocking off intake and exhaust with rubber and metal plates , then fitting adapter to spark plug hole , and placing piston at bdc , pressureise cylinder to 7 to 8 psi of pressure and check areas , base gasket, manifold joint, main seals, , impulse hose ? for leaks with soapy water - if leaking bubbles will be evident

if no leaks and pressure is held at 7 psi for at least 2 minutes with dropping - presure test is good
next do the same test using vaccuum again go to 20 - 30 inch / vaccuum

if vaccuum held unit is ok

suggest take a good look at carby and recheck its rebuilt correctly and setup particularly if P and V test are good and spark coil tests good with a coil load test using a spark gap of 6.00 mm to stress the coil ( simulates spark under compression load)

have a look and let me know what you find

cheers pauly46

Jul 03, 2011 | Echo Garden

1 Answer

Tanaka TBC 160- very hard to start, any suggestions for possible reasons? Replaced the gas mix but it starts up & then stops running. tried new gas mix, checked throttle- seems to operate, Any...


hi there

paul 46 here.

all being well and compression and spark and timming , muffler is clear , carby is clean , and diaphrams are all ok , fresh mix , and fuel filter and lines are good

does the unit run with 2 stroke mix in the plug hole - ?
if yes assume compression and spark are ok,, if no check compression and spark and muffler

will the unit run with 2 stroke mix sprayed into the carby throat ?

if it does sounds like you have a air leak somewhere in the intake system

could be at barrel base gasket, c/case joint, manifold boot/ block gasket, carby gasket , impulse hose ,if this unit has one , c/case main seals leaking

2 strokes need air tight c/cases in order to pump fuel / air / oil mixture from c/case to cylinder
and to create a vacuum for entry of fuel/ air / oil mix from carb to c/case

symptoms of air leak are -: hard to start, wont idle, stalling, low power, inconsistant idle, over rev
overheat

pressure and vacuum testing can be done by blocking off intake and exhaust with rubber and metal plates , then fitting adapter to spark plug hole , and placing piston at bdc , pressureise cylinder to 7 to 8 psi of pressure and check areas , base gasket, manifold joint, main seals, , impulse hose ? for leaks with soapy water - if leaking bubbles will be evident

if no leaks and pressure is held at 7 psi for at least 2 minutes with dropping - presure test is good
next do the same test using vaccuum again go to 20 - 30 inch / vaccuum

if vaccuum held unit is ok

suggest take a good look at carby particularly if P and V test are good and spark coil tests good with a coil load test using a spark gap of 6.00 mm to stress the coil ( simulates spark under compression load)

have a look and let me know what you find

cheers pauly46

Apr 30, 2011 | Tanaka Commercial Grade "Inspire" Design...

1 Answer

Im a small engine tech im working on a echo pb251 it has spark and getting fuel but will not start, even sprayed carb cleaner in cylinder and it will not fire any ideas


have you checked the muffler and ex port for carbon / blockage?


have you checked the timming key ?

does the unit have enough compression ? by enough i mean 100 psi or above is considered
the btm limit

does the machine fire on 2 stroke mix , if you pour some in plug hole ?

will it fire again if you spray into carb throat with the carb on ?

is the spark still there while under compression pressure ( test using spark tester ) connect between h t lead and spark plug, you should see it spark and jump a 6.00 mm gap to pass a spark load test

if the unit does not fire with mix in plug hole suspect compression ?

if the unit does not fire with mix sprayed into carb throat - suspect a induction problem

ie a air leak either around carb, manifold , or intake boot ( if it has one ), base gasket , crank seals or impluse hose or cracked insulator if it has one

either way i think you will need to pressure & vacuum test crankcases for leaks

you will need to block off intake and ex and put in a air adapter inthe plug hole to connect a pressure or vacuum tester

place piston @ bdc and pressurize to 7 -8 psi check around areas as above of leaks with soapy water , you will see bubbles where a leak is , but the pressure remains constant for at least 2 minutes thats good , the use a vaccuum tester and apply 20 - 30 inches vaccuum to c/cases
vaccuum should hold if not use crc or soapy water to find where uit is

a 2 stroke will exhibit symptoms such as ,revs out far too much ( lean ) overspeed -
very hard to start, or no start , run hot , have low power , stall if trying to idle or seem to raise their idle speed up and down , cannot get reliable hi / lo adjustments set on carb

2 strokes need air tight cases to create vacuum and pressure pulses to pump mixture to cylinder and to operate the carb fuel pump diaphrams


remember this F A C T S

F = Fuel

A = Air

C = Compression

T = Timming

S = Spark


cheers pauly 46
hope it helps

Apr 12, 2011 | ECHO, Inc. PB-251C Handheld Blower

1 Answer

I have an etco chainsaw that will only start on the choke and stops almost immediately. The carb has been cleaned and a new diaphram fitted. A new fuel filter has also been fitted and spark plug. The spark...


Basics to check:
1) Spark plug - brown or dark brown - OK
- aluminum or silver - piston/cylinder scored
a) is it carbon or fuel fouled
b) is there spark

2) Compression - 125 to 150 psi

3) Muffler remove for inspection
a) exhaust screen clean or plugged
b) inspect cylinder wall/piston as the flywheel is slowly rotated

Fuel starvation - 'lean fuel' condition
Basic things to check:
1) spark plug
2) spark arrestor in muffler
3) fuel lines and tank filter
4) turn adjustment needles out (counterclockwise) 1/4 to 1/2 turn
ChainSaws:
5) check impulse tube and intake boot for cracks or leaks

*if all of the above are OK and/or do not improve performance then:
Remove Carburetor
6) replace gaskets/diaphragms
a) use a spray carb cleaner to clean jets, holes, and body of carb
b) fuel pump diaphragm goes against the carb body,
then the gasket towards the outside
c) metering gasket goes against the carb body,
and the diaphragm goes towards the outside

Please double check the gasekts/diaphragms for proper installation

Nov 12, 2009 | Echo 30.1CC Chainsaw With a 14 In.bar and...

1 Answer

Hedgetrimmer is not starting easily and when started is either running rough or stalls


  • might pay to check sounds like the unit has a air leak

either at carb gasket , manifold block or intake boot or impulse hose or base gasket or crankcase seals particularly if carby is good and compression and spark are good and muffler is clear and fuel lines and breather and fuel filter are all ok

symptoms of air leak are - hard to start, inconsistant idle
ineffective carb adjustments - stalling , no power , rough running- over revving

this might pay to have done at local service shop unless you have poper tools to block off ports and pressure and vacuum test unit ?

cheers paul46 hope it helps

Aug 05, 2009 | Garden

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