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How to get the plastic cover and band spring on over the clutch

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Rusty clutch springs

Stainless will prevent the rust, as we already know. Never personally heard of the stainlees springs failing though but I could imagine it. It would be highly unlikely that more than one would go at a time and even if one does break it can still be ridden quite easily. Way long enough to get a replacement. IMO you should get a 'full' pressure plate to cover the plates as they can develop surface rust which some people don't like the look of.

Posted on Nov 10, 2008

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spekgt
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SOURCE: chain brake band will not release to replace the clutch cover

Hi there
Sometimes that's not an easy job . I work for a Husqvarna dealer and I have that problem frequently . First try to get the clutch cover on place (do not use the bolts) and push in @ the top part of the clutch cover , then try to move the clutch lever backwards to release the band (better if done with two people) . If that does not work the only way is remove the clutch lever with the 2 bolts on each side and put the lever on the clutch cover (top metal piece that looks like a clover)to release the band (again with 2 people one holds the clutch cover and the other one the lever pulling the lever backwards) .
Hope this help
Hope this help

Posted on Sep 03, 2009

  • 105 Answers

SOURCE: spring secured rollers inside cover dropped out

You can repair it if, you know how to mold and work plastic. Or, you may be able to use small screws if you don't mind the ugly. Personally, I would replace the cover. If your printer is under warranty, this may be a defect in their design. Try calling Brother to find out if they'll fix it for nothing.

Posted on Dec 04, 2009

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SOURCE: How do you replace the cover that has the

You need to load the brake, it has obviously activated and the band is now smaller than the drum, if the hand guard is connected to the brake, clamp the side cover in a vive, be carefull not to damage the cover, now pull the hand guard fully back, it will take some force as it is compressing a large spring, it will click when the brake loads, if the hand gaurd is on the machine not the brake, remove the hand guard from the machine and use this as a tool to fit into the brake, with the cover in a vice pull the hand guard fully back until it clicks. the cover should now fit back onto the saw.

Posted on Apr 10, 2011

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1 Answer

Plastic smell and smoke


The plastic smell is most likely the friction material on the clutch due to overheating. A defective throwout bearing or broken clutch spring can cause this issue. Excessive heat in the clutch system may also damage parts that would effect pedal height.
*Remove the inspection cover on the the transmission and look for signs of black dust, broken clutch springs or metal shavings, and discoloration on the flywheel.

Jan 11, 2014 | 2007 Subaru Forester 2.5

1 Answer

2006 yz 125 with heavy clutch . I have oiled the cable but no difference . Would it have stiffer springs in the clutch , and how would I check this


Its possible that you have an aftermarket clutch and springs in it. The best way to know for sure,is to pull the clutch cover off the bike,and pull the springs and measure the height and spring tension.Be sure to tap the clutch cover with a plastic mallet SOFTLY and rotate the cover while pushing down before removing it.this keeps the rubber o-ring from popping out,...which is a PAIN to get back in if it slips out.
Good Luck!

Oct 02, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How doe the band on my chain break attach to my chainsaw mine is broken and i do not know how to install it. or how to get the clutch off so i can replace it


It can be a little tricky!

If you are referring to chain break band

Tools you will need:
1/2 Socket (to remove bar nuts)
T25(torq) or you can use a Flathead screw driver but is a little harder.

Remove 2 bar nuts,Clutch cover,bar,chain, 2 screws on black bar handle right behind clutch cover(this is needed because there is a hidden screw there for the chain break) You will need a new chain brake (my guess is that it is part # 530071893 aprox $15) but you will want to verify that with your model number.

You should see the chain break assembly, 3 - T25 screws are visible after the clutch cover is removed(note sometimes you have to clean saw dust to make screw head visible) the other T25 screw is hidden under the black bar handle. Once you remove all 4 screws on the chain brake you will be able to pull it off.

Installing the new one is the tricky part because if it is set(or break is on) you will have a hard time putting it on.One of the easiest ways is to focus on it near the muffler you will see that a metal 3 pronged gear fits into the plastic part of the chain break handle.and if the band is too tight to fit over the clutch drum you will have to carefully reset it by applying pressure onto the area that has the 3 pronged gear and chain break handle make sure that the handle is pushed forward all the way while you apply pressure then slowly pull chain break handle back till you hear a "snap" this resets the chain brake spring and the band should now fit over the clutch drum.Now, proceed with putting back together 4 chain brake assembly screws,2 handle screws,and bar,chain,clutch cover,and 2 bar nuts.

Please note it is important that you apply quite a bit of pressure onto chain break area where metal (3 pronged) gear fits into handle while resetting or when you reset it the metal part can cut into and damage the plastic piece in the chain break handle.

You can see a breakdown here: http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Poulan-Parts/Chainsaw-Parts/Model-P4018WT/1324/1503220/P0506041/00002?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=P4018WT

Hope this helps!

Feb 20, 2011 | Poulan 18" Wild Thing Chainsaw

1 Answer

I have a 445 chainsaw and am having reinstalling the clutch cover\r\n Any suggestions?


If you have taken the cover off with the brake actuated, or the brake has actuated whilst its been off, then the brake band is now smaller than the drum it is trying to fit over, you need to load the brake, this can be done by inserting a pin spanner / long nose pliers, into the three legged quadrant situated in the cover ( where the plastic hand guard fits into the cover when installed ) it will be quite hard to turn it ( clockwise as you look at it ) because it is compressing the brake spring, once you here a click it will be loaded, it should now fit back on the saw.

Jan 26, 2011 | Husqvarna Garden

1 Answer

KENMORE MODEL 110.20842990 MAKES LOAD BANGING NOISE DURING SPIN CYCLE EVEN WHEN EMPTY. NOISE IS LOWER ON SOFT SPIN THAN ON FAST


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20842990&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

In order of difficulty, there are three possibilities.

1. It's possible that the Motor Coupler is worn / broken.

This is a three part plastic and rubber device that transmits power from the motor to the transmission. If it's worn and slipping you may hear the plastic pieces grinding against each other.

It's an easy repair.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=2e8e02b3755ab86d8e046bc88e9db27b

If the Coupler is worn, it's an easy and inexpensive fix.

Before going further, I'd check and verify that all the springs and vibration pads are in place.

See the following for where / how they attach.


https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


2. It may be the clutch bands have worn.

See the following for how to remove the pump, motor and transmission. The clutch is on top of the transmission. Sears has replacement clutch bands.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the drive tube and brake to change clutch bands.

3. If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch, it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

Jun 11, 2010 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer 110 makes grinding noice only at first of spin cycle. is it the clutch?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

In order of difficulty, there are three possibilities.

1. It's possible that the Motor Coupler is worn / broken.

This is a three part plastic and rubber device that transmits power from the motor to the transmission. If it's worn and slipping you may hear the plastic pieces grinding against each other.

It's an easy repair.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=2e8e02b3755ab86d8e046bc88e9db27b

If the Coupler is worn, it's an easy and inexpensive fix.

2. It may be the clutch bands have worn.

See the following for how to remove the pump, motor and transmission. The clutch is on top of the transmission. Sears has replacement clutch bands.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the drive tube and brake to change clutch bands.

If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch, it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.


Mar 12, 2010 | Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

6 Answers

I have a Husqvarna 345e chainsaw. Can't get the cover back on.


That metal band you see which is preventing you from putting on the cover is part of the chain break mechanism. You were suppose to disengage the break before taking off the cover (I did the same thing). To get it back together you need to disengage the break by a tricky procedure and that will make the band diameter larger so it fits over the clutch. To force the band open, you need to first place the cover over the two bolts that hold the bar. As you already know, the back of the cover will not be able to fit over the clutch. Now in this angled position, bend (force) the break lever down (gray thing on top) until you can force together the sproket in the cover onto the mating pastic fitting built into the break lever. Now you can use the break lever to force down the internal spring and open the metal band. That will expand the stainless steel band and it will fit around the clutch. If you now push down on the back of the cover it will snap in over the clutch. Once you see how it is done, it is not so hard, but it is tricky because you are forcing some of the parts slightly out of position to get it back together. .

May 18, 2009 | Husqvarna "Chain Saw - 16" Bar, 3 Hp

3 Answers

Fix bar brake on homelite timberman 45


It's a design flaw in timberman chain saws. After some hours of use, they develop a bad habit of not releasing the clutch drum completely. And that takes precious power away from the saw. If it becomes too tight, the clutch drum may over heat and cause the plastic enclosure to warp or melt down. After messing with this brake for months, I ended up completely removing it. Replacing it was not an option for me - there was nothing to replace - it is not the brake band that's bad, but the mechanism in the brake handle of this saw that is flawed. Overall, this chainsaw is very cheaply built - Homelite used waaaay too much plastic in it!

Oct 12, 2008 | Homelite Consumer Products 9.0 Amp, 14 In....

2 Answers

Removing the back to change battery


The plastic wrist band doesn't have to be cut away. You need to dislodge the spring-loaded end of the pin from the hole in the plastic with the blade of a sharp thin knife.

The you proceed to lift one of the 4 snaps to open the cover. The battery is under a white translucent inside cover.

The original battery was Sony SR621SW.

Pay attention to the rubber seal ring when putting the watch back together.

Jan 13, 2008 | Casio MQ24-7B2 Wrist Watch

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