When the washer was set on rinse and spin 20 Minutes , the drum would not spin fast, it would spin slow and sometimes speed up a little and it would take about 2 1/2 to 3 hours for the timer to count down from 20 minutes down to 1 minute and never finish the cycle when the GREEN light was on spin. Everything worked normally, had a code but went away after washer reset.
sounds like maybe drain filter is plugged and unit is not draining fast enough. if you have drain access in front pull it out and clean it.
Testimonial: "Thank you for your input, but unfortunately this is not my issue."
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""""""""SOLUTION""""""""
"""""""UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE AC OUTLET"""""""
ALWAYS USE CAUTION AND COMMON SENSE WHEN WORKING AROUND ELECTRIC AND WATER. This should work for several Kenmore front loader washers and models.... The problem is the wire harness that goes to the washer drum motor. There are two connectors, one BLUE and one WHITE, the BLUE connector is for the motor and the WHITE connector is for the stator. These connectors are located on the back of the washer to the left after removing the back panel. These connectors have a plastic bag over them to keep them dry. ( FOR ME, MY PROBLEM WAS THE WHITE WIRE ON THE WHITE CONNECTOR, THE WIRE HAD BROKEN BECAUSE IN THE FACTORY WHEN THEY WERE MAKING THE WIRE HARNESS THEY MADE PERFECT CIRCLE CUTS AROUND THE WIRES "SO CALLED STRESS CUTS" TO PREVENT WIRE BREAKAGE, BUT ALL IT DID WAS MAKE THE WIRE BREAK EASIER), the break was where the harness came down to the bottom of the washer, it rests on a plastic clip with a wire tie holding it to the plastic clip. "THIS IS WHERE MY HARNESS HAD THE BROKEN WHITE WIRE", it broke because they did not leave enough room for the harness to flex when the drum was spinning. Remove the damper/rotor its ONE CENTER BOLT,( was easier for me to get the connector off ) be careful when removing the connectors from the motor and stator. Disconnect the harness from both the blue and white connectors, from the motor side, and the zip tie holding the harness to the plastic clip on the bottom of the washer. There are also 3 plastic clips holding the wires stationary with 3 Philips screws. Use an ohms meter to check for wire breakage, FLEX THE WIRES WHEN CHECKING THEM TO MAKE SURE THERE IS NO BREAKAGE, remove the white tape, easier to cut it "( CAREFULLY )", and visually inspect the wires.
"""""MY WIRE REPAIR"""""
I cut the wire back and soldered in a short wire extension, ( Same gauge or bigger not smaller ), and used heat shrink wrap to protect and seal the wire from moisture and shorting out. Use a good 3M electrical tape to re-wrap the two harnesses together and don't forget to put the connectors back in the plastic bag!!!!! If no problem is found check the rest of the harness going to the power control board. This fix should get your washer up and running again.
""""""ALWAYS USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING AROUND ELECTRIC AND WATER, BE SMART""""""
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