When I went into the shop last evening the unit was running and there was a bad electrical smell in the shop. I tried to shut it down but could not. I could make it run faster but not stop it.
I removed the control board but do not see any toasted components.
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That unit is a very heavy duty machine that uses ionization to clean air. There is a high voltage power supply that is used to generate ions. The unit can release ozone and that substance has a definite smell to it. If you have ever been near a copy machine or an electric motor that sparks, you would smell ozone. The concern is whether or not it is ozone. Ozone is regulated by the manufacturers to be held at a permissible level because at high concentrations it is an irritant and can cause respiratory issues by itself. The power unit for that air cleaner is on the top near the back and you can run the machine for a while to see if that area gets hot. That would be a bad sign. All the documentation is here: http://electronicaircleaners.com/f50f1032parts.aspx But if you don't trust the unit, take it or send it back.
I had similar issues and by replacing the 2200 micro (Mu) Farad, 10 Volt capacitor on the PCB, all of my issues ceased.
Below is a link with information supplied by "fixya" that explains the procedure/details.
Hopefully this will solve your current issues.
PS Linda Haus of "Rockler" Technical Support was kind enough to supply me with this link.
That's interesting... I doubt it is the filter if the new filter did the same. It might help if you take a fan and blow it through the area behind the filter, or maybe even spraying some Lysol in it, because my best guess is that something inside the purifier is what is causing the smell. Hope this helps!
compressed air , you might try bringing it to a electric motor repair
shop or a auto shop and ask real nice if they would be nice enough to
give your fan a shot of air. a weed blower will work also but not even
close to the job of compressed air. last resort is to take it apart
totaly and use soapy water and a scrub brush. do not get the motor wet !
and oil the bearings on the motor with zoom spout oil #D01.. and you
can milk your favorite fan out for many,many years .. this way is like
cheating death! ... jay the pool pump motor repair guy in longwood fl
The product is no longer supported. Consumer Reports ran a report on ionizers and showed that the machine wasn't effective. Sharper Image sued and lost forcing the company into bankruptcy. The company recalled the units.
I just bought the same model and also have the smell. My previous one did not so I returned the first unit and the second units smells the same. I called Sears Customer Support and they told me that it is probably due to the factory smoke test they do on each unit. He said let it run for a few days and it should dissapate. I went a step further and am trying a new filter and if this works he said call the store and they will get me a new filter.
Check the capacitors. There are two to look for, one on the
motor, the other on the PC controller board. STEP ONE: Unplug the unit and
support it on a table.
STEP TWO: remove the controller board from the exhaust
side of the unit by unscrewing the screws holding the cover to the unit. Unplug
the motor wire harness by pressing down on the white retaining clip. They go
only one way, but it doesn’t hurt to note which is which.
STEP THREE: Unbolt
the ground wire from the face plate and the whole board should come out.
Unscrew the four screws holding the PC board. Look for a little foam pad that will drop out. Remember where to replace it. Screws and capacitor may have blue locktite on them.
STEP FOUR: Find the capacitor. It’s the part that looks like a tootsie roll,
black with two wires coming out one side. It’s between the CPU chip and the big
red square block. If it looks bloated, burnt or melted, you found the problem.
Replace it with a 1000 microfarad (1000 uf/ 10 volt) ten volt capacitor with a
radial lead. About $5 for the part at most electronic parts stores. Careful
desoldering the old capacitor to avoid damaging the PC board. WATCH THE
POLARITY. There is a negative and positive side. The negative side has a
chevron (<) mark and is marked on the PC board. On mine the negative side
was nearest the black micro chip and the positive side was towards the red JEFU
MPE part. Use a little bolt-tite on the screws of the PC board and some on the capacitor on the PC board to limit vibration. Reinstall the board, plug it in and give it a whirl.
If no joy, STEP FIVE: Find the motor start capacitor. It is bolted near the motor, black about
1x 2 x 4 and has two red wires coming out of it. Take a battery operated
resistance meter on a setting of R x 100 or higher. Charge the capacitor by
connection one lead of the tester to one red wire and the other lead to the
second red wire. You may have to strip the wire to make contact. Next reverse the leads and you should see the needle jump. Do
it a third time incase the first try was discharging. If no needle jumping,
replace capacitor. Couldn’t find this locally. May have to by directly from JET
Recommend you hard crimp wire splices if cutting off the
motor capacitor. .You can check the windings on the motor too. Check for
continuity between the white-yellow-blue-black wires of the motor harness. Any
combination should work. If not, motor shot, time for some bigger bucks nrepair.