Question about Sewing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Tension issue
If you set the tension from 3of 4 to 1 you actually lowered the tension. To increase the tension you must set the tension to 6 or higher. Be carefull not the set the bobbin case tension to tight as this will also have negative results
If suggest the following: First lower the bobbin case tension, half a turn. Then increase the top tension to 6 and see if there is any difference.
If you do this systematically you should rectify your problem.
Good Luck
Posted on Jan 21, 2008
SOURCE: Need manual for Huskylock 580
Not free solution but a quick one:
http://www.manualsnguides.com/search.php?cmarque=HUSQVARNA&modele=HUSKYLOCK%20580%20ED
Posted on Feb 14, 2009
SOURCE: HUSKYLOCK 901
Sometimes the thread tension needs to be cleaned out. I put a smal screw driver in where the silver tension guides are (between the dials) and open them up and wiggle them a little bit.
If the machine is cutting theads and or not catching threads on the back the timing may need to be adjusted.
What type of stitch are you trying to do?
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
SOURCE: MegaQuilter Tension
Try at least 2 new needles first (HLX5, preferably Schmetz). If same, look for any rough edges on the needle plate and feed dog cover.
Beyond that, this does not sound like you are doing anything wrong. You should take your machine in for adjustment by an authorized technician. You should have about 1/2 to 1 full turn of the upper tension knob between too loose/ugly on back and too tight/breaking on the top.
Posted on May 12, 2009
SOURCE: I have a new Viking
How do you mean the tension are off? A serger should have 3 or 4 tension knobs (although yours looks like it is push button digital settings) and generally from new these will produce a standard stitch when all are set to 5. Are you sure that you've got the thread pulled into the tension discs fully? Check each one by pulling on the thread below the tension disc and feel for resistance, if the thread pulls very easily, then recheck and thread again.
Have you got the thread aerial raised up to the full height? Remember also to put the plastic cone holders under the thread cones as you want the cone to stay still and the thread to feed off it - it does this very fast, sergers sew at 1500 stitches per minute so the thread streams off the cones very quickly.
Using a serger is quite different to a sewing machine and your model looks like its one of the later computerised ones with multiple stitch options including coverstitch. I'd suggest that you go back to your dealer and ask to spend time with them for a demo, thread up in front of them for pointers or take a class to familiarise yourself fully with the machine. Then go home again, break out the manual, and go through threading up from scratch several times until you've got it off pat. Remember to thread top looper, bottom looper, left needle, right needle in this sequence always, then pull all threads under the foot, lower pressure foot and serge off a short chain. To change colour thread, you can always cut and knot on new threads, turn tension down and pull through the loopers, but you've got to thread the needles fresh each time you change colour.
There is some good videos on You-tube, Nancy Zieman has a several and she's also written several books on using a serger and obviously the manual is first point of reference.
Each fabric will behave differently so for each new fabric, you will need to adjust tensions and move the blade to get it stitch and just encasing the cut edge at a suitable width. To work out how it should look, break out some ready to wear garments and have a look at those seams, then test and practice with your machine to get a similar stitch. Always test serge two thickenesses if you are going to use it to construct your garments and pull open from the right side to ensure the needle thread is tight enough so the seams don't pull open under wear.
Good idea to keep your test seam samples in a notebook and write down the settings you used for reference next time. I have to say, I've done flatlock with silky decorative thread once in 19 years - but I do know how to set up the machine for this. However, rolled hem with wooly thread is very useful and I often use this to edge hems. I'm envious of your coverstitch option, this is great for hemming and necklines and is something early sergers didnt do.
Just checked out this model on an Ebay vendor's site and it mentions a training DVD, you've got several different stitch types to master with this machine so there will be some learning and practice involved to get it right. Good luck - I hope this is of some help but I'd be visiting the dealer for specific help if you can.
Posted on Apr 30, 2011
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