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What's the problem when the machine stops on the wash cycle and the clothes are not waste?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: washing machine stops mid-cycle and full of water

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean. There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.

Rate me pl.....if helped.

Posted on Jan 06, 2008

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jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Washing machine stops in rinse cycle.

Okay...I asked you a question in your other posting before I saw this one. This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plunger on the lid itself. Make sure the plunger is not broken off. This will also keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions please let me know by posting comments.

Posted on Feb 11, 2008

SOURCE: GE Front Loading Washing Machine seems to be holding water....

manual

Posted on Mar 21, 2008

IrishDruid
  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore frontload washing machine doesn't spin

If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

  • If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.


  • If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

  • The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.


  • The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.


  • A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)


  • The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.


  • The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.


  • The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.


  • The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.


It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

  • 107 Answers

SOURCE: My clothe come out very wet at the end of the wash cycle

If the pump is clogged and can't release all the water it won't go into final high spin. Remove lower cover and locate coin catch and unscrew it. Water will come out, so be ready. If it's full of stuff, this is probably the problem.

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

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Hi Claire if your beko washing machine wont drain or has a spin problem then you have to check the carbon brushes first.

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It went through months of only getting to about 60, then solved itself.The ONLY time it does is when it is plumbed in from the hot AND cold feeds. You CAN feed the source from hot supply but it tends to be too hot!!! Things I have tried;
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I have had this problem before and called out an engineer. It happened again today and luckily I remembered what he did.

Have a bucket handy.

Switch machine off at mains, disconnect washing machine waste pipe, put a cloth/rag in the end of it to stop water leaking out, and bring it down to as low to the floor as you can.

Jiggle it a bit (to make the pipe bend and flex as much as you can).

Put hose in the end of the bucket, take out the rag, start a cycle (to allow water in) and press cancel to stop the cycle, it should now start to drain, but with lots of muck in it.

Once it drains, put the rag back in the waste pipe and empty the bucket.

Now really jiggle and flex the pipe as much as you can..without causing damage..I really shook it about..a bit like when you were younger and made a rope look like a snake!

Tag the rag out and place end of waste pipe back in the bucket.

Complete the process above again by starting a cycle to let some water in - for about 30 seconds - then cancel and allowing to drain..should see a lot more gunk.

If this hasn't worked you may need an engineer.

You can repeat process if you like. Although I stopped here.

Remember to reconnect and tighten your waste pipe.

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sounds like a bad lid switch ,check that-mike

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www.malberusa.com

61 Commercial Ave
Garden City, NY 11530
(516) 294-6660

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