Question about Heating & Cooling
First you have to make sure the blower motor is running. That is the fan motor on the indoor unit. If the fan inside is running and the filter is clean you are likely low on refrigerant. If the indoor fan is not running this would be the reason for the frost. If the unit is iced up turn the system to off and the fan to on on the tstat. This will help defrost the coil. Good Luck.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The capacitor is located inside the control panel on the outside unit. It is round or oval and silver in color.It runs the outdoor fan and the compressor both.
The terminals are marked= C, /F or fan/, H or herm. C-F-H.
The microfarad rating is printed on the capacitor. Make a color code wire diagram before removeing wires.
Disconnect power to the unit. Use a insulated screwdriver to short out the terminals on the capacitor before removing it.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
There may be a leak. You might try shutting it down and taking a look inside. On the other end, there may be something wrong with your components inside. The compressor outside is to provide coolant. Inside, the fans actually cool the air. Make sure all doors are on the blower downstairs, and if all else fails, call a technician. Good luck!
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
Trace the wires (small cable) going to the out door unit. This is your 24v control circuit. when it enters the outdoor unit it ties to wires routing through the inside of the unit trace these down. For AC units 1 usually goes directly to the "contactor" (the item you push in and the unit runs?) the other wire can also go to the other side of this same item. But I suspect it goes through other tings before it finally gets there.
Some items are the high and low pressure switches and a delay timer.
A red button sticking out where you can reset it is the high pressure switch and if it clicks and lets it come on you may have a dirty outdoor coil or a fan motor outdoor that is not operating all time.
A low pressure switch has no reset normally on AC or HP.
A delay timer will have 2 3 or 4 wires depending on the type of timer. 1 of these wires goes to the contactor (usually) and one of them feed this wire. remove the wire going to the contactor. now 1 at a time take the other timer wires and touch them to the wire just removed. if the times is bad the contactor will click when you touch one of them with the removed wire.
If its a heat pump you will have to make the contactor try to come on around the board. and this you will need some knowledge on which and what feeds your contactor. Here Id suggest a technician. If I had a way to see your setup and wiring I could talk you through this but its too hard to type and would take way too long.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
Condensation by the compressor is okay, but if you see it icing up thats reason for concern. The indoor coils can freeze up if there is not enough air flow. Make sure most if not all the registers are open. Take tempature readings at the return and at a supply vent. There should be a 20-28 degree difference. If the difference is only in the teens you have a functional problem. Be sure to shade direct sunlight. And if it gets below 65 degrees at night be aware that if the A\C runs through the night it may block up with ice in the evaporative area. If outside temp reaches 100 degrees unit will run all day. Good luck
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
Start the unit and go outside to see if the insulated pipe is sweating or cold, hot air should be discharging from top of outside unit. Since the breaker is not tripping, my best guess is the compressor is not operating. You might have to replace the capacitor.
If you can hear the compressor operating, then most
likely needs refrigerant
Posted on Jun 17, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for providing some additional clues and methods to pin down what needs replaced. Now I need to determine whether the run capacitor or the other part, for which I can't find the name, is at fault, unless the compressor is bad."
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