Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you are freezing up! The coils are so frost-laden that they will not allow the unit to function. The unit will need a complete defrost. I'm not familiar with the exact layout of this unit but I can tell you that it needs to be shut down, have warm air blown into the fan area and completely freed of ice. If you just leave it open and turned off, this takes about 2 days.
Possible causes: humidity in the air is condensing...very humid area, too much 'window shopping', not closing the door completely, possible damaged door gasket.
Others: (on older units)
Possible defrost timer problem...or low gas. Try the defrost route. We'll go from there.
Posted on Dec 04, 2007
SOURCE: my upside down fridge freezer
Beeping noise can be caused by door being ajar. Check product storage and make sure something is not preventing your door from fully closing.
Posted on Apr 29, 2008
SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel leaves film
the problem is hard water. www.dishwasherfilter.com has a new product out that solves this problem once and for all. it filters the water going into the dishwasher removing the hard minerals that leave those spots. it is very affordable and guaranteed to work or your money back. you will love the way your dishes look.
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel Freezer
Very possible the door was accidently left open for a period of time. When that happens, moisture latches on to different areas which inturn creates ice build up. In short, do a good defrost and then restart freezer again.
Posted on Oct 04, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you. Freezer defrosted and working again!"
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Posted on Oct 28, 2009
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