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Kawasaki FD661D. I changed the voltage regulator as my tests indicated was necessary. Still doesn't charge and now the engine won't quit when the key is turned off.

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1988 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan not charging


Hi, Wally before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
help 1500 not charging battery and other electrical issues
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Jul 29, 2017 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

I have a 2000 zx12r bike was not charging put a regulator on it now it is overcharging around 15v at idle regulator getting really hot someone has run new wires from regulator to battery any ideas


Hi, Daniel make sure the regulator has a good, clean, tight ground, the systems check below is geared towards Harley Davidson so exact numbers might differ slightly with book specs on your bike but the basic principal is the same, in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
99 ZX7R Alternator Overcharging
https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
Kawasaki NINJA ZX 12R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Owner Manuals Service Manuals Kawasaki Vehicles

Dec 10, 2016 | 2000 kawasaki ZX-12R

1 Answer

I own Kawasaki G2 zx-6r the battery after a while seems to loose it's charge (it's got a new battery) it seems just fine for quite a while then looses all its power ? Can you please help me


Hi, John first perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery and start the engine, if meter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the voltmeter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Battery draining ZX6R Forum
Free Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Manuals for download
kawasaki ninja zx 6r motorcycle parts
Owner Manuals Service Manuals Kawasaki Vehicles

Feb 07, 2016 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

Alternator or Voltage Regulator or Other?


You will need to test the charging system. Try this simple test, hook a voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage with the key turned off. Should be 12 volts. Now start the engine and note the volt meter reading at idle, it should go up to about 13.8 - 14.2 volts. Rev the engine up and note what happens. If the voltage is low at low RPM 12V and then goes up with more RPM like you stated it could be the regulator or the alternator. Start by switching out or trying another voltage regulator. If this does not fix the problem you will need to test and repair the alternator. The alternator out put can be tested by bypassing the regulator. This requires special equipment and know how. I hope this gets you

Jun 30, 2015 | Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing Motorcycles

1 Answer

2004 Kawasaki ZZR 600 charging system


Hi, Batman before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for a 32 amp system.
4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).
5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.
6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if passed step 2)
For more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
Test Your Battery in 10 Seconds Reliable Load Test with Only Multimeter
HOW TO CHECK YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM and CHANGING the STATOR and REGULATOR...
Kawasaki ZX 6R 2004 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
2004 Kawasaki ZZR600 Owner Manual

Dec 16, 2017 | 2004 kawasaki ZZR 600

1 Answer

P1409


DTC P1409: MEASURE RESISTANCE ACROSS EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1409 indicates that Self-Test has detected an electrical fault in the EVR circuit.

Possible causes:

Open EVR circuit.
Open VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
EVR circuit shorted to VPWR.
EVR circuit shorted to GND.
Damaged EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Key off.
Disconnect EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Measure EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid resistance.
Is solenoid resistance between 26 and 40 ohms?
Yes No
The EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid resistance is within specification. GO to HE111 . REPLACE EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN Quick Test.

HE111 CHECK VPWR CIRCUIT VOLTAGE AT EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID
Key on, engine off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Measure voltage between VPWR circuit at the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector and chassis GND.
Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to HE112 . SERVICE open in VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN Quick Test.

HE112 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
Key off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box and leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and EVR circuit at the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes No
GO to HE113 . SERVICE open in EVR circuit. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

HE113 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORTS TO POWER OR GROUND
Key off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Breakout box installed, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 71 and 97 (VPWR) at the breakout box.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 24 and 103 (PWR GND) at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE damaged PCM. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE EVR circuit for short to VPWR or PWR GND. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

HE120 CONTINUOUS MEMORY DTC P1409: WIGGLE EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID WHILE MONITORING VPWR
Continuous Memory DTC P1409 indicates that Continuous Memory Self-Test has detected an electrical malfunction in the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid sometime during vehicle operation.

Note: If DTC P1409 was output in Key On Engine Off (KOEO) or Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test, go to HE110 to diagnose present fault.

Possible causes:

Open EVR circuit.
Open VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
EVR circuit shorted to VPWR.
EVR circuit shorted to GND.
Damaged EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure voltage between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 24 (PWR GND) at the breakout box.
Key on.
Voltage must read greater than 10.5 volts. For an indication of a fault, look for this voltage to drop while performing the following:
Lightly tap on the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Wiggle the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid connector.
Grasp the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector and wiggle wires between solenoid and PCM.
Is a fault indicated?
Yes No
ISOLATE fault and SERVICE as necessary. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. Unable to duplicate or identify fault at this time. GO to Pinpoint Test Step Z1 with the following data: DPFEGR and EGRVR PIDs and list of possible causes.

Sep 25, 2011 | 2001 Mazda Tribute

1 Answer

The battery keeps dying on my kawasaki FD661D 22Hp what do I do to fix it?


Either it is not being charged while the engine is running, or there is a drain on it when the engine is not running, or it is shot and can not hold a charge. Check the voltage with nothing attached, should be about 12. Then attach it to the wiring and check the voltage when the engine is running, should be about 14. If the voltage is not higher with the engine running then there is no charging going on and your problem lies in the charging circuitry. If the voltage is higher, then you have something draining it while the engine is not running. Try unbolting the negative battery terminal when you are not using the mower. If it still loses charge between mowings, then your battery most likely is shot.

Mar 24, 2010 | Garden

2 Answers

1999 Kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja not starting after a run


My first check would be the battery to earth connection...... High resistance is a real no-no - strip, clean, re-attach to frame.

Nov 02, 2017 | 1999 kawasaki ZX-6R Ninja

1 Answer

Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not holding charge. What should stator be putting out on voltage meter? Voltage meter climbs as rpms go up, I would presume that this indicates stator ok? Bike...


First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Dec 30, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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