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Kawasaki FD661D. I changed the voltage regulator as my tests indicated was necessary. Still doesn't charge and now the engine won't quit when the key is turned off.

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1988 Kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan not charging


Hi, Wally before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
5. Stator Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
6. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from the regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from the regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads for viewing and printing that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
help 1500 not charging battery and other electrical issues
http://racetechelectric.com/files/pdf/rte_troubleshooting_flow_chart.pdf
Kawasaki VN1500 Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
http://mybikemanuals.com/kawasaki/kawasaki-vulcan-owners-manuals

Jul 29, 2017 | 1996 kawasaki VN 1500 Vulcan Classic

1 Answer

Kawasaki zx12 not charging . I cut out plugs from stator to rectifier and soldered them. after doing this , when I plug in rectifiers other plug to main circuit , it blows main fuse at the battery.


Hi, Wayne the following is a comprehensive charging system test that I found on a Rider Groups website. 1. Battery Test: The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test: Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).
3. Check Connections/Wires: Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolate the Stator & Rotor If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter lead
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator IB test or Ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.
5. Regulator Test: Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
Before diagnosing your blown fuse issue check the bottom of your seat if it's metal and comes in close proximity to the positive battery post you need to take the necessary steps to ensure there is no contact (electrical tape, thick rubber insulation, hammer a dent in the seat bottom etc.) also you are going to need a wiring from your service manual a test light, an ohmmeter and plenty of extra fuses. If you turn on your ignition switch and immediately blow a fuse you have a hard/dead short and is usually easy to find. With a test light connected to the hot side of the blown fuse holder start stabbing the wire/s that leads away from the fuse holder and towards the ignition switch, you test light will illuminate validating the short. When the test light fails to illuminate you have passed the short and need to back up until the test light illuminates, then look in the immediate area for the short.
If you driving down the road for 30 minutes or 15 miles and blow a fuse you have soft/flying short and may take some time and patience to find.
If the main fuse/circuit breaker constantly blows/trips while riding you probably have a faulty battery terminal connection. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Any other fuses that constantly keep blowing while riding are usually caused by a loose or corroded ground wire in the circuit, which means you have to check, inspect, test each and everyone with and ohm meter set on a low ohm scale 100 ohms or less . Simply touch one lead to the ground source and the other lead to the battery negative terminal, a reading of zero indicates a clean solid ground. Any number reading or infinity indicates a poor ground and needs to be repaired. Poor or weak grounds require excessive additional amperage to complete the circuit which in turn blows the small amperage fuse. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
http://www.jetav8r.com/Vision/Stator/fault_finding_by_www.electrosport.com.pdf
charging problem 00 12 ZX12R ZONE com
Kawasaki NINJA ZX 12R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Kawasaki Ninja Owners Manuals

Feb 10, 2017 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

I have a 2000 zx12r bike was not charging put a regulator on it now it is overcharging around 15v at idle regulator getting really hot someone has run new wires from regulator to battery any ideas


Hi, Daniel make sure the regulator has a good, clean, tight ground, the systems check below is geared towards Harley Davidson so exact numbers might differ slightly with book specs on your bike but the basic principal is the same, in order to check out any main electrical system, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary. "WARNING" never plug or unplug any electrical connector with the engine running !!!
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is "GROUNDED" and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the multimeter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty alternator rotor.
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the multimeter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator multimeter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the links below. Good luck and have a nice day.
99 ZX7R Alternator Overcharging
https://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
Kawasaki NINJA ZX 12R Service Manual
OEM Parts for Kawasaki
Owner Manuals Service Manuals Kawasaki Vehicles

Dec 10, 2016 | 2000 kawasaki ZX-12R

1 Answer

I own Kawasaki G2 zx-6r the battery after a while seems to loose it's charge (it's got a new battery) it seems just fine for quite a while then looses all its power ? Can you please help me


Hi, John first perform the following tests:
1. Fill acid type batteries to proper levels.
2. Charge battery overnight at 1-2 amps you need 12.5 volts or better after charging.
3. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
4. Hook up battery positive cable, then with your multimeter on the milliamp scale connect one lead to the negative battery post and the other lead to the ground cable. Meter should read 3 milliamps or less, 10 milliamps with a radio, 15 milliamps with radio and CB. If your meter reads higher you need to isolate the circuit by pulling fuses and circuit breakers one at a time and observe meter for a drop in amperage then get out your test light and track down the short in that circuit.
5. Hook up a voltmeter to the battery and start the engine, if meter falls below 9.0 volts while cranking you need to perform a proper load test on the battery and replace if necessary.
6. With the engine running at 3600 RPM, the battery should read 14.3-14.7 volts if not continue tests.
7. Unplug the voltage regulator from the alternator at crankcase by the front of the primary cover.
8. To test voltage regulator go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8EjV0IjW9Q
9. With ohm meter, one lead grounded, touch alternator pin meter should read infinity, if not replace the stator.
10. With ohm meter, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 ohms on 1989 and later models. 0.2 to 0.4 ohms 1988 and earlier models, if not replace the stator.
11. With the voltmeter set on AC scale, both leads touching alternator pins meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC for every 1000 RPM'S 1989 and later and 19 to 26 volts AC for every 1000 RPMS. If not replace the rotor.
For more information about your issue and free downloads that you will need please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
Battery draining ZX6R Forum
Free Kawasaki Motorcycle Service Manuals for download
kawasaki ninja zx 6r motorcycle parts
Owner Manuals Service Manuals Kawasaki Vehicles

Feb 07, 2016 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

What is causing the battery to drain?


Running the car will drain the battery it if it's not charging ! An if your charging light is on it isn't charging ! Did you check power an grounds on the alternator ? There is a single heavier wire on the back of the alternator, this should have battery voltage ! You may want to take this to a ASE certified repair shop !
Functionality
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, voltage is applied through the warning indicator I circuit 904 (LG/RD) to the voltage regulator. This turns the regulator on, allowing current to flow from battery sense A circuit 35 (OG/LB) to the generator field coil. When the engine is started, the generator begins to generate alternating current (AC) which is internally converted to direct current (DC). This current is then supplied to the vehicle's electrical system through the output (B+) terminal of the generator.
Once the generator begins generating current, a voltage signal is taken from the generator stator and fed back to the regulator S circuit 4 (WH/BK). This voltage feedback signal (typically half the battery voltage) is used to turn off the warning indicator.
With the system functioning normally, the generator output current is determined by the voltage of the A circuit 35 (OG/LB). The A circuit 35 (OG/LB) voltage is compared to a set voltage internal to the regulator, and the regulator controls the generator field current to maintain the correct generator output.
The set voltage will vary with temperature and is typically higher in cold temperatures and lower in warm temperatures. This allows for better battery recharge in the winter and reduces the chance of overcharging in the summer.
Battery Positive Output (B+) Circuit 38 (BK/OG)
The generator output is supplied through the battery positive output (B+) terminal on the back of the generator to the battery and electrical system.
I Circuit 904 (LG/RD)
The I (ignition) circuit 904 (LG/RD) is used to turn on the voltage regulator. This circuit is powered up with the ignition switch in the RUN position. This circuit is also used to turn the charging system warning indicator on if there is a fault in the charging system operation.
A Circuit 35 (OG/LB)
The A (battery sense) circuit 35 (OG/LB) is used to sense battery voltage. This voltage is used by the regulator to determine generator output. This circuit is used to supply current to the generator field (rotor). The amount of current supplied to the rotor will determine generator output.
S Circuit 4 (WH/BK)
The S (stator) circuit 4 (WH/BK) is used to feed back a voltage signal from the generator to the regulator. This voltage is used by the regulator to turn off the charging system warning indicator. The S circuit is fed back externally on external mounted regulator generators.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical
  • Battery case, posts, hold-down clamp, cables and connections
  • Generator drive (serpentine) belt for condition and tension to make sure there is no slip between the belt and the pulley. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
  • Battery charge
  • Generator pulley
  • Battery junction box (BJB)Mega Fuse
  • Battery junction box fuse:
    • 11 (20A)
  • Central junction box (CJB) fuse:
    • 30 (30A)
  • Circuitry
  • Charging system warning indicator
  • Cables
  1. Check the operation of the charging system warning indicator lamp (instrument cluster). Normal operation is as follows:
    • With the ignition switch OFF, the charging system warning indicator should be OFF.
    • With the ignition switch in RUN and the engine off, the charging system warning indicator light should be on.
    • With the engine running, the charging system warning indicator light should be off.
  1. Verify the battery condition. Refer to Section 414-01 .
Normal Charging System Voltages and Charging System Warning Indicator Operation Ignition Switch Position A Circuit 35 (OG/LB) S Circuit 4 (WH/BK) I Circuit 904 (LG/RD) Generator B+ Circuit 38 (BK/OG) Battery Engine to Battery Ground Charging System Warning Indicator Operation OFF 12 volts 0 volts 0 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Off RUN-engine off 12 volts 0 volts 1-3 volts 12 volts 12 volts 0 volts Illuminated RUN-engine running 13-
15 volts 1/2 battery voltage 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 13-
15 volts 0 volts Off
  1. If the customer concern is verified after the initial inspection, refer to the Symptom Chart to determine which tests to carry out.
    • The charging system warning indicator is on with the engine running (the system voltage does not increase)
    • Circuitry.
    • Voltage regulator.
    • Generator.
    • GO to Pinpoint Test B .
    Your whole problem is the alternator is not charging , a couple tests with a volt meter would tell you !

Aug 16, 2015 | 2001 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Kawasaki 135 ls.no ligthing works and can't charge the battery.


Hi Rey, in order to check out any main system electrical circuit, you have to start with a fully charged battery 12.5 volts or better, and be able to pass a load test if necessary.
1. Check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check battery cables at "BOTH" ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, "INSIDE" and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary.
2. Check the voltage drop at the battery when you hit the starter button, anything below 9 volts you might have a faulty battery.
3. Check voltage at the battery with the bike running at 3,600 RPM should be 14.3 to 14.7 volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you might have a faulty voltage regulator.
4. Make sure voltage regulator is grounded and functioning properly, watch the video below on how to test a voltage regulator.
5. Unplug the connector to the alternator and hook your multimeter leads to the alternator (pin/socket selection does not matter) set the multimeter to AC volts, at an idle the meter should read 16 to 20 volts AC. at 2,000 RPM 32 to 40 AC volts, 3,000 RPM 48 to 60 AC volts. If you are not getting these numbers, you may have a faulty rotor, follow step 6
6. Set the multimeter to OHM'S, connect one lead to the alternator (any pin/socket) and the other to a ground, the meter should read infinity. Connect both leads to the alternator meter should read 0.1 to 0.2 OHM'S. If you are not getting these numbers, you have a bad stator.
7. Check all wiring in the charging circuit for worn or chaffed spots and all wiring connectors in the circuit for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets, which is the # 1 offender.
For more information about your issue please visit the websites below. Good luck and have a nice day.
https://www.tradebit.com/filesharing.php/search/0/kawasaki+135

Aug 13, 2015 | kawasaki Motorcycles

1 Answer

Alternator or Voltage Regulator or Other?


You will need to test the charging system. Try this simple test, hook a voltmeter to the battery and check the voltage with the key turned off. Should be 12 volts. Now start the engine and note the volt meter reading at idle, it should go up to about 13.8 - 14.2 volts. Rev the engine up and note what happens. If the voltage is low at low RPM 12V and then goes up with more RPM like you stated it could be the regulator or the alternator. Start by switching out or trying another voltage regulator. If this does not fix the problem you will need to test and repair the alternator. The alternator out put can be tested by bypassing the regulator. This requires special equipment and know how. I hope this gets you

Jun 30, 2015 | Honda GL 1500 SE Gold Wing Motorcycles

1 Answer

P1409


DTC P1409: MEASURE RESISTANCE ACROSS EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1409 indicates that Self-Test has detected an electrical fault in the EVR circuit.

Possible causes:

Open EVR circuit.
Open VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
EVR circuit shorted to VPWR.
EVR circuit shorted to GND.
Damaged EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Key off.
Disconnect EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Measure EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid resistance.
Is solenoid resistance between 26 and 40 ohms?
Yes No
The EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid resistance is within specification. GO to HE111 . REPLACE EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN Quick Test.

HE111 CHECK VPWR CIRCUIT VOLTAGE AT EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID
Key on, engine off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Measure voltage between VPWR circuit at the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector and chassis GND.
Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes No
GO to HE112 . SERVICE open in VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid. RECONNECT all components. COMPLETE PCM Reset to clear DTCs. RERUN Quick Test.

HE112 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT RESISTANCE
Key off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box and leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and EVR circuit at the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector.
Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes No
GO to HE113 . SERVICE open in EVR circuit. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

HE113 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORTS TO POWER OR GROUND
Key off.
EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid disconnected.
Breakout box installed, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 71 and 97 (VPWR) at the breakout box.
Measure resistance between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 24 and 103 (PWR GND) at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE damaged PCM. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. SERVICE EVR circuit for short to VPWR or PWR GND. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test.

HE120 CONTINUOUS MEMORY DTC P1409: WIGGLE EGR VACUUM REGULATOR SOLENOID WHILE MONITORING VPWR
Continuous Memory DTC P1409 indicates that Continuous Memory Self-Test has detected an electrical malfunction in the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid sometime during vehicle operation.

Note: If DTC P1409 was output in Key On Engine Off (KOEO) or Key On Engine Running (KOER) Self-Test, go to HE110 to diagnose present fault.

Possible causes:

Open EVR circuit.
Open VPWR circuit to EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
EVR circuit shorted to VPWR.
EVR circuit shorted to GND.
Damaged EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Damaged PCM.
Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure voltage between Test Pin 47 (EVR) and Test Pins 24 (PWR GND) at the breakout box.
Key on.
Voltage must read greater than 10.5 volts. For an indication of a fault, look for this voltage to drop while performing the following:
Lightly tap on the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid.
Wiggle the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid connector.
Grasp the EGR Vacuum Regulator solenoid vehicle harness connector and wiggle wires between solenoid and PCM.
Is a fault indicated?
Yes No
ISOLATE fault and SERVICE as necessary. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. Unable to duplicate or identify fault at this time. GO to Pinpoint Test Step Z1 with the following data: DPFEGR and EGRVR PIDs and list of possible causes.

Sep 25, 2011 | 2001 Mazda Tribute

1 Answer

The battery keeps dying on my kawasaki FD661D 22Hp what do I do to fix it?


Either it is not being charged while the engine is running, or there is a drain on it when the engine is not running, or it is shot and can not hold a charge. Check the voltage with nothing attached, should be about 12. Then attach it to the wiring and check the voltage when the engine is running, should be about 14. If the voltage is not higher with the engine running then there is no charging going on and your problem lies in the charging circuitry. If the voltage is higher, then you have something draining it while the engine is not running. Try unbolting the negative battery terminal when you are not using the mower. If it still loses charge between mowings, then your battery most likely is shot.

Mar 24, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Recently having problems with my 2000 Fatty not holding charge. What should stator be putting out on voltage meter? Voltage meter climbs as rpms go up, I would presume that this indicates stator ok? Bike...


First, take your battery somewhere and have it load tested. Fat Boys are tough on batteries as the battery sits in the "horseshoe" oil tank and is subjected to high temperatures due to the hot oil in the tank. Battery life is typically two years although I've seen some go longer and some not last that long. Have the battery tested before you start spending money.

To check the stator, you unplug the regulator at the engine case. Down inside the plug you'll see some electrical connectors. Connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to these connectors (one lead to eac pin) and put the meter in the 50 volt or higher range AC voltage. This is important that your meter be set to measure AC voltage because at this point, the voltage is indeed an Alternating Current voltage coming out of your alternator. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should be reading over 20 volts AC. The book says that you should read 12-18 volts per 1000 engine RPM. If your engine is turning 2000 rpm, your meter should read 24-36 volts AC.

To test the regulator, first charge your battery to a full charge. Then connect your DVOM across the battery, red to positive, black to negative. Put the meter in the 20 volt DC range. Start the bike and bring it to a high idle. The voltage will start at somewhere around 12.5 volts and climb to about 14.5-15 volts. This would indicate that the regulator MAY be alright.

Now, have you changed any of the lights on your Fat Boy? I've seen people change and add lights to the point where their alternator could no longer put out the current necessary to handle the load. If this is the case, you may need a higher out charging system.

I don't know where you're located but $260 seems quite high for a voltage regulator.

Dec 30, 2009 | 2000 Harley Davidson FLSTF Fat boy

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