Question about AEG Dryers

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Bra wire caught in back of tumble dryer drum

I can see the wire through the vent holes on the back panel of the drum but have not as yet been able to grab it. i am not keen on dismantling the whole kaboodle...any ideas? aprt from ladies handwashing bras?

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  • nickyp001 Jul 26, 2009

    Yes, really graunchy sounding....but it's OK....I wqorked out how to take the back panel off the dryer (having disconnected from mains, natch) which gave me access to the main spindle...and there was the wire. A bit of tugging and out it came.

  • James Ely May 11, 2010

    Is it making noise when the tumbler rotates?



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We got a bra wire stuck in ours it actually went through the tiny holes at the back and bridged the earth and live on the heater coils, and the rcd kicked in to cut it out before it could of caught fire. Never in a millions year would you think that could happen !

Posted on Mar 16, 2017


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Condensing tumble dryer not running

has the belt shredded and wrapped itself around the shaft? try to manually rotate the drum to see if the belt is free and the motor shaft moves. it sounds like the motor is stuck and the smell is the uncirculated heat at the back. let me know your results.
taking the lid off will gain access.

Posted on Feb 16, 2008

  • 734 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer runs, tumbles clothes, but does not heat

i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----

Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

Heating element
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

Thermal fuse
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)

A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer tumbles, no heat

Fist thing to check is if the manual reset on the heater box has tripped. That dryer can be serviced from the front. Also, there is a heater upgrade kit that can be purchased from Fisher Paykel Parts that has several updated parts in it for the top load electric dryers.

There are several things that can cause the reset to pop out. You may have a lint build up behind the shroud where the lint bucket fits.

This is a complicated appliance. You may wish to obtain a service manual for it.

Link to factory service manual:

Link to heater upgrade kit:

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: hotpoint tumble dryer is making

This sound is caused by the drum tilting towards the rear panel just above the heating element housing and is due to the drum spindle wearing through the bearing. (Which can lead to it shearing off) after it`s cut it `s way into the bearing support bracket. A new rear bearing kit is needed. it will come with a foam support which is stuck on to the inside of the back panel as the drum rests against this when turning. the foam support on your dryer may have perished or gone flat due to the heat from the element and that is why your hearing the scaping sound. new foam ring from the bearng kit will cure the scraping.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

  • 143 Answers


Yes this is a common problem and can cause more serious problems such as getting caught in the motor and seizing it or even causing fires. If the rear seal is damaged or if it has become slighly out of place this could cause a small gap in between the drum and the back wall of the dryer cabinet. With a small gap, smaller things can now travel from your drum into the bottom area. However you can purchase a small items bag specifically made for dryers. You simply put all your items indies the mesh bag, and they no longer get eaten up or lost & destroyed.Hope this helps


Posted on Nov 22, 2009

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How to remove panel to clean out lint for GE electric dryer model DDC0580BBLWH

most ge dryers you unplug it,open the door and look up you'll see two phillips screws there,remove them and then slide the top panel to left to remove it,then remove two screws on front panel,move front panel to the left,now you can clean out the front panel where the lint screen is,if you have a shop vac set it up to blow and blow all the lint in the cabinet up to the front so you can vac it up,this way you don't have to remove the drum,if you do remove the drum vac out the back side of the drum,if you don't want to remove the drum look inside the drum,if you see lint there vac it out through the holes,then set up the vac to blow and blow through the holes in the back of drum,vac up any lint you see,then remove the vent line,if it's a long run stick a leaf blower into the line and blow it to the outside,when you're done start the dryer,go outside and make sure the air is blowing out strong,if not check the vent line again.hope this helps you out.if you go to order parts the number you sent doesn't come up,if you remove the wh it comes up.

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Replace blower belt

unplug it,open the door,remove the two phillips screws that hold the door on and remove the other two on the other side,remove the door and pull the front panel off,just tilt the top of panel out,remove the four 5/16 inch screws that hold the front bulkhead on,then remove the top screws and the L bracket on top,remove the front bulkhead,pop off the metal wire holder on the right side and stick the bulkhead on the right side of the machine so you can remove the drum,lift the top panel up a few inches and slide out the drum,you'll see the mark on the drum from the old belt,put the belt on the drum ribs down against the drum,slide the drum back in,grab the belt,put it under the belt pulley,pull the pulley over to the motor and connect the belt on the motor shaft,put the dryer back together the same way you took it apart,you'll notice two short screws,they go into the holes that have a space around the hole,one goes in the bottom and then the other opposite side up top.hope this helps.

May 16, 2013 | Maytag Atlantis MDE6400AY Electric Dryer

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My dryer is a Kenmore model 110.64202200 and it will not spin, the belt popped. I am trying to put the new belt back on and need guidance.

unplug the dryer,remove the lint filter and remove the two phillips screws in front of the filter hole.with a screw driver pop the top lid,stick the screw driver in the top crack where the panels meet around two inches from each end and push down on the screw driver on both sides and the top will come up,next you'll see on the right side a wire connector,stick a thin screw driver in between the plastic on both sides to pread it apart so you can separate it,that's the door switch coneector,then on the right and left side around thrre inches down you'll see a 5/16 inch screw on both sides,remove them and then tilt the front panel out just a little and then pull up on either the right side then the left side and remove the front panel,pull the drum out,while you're in there vac out the dryer,next check the belt pulley,if it's the original metal pulley change it out to the pulley with a wheel on it,you can buy a kit that has the new pulley ,belt and rollers all together,i forget the part number but you can call your parts store and ask them for the kit and they will hook you up,the ribs on the belt touch the drum and the smoth side is up,put the pulley in the hole in the floor right under the motor pulley,if there are two sets of holes put it in the holes that are right under the motor pulley,next stick the drum back in and spin it and make sure the felt on the back is behind the drum,when you spin the drum tilt it down a little and the felt will line up on it's own,next make sure the pulley stayed in the holes,stick your head in the drum and hold it in place with your right shoulder,grab the belt and pinch it together with your left hand and pull it under the wheel of the pulley and rap the end of the belt around the motor shaft and that's it,after you get the front together you should pull the back wall off and clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,four screws hold the duct on in the back and the two screws on top have to be out to remove the duct,then if the vent line is a long run from the back of the dryer to the outside duct go outside,make sure the outside vent is clear,remove the vent line from the back of the dryer and blow it out with a leaf blower,if you clean the dryer like this every two years you'll almost never has problems with this dryer.let me know how you make out

Oct 05, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Metal (wire?) stuck in rotating drum cavity.

Firstly, you can carefully run your hand around the inside of the drum. If you're really lucky the object may poke thru one of the holes enough for you to grab with a pair of pliers. Try turning the drum back and forth to catch the object in the holes. If this doesn't work you can take the sump hose off on the bottom of the outer tub. If all else fails you may have to remove the heater element and more than likely that's where the object is stuck. (Please ensure if you do not but a new element in use some petroleum jelly or washing liquid to get the old element back in, or you may solve one problem but create a leak). Also, when refitting element be sure that it is sat under it's internal bracket or the drum will scrape on it when it turns.
Hope this helps
ps I'm betting evens that it's a bra underwire!

Jul 07, 2010 | Bosch Washing Machines

1 Answer

The dryer doesnt have any heat.. how do I replace the heating element?

1) Unplug the dryer and pull it far enough away from the wall to remove the vent hose.
2) Remove the screws securing the rear access panel, leaving the top center screw for last. Set the panel aside.
3) Remove the two wires connected to the limit thermostat on the side of the chimney. You need to write down & remember that the wires go to the thermostat and the spade connectors on the ends of the wires will only fit the thermostat. Remove the two wires at the bottom of the chimney connected to the terminals mounted in ceramic insulators. These terminals are part of the heater element.
4) Now go up to the top of the dryer and remove the two screws under the lint filter (pull the filter out first).
5) We need to open the top of the dryer now. Slide a putty knife in between the dryer top and the cabinet to release the clips holding the top down. Push in and pry up about 2.5" in from each corner (see the diagram below).
6) Grab a stub flat blade screwdriver or a short screwdriver (you aren't going to have much room), raise the top (use your head to prop it up) and remove the sheet metal screw securing the mounting ******** top of the heater chimney (it's way to the back and to your left). Before you remove the strap note how it is looped through the slot on top of the chimney.
6A) Some newer elements are now 1/2 of the size of the older style versions, picture help and more picture help and even more picture help.
7) Go back to the rear of the machine and pull the top of the chimney back and out of the drum bulkhead. Note how the chimney sits on two mounting brackets for later reinstallation. Lift the chimney up and off of its mounting brackets.
8) Lay the chimney down with the vent on the top facing you. Remove the sheet metal screw near the bottom. This releases the heater element. Slide the old element out. Confirm that it has failed by locating the break in the coil.
9) Position the chimney above the mounting brackets and carefully lower it into the slots. Push the top of the chimney back into the hole in the drum bulkhead. If the chimney doesn't fit snugly into the hole, check the alignment of the slots at the base of the chimney with those in the mounting brackets.
10) Raise the top again and replace the mounting strap and the screw at the top of the chimney. Lower the top and lock the clips by pushing the top down. Replace the two screws that were under the lint filter. Slide the lint filter back in.
11) Reconnect the two wires to the limit thermostat and the two wires to the heater element terminals. If the heater element terminals are different from those on the ends of the wires that you disconnected, use the connectors supplied with the new element and splice them onto your wires.
12) Replace the rear access panel and its mounting screws. Reconnect the dryer vent hose and plug in the power cord. Check for proper operation.

Nov 15, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer


really tedious job. if you are really keen, pl. follow.
remove motor, remove shoker top pins, remove top stone, remove all hose connecting drum, remove heater/other connections, remove door gasket from front, support drum from top, remove springs, lower drum, dismantle drum in two pieces, remove inner steel drum.
well rest i think you can think yourself.

Oct 30, 2009 | LG WM-0532HW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Rear roters won't come off like front did.

If I am correct, the parking brake is part of this rotor also. The inside of the rotor is shaped like a drum brake hub, so the parking brake shoes can expand, and push against the drum shape. (Just like a Corvette)

You may want to adjust the parking brake shoes in, for easier removal.
To do this, there is an adjustment hole knockout panel, or access plug you remove.

(Adjustment Hole Knockout Panel. Fancy name for an oblong piece of metal, that has been cut into the brake backing plate, but not cut all the way through. You take a punch, and hammer, and hit the side end of this 'Knockout Panel'. When it twists, grab the end with a pair of vise grips, work it back and forth, and it will break out. You will then need to buy the rubbery access plugs to fill this hole)

With the adjustment hole open you will see a star wheel. Just like on drum brakes. Use a brake spoon. (Brake adjustment wrench) You'll have to experiment, with which way to turn this star wheel, to slack the parking brake shoes away, from the drum shape in the rotor. One side should be left handed thread, the other side is right handed thread.

Still won't budge? More penetrating oil, (WD-40 is NO GOOD for this!), and use a rubber mallet, or similar type hammer from the inside of the vehicle, hitting out.

(Jack Stands, Wheel Chocks, Eye Protection! Have someone nearby watching, in case the vehicle starts to slip off, and can grab you, or at least warn you. Thank you for letting me say this, I feel better!)

May 16, 2009 | 2002 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

I need to get access to the drum, how easy is this to strip out?

if you remove one of the paddles from inside the drum you may be able to grab it with long nose pliers or wire coathanger.
put a small screw driver into the paddle's 3rd hole from the front to press in a metal tab carefully not to bend it completely and pull the paddle towards the front and it will come off.
if the bra wire is up the back of the drum you may be able to grab it with removal of the heater element round the back of the machine at the bottom of the drum, loosen the 10mm bolt,(not off clompletely) and wiggle the heater out.

Feb 12, 2009 | Hotpoint Ultima WF860 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Thanks mate, but can you explain - where do i start? Have i litrally gotta go in through the back and take the drum apart?

actually it is a little more complicated than that.
What you have to do is take top and back plates off.
First thing I would do is take the hose of the drum where the water pump (drain) is connected and see if you are lucky to see the wire through that hole. If not yes than you will have to dismantel the whole machine and take the outer drum apart.
Take motor out and than split the outer drum. ( they are locked together with bolts.) I know it seems like a lot of work but I have done it before and it is very possible to do it. Make sure that if you disconnect wires to mark where they go. You can even take pictures to help you assemble it again.
If you are not to keen about it you can always ask a local tech to do this. It will void your warranty if you do it your self.
Sorry that is is not an easy fix.

Apr 22, 2008 | Washing Machines

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