Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
This Kenmore refrigerator is about 8 years old. The light fixture in the top of the fridge compartment has two light bubs. One burned out about 6 months ago. We bought 2 exact replacement bulbs (expensive) But neither worked. Now the second bulb is out. Same problem, new bulbs don't light when screwed into the socket. Is something tying to protect us from ... what?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
there is a tab in the bottom of the light socket that can get bent so that it wont touch the base of the new bulb. unplug your refrig and use a small screw driver and bend the tab back out a little bit so that it will contact the new bulb...
Posted on Dec 12, 2007
If you have 120VAC on the center contact of the light socket, and a working fan, but the bulb won't light...the most likely cause would be a disconnected neutral wire (white) in the light wiring inside the hood....assuming everything else is wired correctly.
If you're comfortable with further electrical testing...let me know, and I can describe a detailed procedure to check the status of the neutral wire. Otherwise, you may need the assistance of someone familiar with electrical troubleshooting or appliance repair.
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
If you're getting 120V at the lampholders, yet it's not lighting lamps that still work perfectly well in other fittings, two possibilitiesspring to mind.
One is that the cap on the bulbs isn't quite compatible with the fitting. Assuming they're some variant of Edison Screw, make sure that the centre terminal in the lampholder is sticking out far enough to touch the terminal on the bulb. Also check whether the lampholder achieves it's outer connection just with a small tab, rather than with the whole of the threaded ring. If so, make sure that this is going to touch the appropriate part of the bulb.
The other possibility is that you've got a high resistance connection somewhere - not enough of an open circuit to drop the 120 V when feeding the Megohm load presented by a meter, but more than enough to kill the supply when you have a lamp load. Only way to chase this is to use the meter on ohms range to bell out all the wiring between the lampholders and bits of the system which do work properly.
Posted on Apr 05, 2008
This is at www.sears.com under the parts direct tab.
Posted on Jul 24, 2009
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