Ice amker and water spickett is no longer working

Water is stored in a tube bundle located behind the crisper drawers (bottom, back of the refrigerator) and is chilled to the temp of the refrigerator (perhaps 40 degrees F). This tubing holds approx. 16-32 ounces (less than a liter) and incoming water pushes the chilled water to the dispenser, but also begins to warm the output water temps.

The only way to get colder water is the set the refrigerator to a lower temperature. But be careful that the temps are not so low as to cause other food items to freeze.

Are the cubes normal - the right size, not hollow? Once frozen and the harvest cycle begins, does it take longer than a couple minutes for the cubes to drop? After the ice drops does it fill with water each time?
If everything checks OK the last thing is very important. The rate at which an ice maker produces cubes depends on the temperature of the freezer - the colder it is the quicker the cycle. Try nudging the controls up a bit and wait 24 hours.

As for freezer, lower the letter and allow 24 hours for temp to adjust. Lower again and wait, until desired temp achieved.

Do the same thing for refrigerator. If freezing not working most efficiently, this can and usually does affect the refrigerator.

Go to http://www.buzzle.com/articles/refrigerator-temperature-settings.html for more info.

If your freezer side is capable of making ice, and that ice is dry and remains so,

the only issue you have is insufficient airflow to the reefer box section from the freezer.

The refrigerator section is 100% reliant upon the frezers side for all of its cold air.

The refer box has no evaportator of its own, There are 2 settings or dials.



One is the temperature thermostat, it actually controls the compresssor motors cycling,

thus the desired ice box temperature as well, it often says 1-10 and off as well, the reamaining setting, the one that cannot turn the compressor motor either off nor on is a damper door controller, that modulates the freezers airflow into the reefers box!This is where the problems occur, when one notices the reefers box is warm, they max both settings,which seems logical , and is for the thermostat dials setting.Where the major counter intuitive reality exists is the flapper dooors setting will say Colder and Warmer!!Colder of course!! right?? No, it actually means and usually does say, Colder Freezer!!not Colder Reefer! so you MAX or RAISE the thermostat, thats ok to do.But maxing or raising the other setting is just starving the reefer box section from sufficient cold air flow to maintain adequate temps.I have gone to hundreds of identical calls, Freezers ok, but Reefers warm! If the freezers making ice and the ice is dry, there is no problem with the refrigeration system, its airflow.when defrost timers or heaters fail the symptoms may be as yours, however the freezer will slowly warm in another day or so. But if the freezers making ice for days and never getting wet theres an airflow issue period, you may need to remove the back wall panel in the freeezer to see the coils condition , is it iced up or blocking airflow with icing/ is the ducting open between the freezer and reefer boxes?setting both dials to the midway setting should work fine. the condenser coils may be dirty/dusty too, is the cardboard backing still in place on back? it needs to be there intact.

is there product inside the reefer box? if not add 3 gallons of water.

?

If your freezer side is capable of making ice, and that ice is dry and remains so,

the only issue you have is insufficient airflow to the reefer box section from the freezer.

The refrigerator section is 100% reliant upon the frezers side for all of its cold air.

The refer box has no evaportator of its own, There are 2 settings or dials.



One is the temperature thermostat, it actually controls the compresssor motors cycling,

thus the desired ice box temperature as well, it often says 1-10 and off as well, the reamaining setting, the one that cannot turn the compressor motor either off nor on is a damper door controller, that modulates the freezers airflow into the reefers box!This is where the problems occur, when one notices the reefers box is warm, they max both settings,which seems logical , and is for the thermostat dials setting.Where the major counter intuitive reality exists is the flapper dooors setting will say Colder and Warmer!!Colder of course!! right?? No, it actually means and usually does say, Colder Freezer!!not Colder Reefer! so you MAX or RAISE the thermostat, thats ok to do.But maxing or raising the other setting is just starving the reefer box section from sufficient cold air flow to maintain adequate temps.I have gone to hundreds of identical calls, Freezers ok, but Reefers warm! If the freezers making ice and the ice is dry, there is no problem with the refrigeration system, its airflow.when defrost timers or heaters fail the symptoms may be as yours, however the freezer will slowly warm in another day or so. But if the freezers making ice for days and never getting wet theres an airflow issue period, you may need to remove the back wall panel in the freeezer to see the coils condition , is it iced up or blocking airflow with icing/ is the ducting open between the freezer and reefer boxes?setting both dials to the midway setting should work fine. the condenser coils may be dirty/dusty too, is the cardboard backing still in place on back? it needs to be there intact.

is there product inside the reefer box? if not add 3 gallons of water.

?

If your freezer side is capable of making ice, and that ice is dry and remains so,

the only issue you have is insufficient airflow to the reefer box section from the freezer.

The refrigerator section is 100% reliant upon the frezers side for all of its cold air.

The refer box has no evaportator of its own, There are 2 settings or dials.



One is the temperature thermostat, it actually controls the compresssor motors cycling,

thus the desired ice box temperature as well, it often says 1-10 and off as well, the reamaining setting, the one that cannot turn the compressor motor either off nor on is a damper door controller, that modulates the freezers airflow into the reefers box!This is where the problems occur, when one notices the reefers box is warm, they max both settings,which seems logical , and is for the thermostat dials setting.Where the major counter intuitive reality exists is the flapper dooors setting will say Colder and Warmer!!Colder of course!! right?? No, it actually means and usually does say, Colder Freezer!!not Colder Reefer! so you MAX or RAISE the thermostat, thats ok to do.But maxing or raising the other setting is just starving the reefer box section from sufficient cold air flow to maintain adequate temps.I have gone to hundreds of identical calls, Freezers ok, but Reefers warm! If the freezers making ice and the ice is dry, there is no problem with the refrigeration system, its airflow.when defrost timers or heaters fail the symptoms may be as yours, however the freezer will slowly warm in another day or so. But if the freezers making ice for days and never getting wet theres an airflow issue period, you may need to remove the back wall panel in the freeezer to see the coils condition , is it iced up or blocking airflow with icing/ is the ducting open between the freezer and reefer boxes?setting both dials to the midway setting should work fine. the condenser coils may be dirty/dusty too, is the cardboard backing still in place on back? it needs to be there intact.

is there product inside the reefer box? if not add 3 gallons of water.

?

If your freezer side is capable of making ice, and that ice is dry and remains so,

the only issue you have is insufficient airflow to the reefer box section from the freezer.

The refrigerator section is 100% reliant upon the frezers side for all of its cold air.

The refer box has no evaportator of its own, There are 2 settings or dials.



One is the temperature thermostat, it actually controls the compresssor motors cycling,

thus the desired ice box temperature as well, it often says 1-10 and off as well, the reamaining setting, the one that cannot turn the compressor motor either off nor on is a damper door controller, that modulates the freezers airflow into the reefers box!This is where the problems occur, when one notices the reefers box is warm, they max both settings,which seems logical , and is for the thermostat dials setting.Where the major counter intuitive reality exists is the flapper dooors setting will say Colder and Warmer!!Colder of course!! right?? No, it actually means and usually does say, Colder Freezer!!not Colder Reefer! so you MAX or RAISE the thermostat, thats ok to do.But maxing or raising the other setting is just starving the reefer box section from sufficient cold air flow to maintain adequate temps.I have gone to hundreds of identical calls, Freezers ok, but Reefers warm! If the freezers making ice and the ice is dry, there is no problem with the refrigeration system, its airflow.when defrost timers or heaters fail the symptoms may be as yours, however the freezer will slowly warm in another day or so. But if the freezers making ice for days and never getting wet theres an airflow issue period, you may need to remove the back wall panel in the freeezer to see the coils condition , is it iced up or blocking airflow with icing/ is the ducting open between the freezer and reefer boxes?setting both dials to the midway setting should work fine. the condenser coils may be dirty/dusty too, is the cardboard backing still in place on back? it needs to be there intact.

is there product inside the reefer box? if not add 3 gallons of water.

?

First, I'm not a Maytag tech.
Check your warranty. You should call Maytag/Sears for service.
*** The following is for information only.**
* I've had this problem a lot with my old fridge. Water line works but no ice.
* Check if the "Ice Full" leaver is in the down (no ice) position. Some ice makers will lock the leaver (a stiff wire) in the full position to manually shut off ice maker. Make sure it swings up and down when ice tray is empty.
* Sometimes when the tray is left full of ice for a week or more then the tube feeding water will freeze up. Defrosting the freezer on a regular basis will help. A quick fix is to pour warm water in the ice maker section (where the ice is formed). This will help melt the clogged pipe and also make some ice while your waiting. You may have to do this several times. But at least you have ice.
* This (freezing up) may also be caused by the freezer set too cold. The temperature dial should be in the middle. But turning it colder and colder over time will cause ice to build up and prevent foods from freezing properly (thus turning the dial down colder.) Once your maxed out on the dial. You will find the freezer gets warm and things get covered in frost crystals.
* Transfer food to another refrigerator and perform a complete defrost by leaving it unplugged and the door open (freezer section).
* Frequently check and dump water at bottom of fridge. Clean the dust on coils while down there.
* A fan blowing into the freezer section helps. (Do NOT use a heated fan as it will warp the plastic and overpressure the refrigerate.)
* Once defrosted (+4 hours). Power up the freezer and set the temperature dial to mid point and the freezer diverter to middle or normal setting. Don't put the food back in yet. Wait till the freezer gets down to normal freeze temp (about 0 to 10F)
* Move freezer back in place (if you moved it to access plug) then slowly put back the food. Try not to cram stuff in. Leave space for air to flow freely around items.
* Final, Call for service anyway and have them perform yearly service. Check your warranty.
Aloha, ukeboy57

youlkl need to replace the ice amker assy, the finish on the mould assy is coming off. only solution is repalce the entiire ice amker asssy

You may have a broken ice maker and it needs to be replaced. You will need to have a qualified LG technician assist you.