My Gibson clothes dryer heating coil stays on when the drying cycle ends. Open the door does not turn it off either. Is the problem in the main timing control?

possible blockage in vent if ok bad fan motor or heating element overheating

Sounds like you need to replace the timer one the dryer not the element but to make sure I would do a little trouble shooting to rule out the element or heating coil turn on dryer cycle like normal for about 30 seconds then open the door to feel for heat if you do feel heat its your cycle/timer knob if you don't feel heat then it's the coil or element witch are the same also first always check your lint trap and ducts going outside the dryer make sure you have proper airflow through ducts vents. clogged vents ducts ect. Cause over heating of element coil causing a safety fuse to shut down heating coil/element but will not stop cycle also moisture censors detect moisture causing cycle to continue on hope this helps.

Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

Igniter and Gas Valve Coils
TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

Air Flow and Heat
The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

Hi sandygann
Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or inside of the dryer venting system,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the heating element/thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if you do not read continuity you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
Try to run the dryer, if it runs and heats up then replace the thermal fuse/thermistor/thermostat.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
But do not trust the ohm meter all the time, because sometimes it will give a false positive that the fuse is ok when in reality it is faulty.
DO THE FOLLOWING TEST:
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse remove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check the fuse/thermostat,thermistor for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
This test of the thermal fuses,thermistor,thermostat, will show if the thermal fuse,thermostat,thermister is really faulty or not.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc. If you have to replace your blower wheel it will remove clockwise as looking at the blower wheel. You will have to hold the belt end of the motor with a vise grip pliers or maybe the shaft of the motor has a notch cut on it for a wrench to fit.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
If you do not have a volt/ohm meter then:
DO THE FOLLOWING: Remove the wires and tape them together and try to start the dryer.If the dryer starts then replace the fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on air fluff/no heat, and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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Bud

This caused by one of two possible things. Either you have poor air flow, or a clogged vent preventing air from flowing freely and therefor making the dryer short cycle, which in turn will take you two or three times to dry yor clothes, or the heating element has gone bad, burnt in half and is making contact with the case to provide it just enough power to barely heat. The second thing is a very rare occurance. I would turn the dryer on, find out where the air vents out to, and with the dryer running, go to where it vents and check to see if there is a strong flow of air. 9 times out of 10 that is going to be your problem. Another way to check air flow is to just pull the vent off the back and let the dryer run and see if your clothes dry faster. If you do it that way and they still take a long time to dry, then you'll probably need to replace the heating element

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Hi phylliskryst...


Here are a few things to check:
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape.
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse as it is faulty.
If you have an ohm meter then you can test the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse,
then you do not have to tape the wires together as described above.
To test your thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuseremove the wires from the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse and check for continuity, if you DO NOT have continuity then replace the thermostat/thermistor/thermal fuse.
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST AS THIS COULD CAUSE A FIRE BECAUSE YOU HAVE REMOVED THE SAFETY.
Check your blower wheel to make sure it is secure to the shaft and not plugged with lint,socks,etc.
If the thermal fuse overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset.
You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, remove both wires from the thermal fuse and put the test probes to each of the ends of the thermal fuse, if no continuity then replace the thermal fuse.
A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace a generic element go to the following website:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
Please take time to rate me

if it works on auto but not on time you have a bad timer,it's not counting down,it's better to use auto anyway,when the clothes dry the dryer shuts off on it's own,this way your not using extra electricity,if your clothes dry in 30 minutes and it's on 60 minutes it will still run after the clothes are dry on auto it doesn't.if you open the door and look around the opening you'll see a tag with the model number,your missing a couple of letters on the model number.

Overloading
1. One of the simplest problems to remedy could simply be that you are putting too many items inside the machine during the drying cycle. Avoid overloading your dryer, as this might cause your dryer to work extra hard to dry your clothing, extending the length of the dry cycle.
Wrong Heat Setting
2. A common issue with clothes dryers could be the wrong heat setting. Most home dryers feature several settings, from low heat settings to high heat and permanent press. Be sure the setting you choose is right for your needs. Another setting to check is the load size of your dryer. If you are drying a large amount of clothes, be sure the setting for large loads on high heat is selected. Choosing the wrong heat setting or load size can cause your clothes and linens to take longer to dry.
Lint Trap
3. One of the simplest fixes for drying issues might just be that your lint trap is clogged. Each time you use your dryer, lint will form in the trap. If the lint trap and vents are full, this could block air going into your dryer and slow down if not completely stop the drying process. After you use your dryer, remove this lint trap and empty it fully. Even if the lint trap is full, your other dryer vents might be clogged as well.
Clogged Vents
4. If your clothes are in the dryer for a long amount of time, but still not drying, the reason for this could be a clogged vent. A sign that your vent is clogged is if your clothes are warm or hot to the touch after sitting in the dryer, but still damp. To unclog your dryer vent, you may need professional assistance. This is especially necessary if your dryer vent leading out of the house is particularly long.
Heat Source
5. If the dryer is not getting enough heat to dry your clothes,something could be wrong with the heating system. After the drying cycle, touch your clothes to see if they are warm. If not, this means that the heating mechanism is malfunctioning. It will need to be repaired or replaced by a professional.

On the blower housing in the rear is a duct fuse. If the dryer gets stopped up that fuse will blow and kill the gas assembly so I always check that first. Then If that is kosher I check the flame sensor for continuity. if it is open the ignitor and coils won't work. if it turns out to have continuity I next will check the ignitor for continuity. If it is open then nothing can happen right? If the dryer runs and the ignitor glows, shuts down and heats for a short time and then quits then that is the operator coils. mainly the one with 2 wires comes on and stays on most of the time the dryer is calling for heat. the coils come in a pair for $20. On this page I am going to post a better explanation is given with pictures. above the page is a few more links that are helpful. More gas dryer enlightenment

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

make sure that your vent is not plug up can you go outside your house and feel good air coming out the vent when the dryer is turn on if so the only other things it could be is the coils that sit on the ignotor assmebly or the high limit termistat is not working properly the coils are little black circle coils that sit in the ignitor assmly should have a metal braket across the top of them holding them in you can check resistance on these coils if you have an meter