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The fuel shut off solenoid does not pull in to allow fuel to carburetor.Fuel tank is full, new fuel filter and pump.

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Check solenoid valve coil for continuity with the multi-tester.
If it is open, you need to change it but if it has continuity, you have two more options. first, try to turn on (not start) ignition, then check if wire for solenoid has incoming supply (12V) with your tester. if no voltage, there is fuse problem, if it has then your solenoid is stuck up mechanically. if you can open this, maybe there's something clogging, if you can't, you are obliged to replace this solenoid.

Posted on May 03, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Won't start. In storageempty18 mths. Replaced oil,filter, fuel filter,spark plug, New battery. Fresh gas w/stblzr. Engine cranks but won't turn over.


Won't start. In storage empty18 mths. Replaced oil, filter, fuel filter, spark plug, New battery. Fresh gas w/stblzr. Engine cranks but won't turn over.

Without the exact engine model, I am not sure which Kohler 19 HP you have. There are different models including single cylinder with fuel pump, single cylinder without fuel pump, and multiple versions of the twin cylinder. Therefore, some parts of this answer include generalizations which may or may not be applicable.

Sooo, with the new battery the starter motor does crank the engine; the engine turns over. This informs us that the engine/bearings, has or have, not frozen up while in storage. However, I believe you are indicating that the engine does not fire up and begin running; it won't start and it won't run.

We know the machine has been in storage 18 months. Was the machine completely emptied of fuel, tank and carburetor, prior to long term storage? That is the question of the day.

I am going to assume the machine was running fine the last time it was used; prior to parking it in storage. That means we are assuming there are no mechanical problems with the engine. I am going to assume, with the installation of new plugs, you checked for spark and all is good in that area. This really leaves us with a fuel system problem.

A mechanically functional (meaning all the internal parts are working, i.e. pistons, valves, etc) engine requires 3 things all at the right time, air under pressure (yes they call that compression), fuel, spark. So the quickest way to start your diagnostics is to remove the cover over the air filter and then remove the air filter. I do not recommend spraying Quick Start.

  1. remove air filter (set it aside for the rest of the diagnostics)
  2. put throttle on fast run (do not choke)
  3. pour an ounce or two (a shot glass, not ½ a beer) of fresh gas into the carburetor
  4. crank engine (15 to 20 seconds, rest to cool the starter, repeat 3-4 times if it does not fire at first).
Removing the air filter and placing the throttle at full speed, with no choke, eliminates the "air intake" question for now. Dumping in the fuel bypasses the fuel related question.

  • ·If the engine fires and runs a bit, then dies, you may have eliminated the spark question and you need to track down any fuel problems.
  • ·If the engine does not fire you likely must tract down a Spark problem.
I understand that you filled the tank with fresh fuel.That is step one, of 7-10 possible steps for getting fuel to the engine. Which brings us tooo..

  • Tracking down fuel problems.
  1. Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank. High Octane less than one month old. Water in the fuel system will often cause hard starting, low power, backfiring, surging or stalling. Was your tank clean and dry?
  2. Is there a cut off valve at the gas tank? If so check that it is open or working if it is electric.
  3. This step comes from repeated personal experience with JD gas tanks. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. (look at the filter before removing it, it should look ¾ full of fuel. If it's not that's a clue to fuel flow problems.) If gas does not pour out remove gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. The vent is that tinnnny little hole in the center of the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out any blockage inside the gas tank.

    Do yourself a favor, leave the gas cap off and turn the outlet air on your compressor down below 20 psi. If the tank is nearly full you will blow gas out of the tank. Do this outside if possible; at the very least you need a well ventilated area. After blowing air from the air filter back to the tank, you may have to reverse the process and pressurize the tank to get the fuel started. I place my hand over the open tank and hold the air hose between the joint of my thumb and forefinger to seal the tank, and then squeeze the trigger. Once you have a good fuel flow out the line to the filter, reinstall your FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the fuel pump and carburetor
  4. Check the fuel pump. The fuel pump system on the twin Koehler and the Twin Briggs are almost identical. This includes most single cylinder engines with fuel pumps. Watch this excellent, eight minute, video to learn how to check the fuel system, including the pump, up to the carburetor. . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HAUZUPoopSI
  5. Note: My engine was starting hard and dying in the field this year (March 2015). While doing a valve adjustment, I found a hairline crack in the bend of the vacuum hose powering the fuel pump. It's the short hose running from the valve cover to the fuel pump. The fuel pump will not work if this hose is cracked.
  6. Note: If your engine has a vacuum operated fuel pump it requires crankcase vacuum to drive it. A Reed Valve creates this vacuum. If your reed valve is stuck, broken, or just worn out you will not have a functional fuel pump; even if you buy a new one. If your fuel pump is not working, you must verify crankcase vacuum before buying a new pump.
  7. Most, if not all, fuel systems now have a Fuel Shut Off Solenoid. This is a small cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor (with two wires running to it). The fuel shut off solenoid's main function is to stop fuel from flowing into the carburetor. It does this for various reasons
  • You turn the key off.
  • You put the mower in reverse while the blades are turning.
  • You blow the main fuse due to electrical malfunctions.
Diagnosing the Fuel Shut Off valve:
  • Assuming the battery is good and fully charged
  • Assuming the Key Switch is working.
When you sit in the seat and turn the key, one click from off to run, you will hear a faint click. That faint click is the fuel shut off valve under the carburetor. It is turning on and off when you cycle the key from off to run. If you hear this click your fuel solenoid is functioning electronically. It could still be experiencing issues inside the carburetor. Perhaps there is some varnish, silt or other trash keeping it from working. If this solenoid is not working, you will get no fuel into the carburetor, even if the pump is working. This will require a physical examination of the solenoid and perhaps the entire carburetor.

The following is an "out of carburetor" electrical check up.
  1. Remove the Solenoid.
  2. Connect one jumper wire from a terminal to the positive battery post.
  3. Connect a second wire from a terminal to the negative battery post. The solenoid should retract.
  4. Remove one jumper; the solenoid should spring back out.
If none of this solves your fuel problem you may have to remove and disassemble, clean, soak overnight in carb cleaner, or rebuild the carburetor at this point. You may have water, dried fuel (varnish) or trash in the carburetor bowl or jets. Before removing and disassembling the carburetor try draining the bowl. Or, take the bowl off, careful not to drop the small parts inside. Clean the bowl and replace. I often remove the bowl on small engines and find all kinds of built up gunk. This saves the hassle of a complete carb removal, sometimes.
What else could make the Fuel Cut Off malfunction??
Connect a volt meter across the two battery posts. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel cut off solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good, and the voltage is still dropping, you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage.

If you find this fuel checkup does not solve the problem, repost your question with updated info (exact engine model) and I will walk you through the next step. Tracking down a spark problem; yes, your problem could involve the coil, coil wire and spark plug.
Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...

Apr 19, 2015 | Ariens 42 in. 19 HP Kohler Hydrostatic...

1 Answer

Only runs with choke on.Clean tank new lines,and filter.cleaned float bowl,carb appears to be new.


Tracking down fuel problems.

NOTE:The MTD Yard machine Model 13AO772H755, Briggs 15.5 hp engine does not have a fuel pump.Ignore all references to the fuel pump.However the rest of the fuel pathway should be checked just the same.Watch the video.

  1. Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank. High Octane less than one month old. Water in the fuel system will often cause hard starting, low power, backfiring, surging or stalling
  2. Is there a cut off valve at the gas tank? If so check that it is open or working if it is electric.
  3. This step comes from repeated personal experience with JD gas tanks. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. (look at the filter before removing it, it should look at least 1/2 full of fuel.) If gas does not pour out remove gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. The vent is that tinnnny little hole in the center of the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out any blockage inside the gas tank.
  4. Consider my own experience when my engine to quit in the middle of a mowing job: I was mowing along on my LA145 (200 hours on it) when it slowed down and died. Before it died, it acted like it was losing power. It thought it was only firing on one cylinder. I waited about 20 minutes and it restarted after a lot of cranking and some priming. I made a couple more mowing passes; the same thing happened again.

    I knew this mower was in top running condition. There were no engine misses, no backfires. It was not abnormally hard to start. The carburetor was clean, the coils were good, the plugs and fuel filter were recently changed. Lifting the hood, I noticed the fuel filter was nearly empty. It should be ½ full, or more. I pulled the hose off the tank side of the fuel pump and saw there was no fuel flow.

    Gas should gravity flow from the tank to the fuel pump, if the tank has a good supply of fuel. I wiped the hose off and blew air back into the fuel tank. It helps to take the gas tank lid off first. After I got a good flow of air going back into the tank (you can hear the bubbles) the fuel began to gravity flow back through the hose at a decent clip. This fixed the problem. There is likely silt build up in the tank and it settles at the output port blocking the flow of fuel.

    The problem repeated itself several times last summer. Back at the shop, I used compressed air (turned down to 20 psi) to blow the line clear. The problem reoccurred this spring. I used the same method to clear the line.
  5. Do your self a favor, leave the gas cap off and turn the outlet air on your compressor down below 20 psi. If the tank is nearly full you will blow gas out of the tank. Do this outside if possible; at the very least you need a well ventilated area. After blowing air from the air filter back to the tank, you may have to reverse the process and pressurize the tank to get the fuel started. I place my hand over the open tank and hold the air hose between the joint of my thumb and forefinger to seal the tank, and then squeeze the trigger. Once you have a good fuel flow out the line to the filter, put on a FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the fuel pump and carburetor
  6. Check the fuel pump. The fuel pump system on the twin Koehler and the Twin Briggs (and others) are almost identical. Watch this excellent, eight minute, video to learn how to check the fuel system, including the pump, up to the carburetor. . Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...
  7. Note: My engine was starting hard and dying in the field this year (March 2015). While doing a valve adjustment, I found a hairline crack in the bend of the vacuum hose powering the fuel pump. It's the short hose running from the valve cover to the fuel pump. The fuel pump will not work if this hose is cracked.
  8. Many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on. If it does not click you will have to replace it or track down an electrical problem.
  9. If this has not solved the problem you may have to remove and disassemble, clean, or rebuild the carburetor at this point. You may have water, dried fuel (varnish) or trash in the carburetor bowl. Before removing and disassembling the carburetor try draining the bowl. Or, take the bowl off, careful not to drop the small parts inside. Clean the bowl and replace. I often remove the bowl on small engines and save the hassle of a complete carb removal.

NOTE: Connect a volt meter across the two battery posts. If battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel cut off solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good, and the voltage is still dropping, you may have a bad starter motor which is drawing too much amperage.

If you find this fuel checkup does not solve the problem, repost your question with updated info and I will walk you through the next step. Tracking down a spark problem; yes, your problem could involve the coil or any part of the ignition/spark system. (Not as likely as fuel)
Small Engine Repair Checking Vacuum Fuel Pump Fuel System on Kohler Twin...

Apr 14, 2015 | Garden

2 Answers

Gas will not flow from tank to filter


Check for a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line. Many manufacturers have them to allow the users to run the carburetors empty at the end of the mowing season. It is easy to forget about.

Apr 11, 2015 | Garden

3 Answers

Craftsman riding mower 18.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine runs about 10 to 15 minutes then stops replaced coil and battery what else can be wrong


check all safety switches,seat,deck,clutch,etc,pull single wire off from coil,run the motor,if it doesnt stop then the safety switches are bad,i disconnected my wire from my coil and put a wire on with a switch and ground the switch,to shut it off,but,beware your safety devices are gone,be careful.send me your old coil,i could use it.

Apr 07, 2015 | Craftsman Garden

2 Answers

I have a 2009 super bronco riding mower won't start, but when I put gas in the carb with a straw it runs. Does this 20 horse Koehler have a solenoid?


it could be a bad fuel pump, dirty float bowl causing the float to freeze shut, not allowing fuel into the carburetor or the electric actuator, on the bottom of the float bowl, is frozen shut from corrosion or bad fuel, also not allowing fuel into the carburetor. also check the fuel filter.

Mar 23, 2015 | Garden

2 Answers

Fuel problem with John Deere 23hp engine


time to pull the hose off the fuel pump coming from the tank and drain the tank and check flow of gas coming from tank hose, and possibly inline fuel filter is plugged or there is junk in your tank/line from tank not letting enough fuel to run to pump so pump can pump it to carb !

May 15, 2012 | Briggs & Stratton Briggs Stratton...

1 Answer

BMW F650 FUNDURO 1994. My fuel filter (not that under carbs inside T connector-but the one after petcock a seethrough plastic one) delays a lot to be filled up with gas and as a result my bike shuts off!...


It sounds like a plugged vent on the fuel tank. There is a safety valve on top of the tank that should allow air in to fill the space where the gas was. A malfunctioning valve would cause the problem you describe. First, make sure the vent tube is not full of mud. If a vacuum is forming in the tank you should hear a hissing when opening the fuel tank. Opening the fuel cap when the filter is half full, and the bike is running, should allow the filter to fill up normally. If the the one way valve/vent on top of the tank is bad replace it with a new one(about $25). Another possibility would be a fuel pump malfunction. Open the fuel cap , unplug the lines going to the carburetors, place them into a cup, turn the cycle on, and see if the pump is pushing the fuel properly. If the fuel pump is bad it will run around $360.

Mar 29, 2011 | 2007 BMW G 650 Xmoto

1 Answer

Model # 358.797180, 200 mph. At first I thought problem was carburetor being gummed up due to being improperly winterized by previous owner. Replaced carb with new, did not fix problem. Also replaced fuel...


The primer is just a small pump that is supposed to pull fuel through the carburetor from the tank supply line/fuel filter. The filter is supposed to be connected into the longer line at the rear of the tank. This lines goes to the carburetor uppermost port and the lower port is tied to the inlet side of the primer pump. Remove the tank side line from the pump during the pump test to make sure that you are not pulling fuel into the pump from the exit line. Try pumping fuel at this point--if nothing happens, swap the port connection at the pump and try to pump again--when correct, it will fill the tank supply line first, then the exit line from the carburetor that goes to the pump and finally fill the bulb. If you don't get fuel with either connection, then you have a leaking fuel line somewhere as you have already replaced the carburetor. Most saws use a rubber fuel line, not clear plastic. Hope some of this helps!

Nov 18, 2010 | Garden

2 Answers

25cc featherlite weedeater not getting fuel into bulb when you pump it, nor does it seem to be getting any fuel at all. pour a little gas in carb and it will start and run til gas is gone. What's up with...


Check the condition of the fuel filter/fuel line inside the fuel tank. It could be clogged. The line that feeds the carburetor is connected to a fuel filter inside the fuel tank. Also, the carburetor could be clogged with debris, especially if the fuel line has come off of the filter inside the tank. They get brittle and break, sometimes causing your problem. There is a fine mesh screen inside the fuel pump side of the carburetor (the side without the vent hole) that sometimes needs to be cleaned off to allow proper fuel flow thru it. Remove the carb and remove the fuel pump cover and check the condition of the filter screen after checking condition of fuel lines and fuel tank filter.
The bulb will sometimes not "pull" and "push" the fuel right if the check valves inside the carburetor are malfunctioning, stuck or dirty. Start at the fuel tank and work your way to the carburetor. The fuel lines should be soft and pliable. Replace them if not. You should be able to blow air easily thru the fuel line that goes from the carburetor directly to the fuel tank. Check for all the above and post back if needed.

Oct 22, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Route for fuel lines of craftsmen chainsaw


In general, the routing is from the fuel filter in the tank, through about 3 inches of fuel line inside the tank, then through the upper wall of the tank near the carburetor position and up to the top of the carburetor. Don't make any sharp bends in the line or it will eventually kink at that point. The line within the tank should allow the filter to flop around to find the lowest pick-up point as the saw position is changed. If the saw has a primer bulb, it should pull fuel from the carburetor (at a lower port) into the bulb when it is pumped. Another line runs from the output side of the bulb back down into the tank to return fuel (no filter here). Fill the tank with fuel mix and attempt to pump fuel into the bulb from the carburetor (leave the return line loose for a test). If successful, attach the remaining line to the bulb, and attempt start. Hope this helps!

Apr 13, 2010 | Poulan Pro 42CC 2 Cycle Chainsaw, 18"

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