Question about Kenmore Dryers
On heating element right side there is clip, make sure is not bent. put heater assembly center of the housing, it will go some then you need to push with flat screw driver or so. hope this help.
Posted on May 04, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: replacing Kenmore dryer parts
that one is old enough to vote..if filter on top remove back find small hole on right just below top may be hidden by pasted on tech sheet..through hole insert long socket 5/16 or reach up from underneath with short ratchet and socket remove screws and attached wires lift element housing up slightly and pull bottom of housing out and down..5/16 screw on backside holdes element in
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
A replacement is usually around $40. There are usually 2 screws holding the element in the back of the stove. Turn off the power and remove the element. There are usually only 2 wires. It really doesn't matter which goes where. Install the new element and see if it will shut off when oven reachers temp. If it continues to heat, there is another piece that needs to be replaced. If there is a contactor or relay replace it, If not the thermostat needs to be replaced. Sometimes when the element burns out it shorts to the ground and fuses the contacts forcing the element to stay on. Sometimes you actually have to turn off the power to the stove.
Posted on Jul 15, 2008
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
If the model number you have this listed under is correct, the part numbers are as follows:
Heating Element - 279838
TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit - 279816
All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
All your heating circuits are accessible by removing the lower toe panel dire the rear of the dryer by removing the back panel. Just remove the screws around the perimeter of the back panel and the heating circuits will be located on the right-hand side. Refer to the exploded view diagrams at the websites I mentioned for reference. The heating circuitry is located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this helpful.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
Prices vary by model number and parts resources. The element usually cost somewhere between $30 and $50. Here's a few websites you can use for reference to get an idea of how much a replacement element can cost:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed also have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need.
NOTE: In many cases, if you are experiencing a no heat problem, the heating element is NOT the problem. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
If you have already diagnosed your problem, great. If you need to reassurance so you don't spend money you don't have to, the following links can give you some tips on how to troubleshoot a dryer:
If you have any questions, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can accurately determine how your dryer is configured. I hope you find this information helpful.
Posted on Mar 22, 2010
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