Question about Garden
Fix shear pin on mower
Take the tins of. take the nut that holds the flywheel on off and you will see the sheer key. if it is ok leave it alone. if it looks like the flywheel is not perfect with the crankshaft replace the key. it is some times hard to pop off but you can do it. go to you tube and watch a couple of videos on this process.
Posted on May 02, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: shear pin ??
You most likely have several teeth broken off the drive gear that drives the cutting block. Not too difficult to replace but you need some special tools. A deep well socket (I think it's about a 3/8") to remove the cutting block and replace the broken gear. The gear should be available from a Fellowes dealer, or they might sell it to you direct if there is no dealer near you. Let me know if this helps. Bill Monroe
You most likely have several teeth broken off the drive gear that drives the cutting block. Not too difficult to replace but you need some special tools. A deep well socket (I think it's about a 3/8") to remove the cutting block and replace the broken gear. The gear should be available from a Fellowes dealer, or they might sell it to you direct if there is no dealer near you.
Let me know if this helps.
Posted on Oct 16, 2007
First and foremost check to see if the crankshaft was bent when you hit the culvert. Remove the spark plug, Tilt the mower on its side at a 45 degree angle and while someone slowly pulls the starter rope see if the shaft where the blade attachs wobbles. If it does then you will need to replace the crankshaft (which can be expensive in some models). If it isn't bent, then the shroud that covers the flywheel is removed along with the other parts in that area and a flywheel "knocker" is used to remove the flywheel. At this point the old key is visible and you can see if it is sheered or not, If it is, then reverse the directions just followed after replacing the flywheel key. Chances are 99% it isn't the key, but the crankshaft.
Posted on Jun 15, 2009
I was able to find 3/32 x 1/2 inch spring pins at a local hardware for 13 cents each. They may not last as long, but at the price I can replace as needed.
I also had to disassemble twice; I didn't notice that a portion of the old pin was wedged in the underside of the burr. When I put it back together the first time, the new pin rested on the old fragment and pressed the burrs too close together. On the coarsest possible setting, I got coffee powder!
Final note: The nut for the cap over the burrs is reverse-threaded...use a wrench on top, and a flat-blade screw driver in the slot at the bottom of the motor shaft.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
The shear pin might keep it from starting but it will not cause the low compression. More than likely the low compression is a stuck valve which is a job for a professional. Take it to a good servicing dealer for his advice and estimate. Sometimes there is a gasket or a valve problem and a good experience mechanic can tell a lot by just listening to the engine for a few seconds.
Posted on Sep 13, 2009
Remove the spark plug.
Remove the blade retaining bolt, compression washer, and blade.
Most of the time the adapter just comes out.
Occasionally I have had to use a small hammer to tap it off of the shaft. Tap it in several places being careful not to damage the crankshaft.
A few, I have had to return the retaining bolt to the shaft leaving about a half inch between the bolt head and the adapter. I could then use a puller to remove the adapter. (WARNING! If you are not very careful, the puller can easily damage the retaining bolt and the crankshaft ruining the threads.)
NOTE: If you have a reliable slide puller, it's better to use that versus a compression puller.
Rarely have I had to cut the adapter away from the shaft. Only had to do that twice. (One was because the adapter and crank had corroded together, and the other the key sheered before the pins.)
Best of luck.
Posted on Sep 29, 2011
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