Question about Kenmore Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I went ahead and signed up for Sears' service warranty since I knew I had to get someone to come out. IT costs $200/yr. They say it covers everything, but when the technician came out, he told me that it just covers $500 per visit. He said that a new motherboard and the labor alone was going to make it $498. Anyway, he had ordered a new motherboard. Apparently the motherboard wasn't working. It is located in the back bottom left side of the refrigerator behind the panel. There is a compartment on the lefthand side that slides out and houses the motherboard. He put that in and also had to fix the fan that is in the back of the freezer. That fan is the one that sends cool air up to the refrigerator part. When I had looked at the fan before the repair man came, it was not moving at all. So at least take a look at the fan in the freezer. Just take out the freezer drawers, and the fan is located in the top center of the freezer behind the compartment cover. Maybe that's the problem with your refrigerator, the fan. Hope that's all it is. Good luck!
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
The unit was built bt LG. It is a computer controled unit and the timer is built into the main control board on back of the unit. However, the most likely cause of the broblem is the defrost terminator located on the evap on the upper right hand corner. Also, try unpugging the unit it will reset the computer board. You will also have to defrost the unit.
Posted on Aug 30, 2008
Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits,
such as ###.########
You can just enter your full model number at the Sears parts site.
On the resulting page, look to the right for the blue "View manuals" button. Click there.
That Sears-related site has many free manuals. While the manuals they list there are all free, they will ask you to register.
Many times, the owner's manual will have the installation instructions inside.
If yours is not listed there for free, you would have to order it through the Sears parts site.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jan 18, 2009
FL (flood condition) also can be an indicator of a bad pump. The washer tries to drain and cannot because the pump has failed or is jammed with debris.
You can run a complete washer diagnostic procedure to see if you can isolate the fault by doing the following. I recommend you make sure the room is quiet so you can hear the pump motor running when expected, as well as the main drive that nutates and spins.
Perform a "key dance" to put the washer in the diagnostic mode by pressing the Prewash Options button, Wash Time, Prewash Options, Wash Time - each 2 times in rapid succession within 5 seconds total. The display will change to 99 and begin counting down (in seconds) as it runs the following tests. Listen for the pump motor to actually run and not just "hum", indicating a jam or burnout.
Display 99-81, Nutate & fill
Display 80-61, Nutate & recirculate
Display 60-41, Nutate, Fill & drain **
Display 40-21, Nutate, Fill & drain **
Display 20-0, Spin & drain **
You can cancel the test in progress at any time by pressing the Stop/Cancel button.
**during these phases the pump will run forwards and backwards (recirculate & drain). If you do not hear water pumping inside the washer or draining out the drain, your pump is likely bad and needs to be replaced.
The old style pump was a two-part assembly and the re-engineered part # mentioned above is a single piece that solves the impeller failure problem the original pumps were prone to have.
www.pcappliancerepair.com sells replacement pump part # 285990 for this washer and they are a reliable supplier with a good value. You can purchase a lifetime warranty on the pump from them for an extra fee.
Unfortunately there is not enough room in this text box to post the pump removal & replacement procedure but you can get your local handyman to do the work for you if you are not inclined, as I was, to drain the washer and turn it on its side to figure out how to replace the pump.
The other problem is that once you start getting a pump failure you need to look at the root cause. If the pump was ruined by draw strings or debris being sucked into the pump impeller, it is time to replace the top wash plate assembly (the plastic plate inside the washer that the clothes sit on).
There is a rubber seal on the outside edge of this plate which wears out over time and rotates upward, opening a bigger gap between the plate and the stainless steel drum which lets draw strings and other things get sucked all the way down into the pump. The upper wash plate & seal is a single unit and the seal itself cannot be replaced as it is molded into the plastic piece. Order this from Sears to insure a more recent 'cure date' on the rubber seal from the manufacturer, rather than 3rd party suppliers who might stock the part for longer periods and have old rubber seals past their cure date. The wash plate should be replaced about every other year.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
SOURCE: I am getting an ER
This is an error code for the icemaker fan motor.
If the control does not see a signal coming back from the fan motor you will get this error code.
Please see the image below from the service manual that explains the ER IF error code.
The ER IF code indicates a failure of the icing fan.
You may notice slower ice production but the other fans should be okay.
You can select the ultra ice option and see if the fan toggles on.
The fan or the control is bad.
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Posted on Sep 25, 2010
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