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Can the right hand hydraulic drive on a Grasshopper mower model721 be rebuilt?

Going slower than the left drive and the linkage is adjusted the same. getting worse

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 Previa Van Rear Differential going bad

Oil loss, from where? Dropping from centre, or out through axles/ brakes? Obviously too late to reclaim, diffs are not an item you can repair yourself, best ask a specialist for opinion/ price to replace/ repair centre. Oil loss should not happen, can drop from centre via poor gasket or seal at input, or axle seals.
For a do- it- yourself type fix, a wrecker might supply a complete unit or centre section, but as you appear to have little knowledge of mechanicals, I'd say leave it to the experts!

Posted on May 16, 2008

  • 97 Answers

SOURCE: lawn tractor engine dies when pto unit is engaged

Check safety switches especially the seat switch.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: i have a zero turn, liquid cooled exmark mower

Lift the seat up and look for (rods) that run from the pump to the control sticks. There is a jam nut on these treaded rods, one for each hydro unit, use a marker and mark the position of the jam nut on the rod on the slow side, left you said. loosen the jam nut and turn the treaded rod a couple of turns one direction, then try the mower and see if it is faster on that side or slower, if it is slower then turn the treaded rod the oppisite direction that you just turned, If it is faster then it was before then adjust the rod till it is the same speed as the other side is. Tighten jam nut.

Posted on Sep 29, 2009

jdlipscomb41
  • 157 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Grasshopper zero turn mower that uses

yes just reguler hydralic oil it wont hurt a thing. but dont use atf its for transmissions in vehicles

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My WD external hard drive stopped working

wd external hard drive making ticking noise and seem to have lost all my photos and music

Posted on Apr 03, 2010

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Zt2560


Remove blade drive belt. turn each blade by hand. Sounds as if you have bearing problems. Each spindle has an upper and lower bearing of the same size. They are notorious for going out! You can get them at most any auto parts store. Also check the tensioner pulley bearing. They go out quite often. As for the jerking, make sure the two drive disengage rods are fully in. Check tension on drive belt and belt. These belts get worn quickly. Be sure to blow the trash and dirt from your mower after each use. Especially the Hydraulic motors and the mower deck. This will save you lots of trouble. If you wash the mower, be sure and run the blades and Hrdroes to get water dried from bearings and pulleys and belts.

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There are several things that could exist here with pulling to the right. Check air pressure, jack up front wheels off the ground and roll them by hand and see if they rotate with about the same pressure as wheel bearings may need adjustment or replaced. Check all your front end steering components and linkage for loose play. If it has a straight axle the camber/caster may possibly be adjusted which if off can also create this problem. I would check these out in sequence as I have listed them. Good luck!

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Instructions

Put on your work gloves. Check the frame size for your mower. It will either be a 56-inch frame mower or a 76-inch frame mower. When you have determined the frame size, adjust the tractor's rear wheels to the mower's frame size. For 56-inch frames, adjust the rear tractor wheels to 56-inch centers or less. The same rule applies for 76-inch frames.

Back the tractor into a position where you can align its left lower link to the mower's lift link pin. Attach these two parts together and secure the connection with the tractor linchpin.

Roll the tractor and adjust the leveling crank until the tractor's right lower link can be attached to the right link pin on the mower. Use the tractor linch pin to secure the connection.

Attach the upper link from the mower to the lower hole in the tractor rocker arm by using the link pin.

Start the tractor. Using the hydraulic control lever, lift the mower frame assembly slightly and move the mower to the left to allow attachment of the left stabilizer. Place the stabilizer guide under the tractor's left lift link. Position the clamp over the link and tighten the nut firmly

Depending on the tractor type, install the clamp plate or push rod anchor assembly onto the left lower link. Install the push rod on either the clamp plate or anchor assembly.

Shift the mower assembly to the right to attach the right stabilizer. Place the stabilizer guide under the tractor's right lift link. Position the clamp over the link and tighten the nut firmly.

Raise the mower using the hydraulic control, then attach the mower lift spring to the spring links with the pins that have been provided. Lower the mower assembly and turn off the engine.

Remove the tractor power takeoff (PTO) cap and connect the splined end of the mower's drive shaft to the PTO shaft. Secure the connection with the snap coupler found on the yoke.

Rotate the leveling crank to lower the frame, ensuring that it is parallel to the ground. Use the leveling crank lock to secure the crank lever.

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1 Answer

I have a Cub Cadet RZT 50 mower. The left drive


First, check the level of the hydraulic fluid (usually the dipstick is right inside the fill cap, and you just raise the seat to access it). If it's low, fill 'er up with the right fluid.

If that's OK, test if the lack of 'pull' affects the left wheel in both forward and reverse -- try going up a hill forward, and backing up it in reverse. If it affects both directions, maybe you will be lucky -- the problem could be that the bypass for the left hydraulic motor has opened somehow. (The bypass is used to let you push the mower by hand in case of an engine failure, etc.) So look for a fat-headed bolt sticking out of the left hydraulic motor. Check that it's tight -- rotate it just like you would tighten a bolt, clockwise. If it wasn't tight, that may be the problem; just tighten it and try the mower.

If this doesn't resolve it, you probably have a problem in the hydraulic valves, hoses, or motor, and a trip to the dealer is needed. Probably won't be cheap, sorry my friend. Good luck, and please rate if this was helpful, thanks!

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1967 case 990 tractor. My hydraulics raise but I can push them down by hand. I just purchased the tractor when I noticed water in the oil. I would like to test system pressure but I'm not sure at what...


On the right hand side of the axle on top is a cover with 2 slotted bolts holding it on. Pull this and you will see additional linkage, and a heavy cable which conrols the rockshaft. There should also be 2 valves under this cover. Pull the valves out, inspect for damage, clean them up real good and reinstall. If it continues to leak off at the rockshaft with hand pressure, Then readjust the linkages. NOTE: There are 7 adjustments to the linkage to get this to operate properly, each adjustment affects the sensitivity of the rockshaft and need to be done in sequence. Yours is a David Brown 990 tractor. Your Case dealership will have the manuals for the adjustment procedure. If after adjustment, it continues to leak off, you will need to pull the rockshaft cylinder inside the axle and have it rebuilt.

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I have a zero turn, liquid cooled exmark mower that has hyrdrolic steering. my problem is that when you want to go forward, the left side(sitting on mower) is so much slower than the right,so i have to...


Lift the seat up and look for (rods) that run from the pump to the control sticks. There is a jam nut on these treaded rods, one for each hydro unit, use a marker and mark the position of the jam nut on the rod on the slow side, left you said. loosen the jam nut and turn the treaded rod a couple of turns one direction, then try the mower and see if it is faster on that side or slower, if it is slower then turn the treaded rod the oppisite direction that you just turned, If it is faster then it was before then adjust the rod till it is the same speed as the other side is. Tighten jam nut.

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