Question about Samsung Refrigerators

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Samsung RS267LBSH/XAA evaporators (both the refrigerator and freezer sides) building up with frost. It works fine for about a week after defrosting with blow dryer, and then same problem happens.

The fridge side usually freezes up first. I replaced the temp and defrost sensors on the refrigerator side, still no luck. There doesn't seem to be a drain heater problem. I took both covers off and put it into forced defrost mode and neither heater (both sides) felt warm at all. There is a small crack in the evaporator cover on the fridge side, would that make it frost up on both sides or is it more likely the main pcb?

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Your defrost heaters are not working. The unit takes a week to freeze up and presto - poor cooling. Melt the ice and it works fine again till it freezes up again. Did you check out the defrost timer? Make sure that the defrost elements are not open.

Posted on Apr 30, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Where is the evaporator fan motor? My Freezer and fridge would quit cooling/freezing. I took the back panel off in the freezer a week ago and the evaporator coils were completely frozen over with ice. I...


I do not believe the problem is the fan. sounds like the frig. is low on Freon this is what will cause the ice build up. you need to find the leak, you can do this by spraying soapy water on coil tubes & watch for bubbles. repair leak & recharge.

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your getting ripped off try the defrost timer sounds like it is getting stuck, it operates on a 24 hour basis cycling between defrost, and turning compressor on and fan to cool the fridge

Sep 02, 2012 | Samsung Refrigerators

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Refrigerator will not defrost.It has to be shut off then it works fine for about two weeks.Otherwise frig is in perfect condition model tfao C646-7580090 serial 6fb05791 typetfa18


The heat strip located under the evaporator is not working. When the defrost cycle goes on, the strip turns on, generates heat, and melts the frost that has accumulated on the evaporator. Ergo no frost.

If the strip does not work the frost builds up and ice is an insulator; it will keep the freezer from going down to the correct low temp. And since the freezer is not as cold, ditto for the fridge.

Replace the strip and all will be fine.

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Model RS267LBSH/XAA - freezer working but refridgerator side warm (54 degrees). Heard sound like fan blade hitting, then no longer hear fan at all. What could it be


Have same model rs267lbsh/XAA and fix refrigerator. What I did was take off cover where evaporator is there a wire called defrost temperature sensor that goes bad I changed that sensor and my fridge is now working .if u need to ask me question please email me at jwilliams1957@sbcglobal.net

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Defrost not working heavy ice build up around coils


Hi

Frost is a natural occurrence on the evaporator coils in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator. To prevent frost buildup, a self-defrosting refrigerator warms the coils using a defrost heater several times each day to melt away the frost. This frost melts into water and flows out of the compartment through the drain. If any part of the defrost system is not working properly, the result can be heavy frost buildup that may affect the cooling capacity of the refrigerator.

The defrost timer is a mechanism that tells the defroster how long to run to melt the frost. The limit switch measures the temperature in the freezer and helps to maintain it, while the heater is the key element that melts the frost. Any one of these components could need replacement at a given time, which will result in this over-frosting.
Also check this bellow link:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_4504020_test-refrigerator-defrost-timer.html

Please get back to us if you have further query else please accept the suggestion.

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Mar 01, 2011 | Samsung RS2530BBP (25 cu ft) Side by Side...

1 Answer

We have heavy frost in the freezer of our Samsung refrigerator. What can we do?


Hello and Welcome to FixYa!

The heavy frost is basically due to the frost build up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing/opening the panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer that is exactly the thing you quoted. Such a frost build-up usually shows a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets. This refrigerator is supposed/designed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (usually a bi-metallic switch) The defrost heater
Also you need to clean the dust, lint from the condenser unit by using a condenser brush or a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust from the unit (it is usually located at the back of the refrigerator). If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor or in severe case it might be the main CU mal-function. If the problem still persists and the above quoted techniques/tips didn't work,You may need a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem.

Best of Luck,


Please do Rate the solution,as a token of appreciation,


Concerned.

Aug 11, 2010 | Samsung RM255LASH Side by Side...

1 Answer

Fridge-side not cold enough


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem


Jul 29, 2009 | Hotpoint HSS25GDMWW Side by Side...

1 Answer

Refrigerator side not cold


if you have frost build up on rear wall of freezer section then your unit is not going through defrost. its either defrost heater, defrost thermostat (which are both located on evaporator) or defrost timer

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1 Answer

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ice build up means your refrigerator is not going through defrost cycle. you have ice build up on evaporator which restricts your cold air flow into the fresh food side. check defrost timer, defrost thermostat located on evaporator behind the wall where your getting frost. check defrost heater. it wraps under the evap.

Jun 21, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

3 Answers

Freezer too cold


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


May 24, 2009 | Samsung 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

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