I have an older Norton 20KW electric furnace and I would like to know where to get a wiring diagram. I cannot get the fan to fun on E heat but it runs at any other setting.
Furnace is presently connected to a 4 ton Heat pump. Some one has interupted the wirng and put a relay for an electrostatic air cleaner. Could I be missing a conductor from the thermostat to the furnace, hence the neeed for a diagram
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Well Linda, is it the heat portion will not shut off or just the fan in the furnace that continues to run?? If the heat won't shut off, it will get uncomfortably HOT in your house, if its just the fan.....well, its just the fan.
More than likely its just the fan and it is running continually due to a stuck set of contacts in the control board or in the fan control board, if so equipped. If it is a furnace that is older than 15 to 20 years, it could be a mechanical relay that controls the fan directly off another control in the furnace vestibule that senses heat in the heat exchanger. If its an electric furnace, the first stage heat sequencer could be stuck closed causing continual fan operation and possibly one heat element is also energized. There are also several additional issues that could be the cause.
At any rate, its time to contact a reputable service entity to correct your problem. Good luck, Linda.
The problem is with the contacts in the fan relay, not with the thermostat. If it is an older furnace, the relay should be an individual component and is replaceable. If it is a newer furnace, the fan relay will be incorporated into the control board and cannot be replaced. Both of those answers above pertain if the furnace is a natural gas or LP furnace.
If it is an electric furnace, the first stage sequencer could be stuck closed because typically the first stage heat brings on the fan.
The standard color code for the HVAC is as follows....
Red=Hot or 24v
White 1=secondary heat.
The thermostat has the terminals marked R,Rh,W,G,Y.
The furnace should have a terminal strip with similar markings.
If you only have 1 control transformer this will be easy.
Hook the wires up using the colors I have listed. If you don't have the same color wires go with whats close to them....such as use Orange for Red etc. It really doesn't matter as long as they are landed on the same terminals on the thermostat and furnace. Two wires running to A.C unit outside put one on Y the other on C. If you need any more help let me know!
On properly sized furnaces there are a few controls to look at. Check the settings of the fan switch. If these are unchanged then there may be a reason the furnace is shutting off due to poor air flow and resulting high temperature. Check filter and verify air flow is good. It may be possible that a safety switch is failing and intermittently on and off. Are all the covers securely in place and hitting any safety switches? If not seated properly the cover may loosen when the fan runs and the switch shut off the unit. There is often a flame roll out switch that could have been strained. Lastly, has the thermostat been working long? Thermostats have internal heaters to stop the furnace which is called a heating anticipator. If the thermostat is near a heat source (heat duct, refrigerator, oven, person, hot water pipe), worn out, anticipator is set wrong (older electric thermostats have adjustable settings) or covered (yes, I have seen some covered) then the free room air cannot measure correctly and the thermostat cannot control what it cannot accurately measure. Of all these possibilities I would start with the thermostat and proper furnace air flow, second check the fan/high limit switch and third go component by component through the wiring diagram looking for defects in each component. If available follow the manufacturer's troubleshooting guide.
Maybe there is a blockage in the air conditioning coil above the furnace? This happens when people have pets, or dont use filters. Single phase 120-240 volt motors won't run backwards if you reverse the wiring that's dc or three phase, you have to check the rotation of the wheel, the right rotation is usually marked on the blower case. Some motors will allow you to change the rotation but you have to check the wiring diagram. Also use new capacitors when they go bad the motor can run backward. God luck
Older furnaces used to have a fan switch that read winter or summer, or auto and on. You should also have a fused switch to the furnace, wiring runs black to the switch thru the fuse and to the furnace black wire. White wire is straight to furnace from electrical panel. This is for power feed to furnace only. Now the thermostat is red to the transformer white to white. This was a very simple old furnace they had very little safety devises. The fan switch was an older high end model so you could blow the cool air from the basement thru out the whole house in the summer, and the fan ran constantly.
OK so its an all electric furnace no gas? I cant think of anything clicking on an electric furnace except the sequencers or the safety switches.
If this is whats your hearing then the fan should definitely be running.
Feel carefully around the fan motor (I assume this is in a mobile home). See if you detect any heat coming around the blower area close to the fan motor. If so the fan motor may be at fault or one sequencer may be out (the main one of course...) the thing is can you get the fan to come on by turning the auto switch on the thermostat (or if older model the Auto On switch on the furnace) to ON? If so you can "limp by and have heat til someone either checks it or you can go on deeper into it. but to go deeper you'll have to let me know you know where the elements are and that you have a volt meter. and feel comfortable using it especially on HOT wires.
no the older rheems had a sequencer for the heat that turned on the blower at the same time that the heat strios are energized. so the first thing that you need to do is figure out the sequencer that is keeping the fan running and get it replaced.