Question about HP LaserJet 4600dn Color Printer

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Won't finish "Initializing"

I cleaned the sensor and actuator on the arm that actuate the 4 clutches on the left side, and that stopped the intermittent grind. It stays in INTIALIZE. The fuser is warm but not hot.

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Try holding down the go button while turning on the power...this will reinitiailize the printer and possibly wipe out some network settings, but may fix your problem...

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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Very rarely is a power cord faulty....try holding down the go button while powering on the machine to perform a hard reset...you may lose some of your network settings, but this may cure the problem... also try downloading and installing the latest firmware for the printer from HP....search for this filename at support and downloads...
clj4600fw_win_03_016_0.exe

Posted on Aug 09, 2009

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Do you have the printer plugged into a power bar or attached to an extension cord? Sounds like the unit isn't getting enough power to it to fully initialize and properly heat the fuser. Try plugging it directly into a power outlet, even if it means moving the unit to confirm if it might be an issue with the currently electrical connection. Try another power cord as that may also work, as well as a different outlet if you can. If it makes no difference you may be looking at one of the power supplies needing to be replaced...possibly the high voltage power supply, if I remember correctly.

Posted on Jul 27, 2009

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1 Answer

I have a 2011 Chevy Traverse that blows hot air.


Depending if it's manual temp control or auto.............

Here's manual

1 - Air Temperature Sensor - Upper Left
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3 - Air Temperature Sensor - Lower Right
4 - Air Temperature Actuator - Right
5 - Mode Actuator
6 - Air Temperature Sensor - Upper Right
7 - Blower Motor
8 - Blower Motor Control Module
9 - Evaporator Temperature Sensor
10 - Air Temperature Sensor - Lower Left




26128900-uuob5xk5qpmufdktz2iyu4qm-2-0.gif

Here's auto

1 - Mode Actuator
2 - Recirculation Actuator
3 - Blower Motor
4 - Blower Motor Control Module
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6 - Evaporator Temperature Sensor



26128900-uuob5xk5qpmufdktz2iyu4qm-2-1.gif

Mar 13, 2016 | 2011 Chevrolet Traverse

1 Answer

The running bords on my 2008 Yukon stop working


Circuit/System Description
The assist step control module (ASC) controls the running board actuators to extend or retract the running boards. Each actuator consists of an electric motor and a potentiometer. The module supplies a low reference and 10-volt reference source voltage to the potentiometer. The ASC control module monitors the voltage drop across the potentiometer on the position signal circuit. When the actuator shaft rotates, the voltage on the position signal circuit changes. The ASC control module supplies the actuator motor with a 12-volt control circuit and a ground control circuit. The ASC module controls the direction of the actuator by changing the polarity of the control circuits.
You should take this to a ASE certified repair shop that has the diagnostic tools to check for stored DTC'S in the running board control module . A code reader for check engine light codes will not work for this system !
This system can set numerous DTC'S
?€¢
Diagnostic Procedure Instructions provides an overview of each diagnostic category.

DTC Descriptors
DTC B051A 0B: Left Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Current Above Threshold

DTC B051A 01: Left Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Short to Battery

DTC B051A 02: Left Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Short to Ground

DTC B051A 04: Left Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Open Circuit

DTC B051B 0B: Right Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Current Above Threshold

DTC B051B 01: Right Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Short to Battery

DTC B051B 02: Right Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Short to Ground

DTC B051B 04: Right Side Assist Step Motor Control Circuit Open Circuit

DTC B051C 01: 10 V Reference Circuit Short to Battery

DTC B051C 02: 10 V Reference Circuit Short to Ground

DTC B051C 2A: Left Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Too Many Pulses

DTC B051C 22: Left Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Low Time < Minimum

DTC B051C 29: Left Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Too Few Pulses

DTC B051C 62: Left Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Actuator Stuck Open

DTC B051C 63: Left Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Actuator Stuck Closed

DTC B051D 2A: Right Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Too Many Pulses

DTC B051D 22: Right Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Low Time < Minimum

DTC B051D 29: Right Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Too Few Pulses

DTC B051D 62: Right Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Actuator Stuck Open

DTC B051D 63: Right Side Assist Step Position Sensor Circuit Actuator Stuck Closed
If you don't know how the system works you could make it worst !
You

Aug 16, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i change clutch release arm


I believe the arm is on top of the case on the left hand side attached to a shaft that goes into the case. It also may have a bolt in the side of the case below the arm that has a machined shoulder on it to retain the shaft from pulling out. If it does, remove it.If this is the way it's set up, it actuates the clutch thru a rod that goes all the way across the motor inside the hollow shaft that the clutch is mounted on. I don't have specific experience to the 250 KX, but I've been in the little ones and that's the way they're set up. So here's what you do-
Drain the gear oil and remove the round clutch cover on the right side of the bike. Remove the 5 or 6 washered bolts and the springs from the clutch pressure plate. Remove the pressure plate and you'll see the clutch lifter-it's a short rod with a flat bearing on it located in the middle of the clutch shaft. Remove it and using a small magnet tool go inside the hollow shaft and retrieve the actuating rod. There may be a ball bearing with it as well, although I don't think there is in that bike. Anyway, don't lose it if it has one and pay attention to which end of the shaft goes to the clutch arm. You can now replace the arm. When your putting it back together, rotate the arm with your fingers and make sure the lifter is moving up and down before you put the pressure plate and springs back in. Good luck!

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1 Answer

De-frost does not work on the driver's side? Help


Hello! The drivers side Actuator is defective..Chevrolet Part.Number 15844096 - $38.46...The drivers side actuator is accessed by removing the bottom dash cover on the drivers side...Two easy clips to disconnect the dash cover, remove the floor courtesy light by twisting, and the cover comes out...There are two screws holding the actuator on...Use a 1/4 hand driver with a 3" extension, a 1/4 universal joint for the 1/4 socket ( a universal is needed and a 7/32" socket...Pull the actuator off of a small arm it is connected to which switches the flap for the climate control system between hot or cold...

Guru....saailer

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1 Answer

Still runs great never sliped never smelt burnt doesnt engage


No idea what type of bike you have however, is the clutch lever pulling the cable against any tension, if no, it may just be the cable. Follow cable to engine and see if it actuates the clutch actuating arm or spindle. If lever operates okay and actuates clutch actuating arm, returning when released, your problem lies within. Warm engine and drain oil, remove clutch cover (careful of gasket and dowels) and inspect function of actuating arm against clutch thrust rod. If this is okay, your clutch basket may be undone on the spline, or the idler cog that drives the clutch basket is faulty.
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1 Answer

Spin cycle on a Whirlpool washing machine does not work


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1 Answer

No heat from driver side


The vent actuator door may have gone bad and needs to be replaced. The common problem is not the motor but the actuator gears crack and break, but try to reset the actuator buy disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it first, but make sure the radio is turned off before you do that. If the actuator lost it's position, this procedure will reset the actuator's position if it's lost and don't know where to turn the vent doors.

This is how to replace drivers side or the passenger side actuator. Passenger side difference is noted at end of this letter. My 2000-2005 Chevy Impala driver side climate control was stuck on cold, no matter where I switched it to. The light on the panel was also out. Resetting by disconnecting the battery did not work. I had to buy and replace the drivers side actuator (Part Number 15844096 - $38.46 at Chevy dealer). The passenger side actuator is also the exact same part number. They are both located under the dash, about equal height as the climate control knobs. Make sure you disconnect the positive cable on the battery before removing the switch. Drivers side actuator is accessed by removing the bottom dash cover on the drivers side. Two easy clips to disconnect the dash cover, remove the floor courtesy light by twisting, and the cover comes right out. The drivers side actuator is harder to work on than the passenger side, due to room. But I replaced my actuator with only having to take off the bottom dash cover. There are two screws holding the actuator on. I used a 1/4 hand driver with a 3" extension, a 1/4 universal joint for the 1/4 socket (and the universal is needed), and a 7/32" socket. These were the only tools I needed. After unscrewing the two screws, I pulled the actuator off of a small arm it is connected to which switches the flap for the climate control system between hot or cold. I then was able to let it hang down, and disconnected the wire running to the actuator. Room was an issue, and I did some of this by feel. Now comes the tricky part. The new actuator has to slide back on the small arm, but it is flat on two sides, with rounded ends. The new actuator has to match the flat ends to the same position as the old actuator. I hooked the wire onto the new actuator, and let it hang down. I held the old actuator up by it, and had my wife hold the battery connector to the battery to get power. The new actuator will rotate when the connection is made, and stopped rotating when I had my wife pull the connector from the battery. It took a couple tries, but I finally got it to stop at the same position as the old actuator. I then lined up the new switch, and got it on the control arm. This took a few minutes and tries, as I had to do it by feel. I then put the two screws back in and tightened them down. Again, tricky due to room. Once done, I put the cover back on, reconnected battery, and warmed up the car. Was very happy to find that I now had heat on the drivers side, as Canadian weather is cold this time of year.
The whole job took me about an 1 1/2 hour to do.
Also, note if you have to replace the passenger side actuator, you need to remove the passenger side bottom cover on the dash. You then remove the glove compartment door by removing the five screws on the bottom of the door. Slide the whole glove compartment door out of the car. You will be happy to know you have much more room to replace the passenger side actuator, so it should be much easier and quicker than the drivers side.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1cee7db.jpg

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1 Answer

Error 07.003.45


Yeah. What most likely has happened is that the switch actuator in the registration transport you removed snapped. It is on that metal transport you remove on the upper part of the machine.
The actuator is located on the left side of that transport. It has a black plastic shaft on it about 6 or so inches long. The actuator sticks up through an opening . There is a flag that is about a half an inch high and maybe 1/4 of an inch deep that has snapped off. That is the most likely cause.
OTHER things to look at are this. 1 Did you remember to plug the electromechanical clutch back in? 2, Did you get the clutch mounted correctly, there is a fork on the clutch that has to be slipped through a metal tab to be sure the clutch does not spin when it is engaged. # Did you get the black drive belt back on behind the clutch?
Before removing that transoort again and seeing if that actuator is broken, remove the left side cover and see if any of the issues with the clutch are the problem. Then look at the actuator.

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