Fridge is cooling then it stops cooling then later cools again?

SOURCE: kenmore fridge stopped cooling

sounds like its freezing up on you. check the drain outlet and make sure that its clear. also i would replace the defrost timer on this unit because its suppose to bring on the heaterfs to melyt the ice so thaat yoiu don't have to. they are around 30 mdollars at the appliancew repair store and all you need is the model number and serial number for the uit. after you get it it's either on the very top of the refrigerator section or in the very back. It has 4 wires going to it. good luck.

SOURCE: Not cooling, unpluged for few hours, it worked fro couple of weeks, stopped cooling again 2 days ago, I unplugged for few hours, It is working now

Your defrost system is bad. Replace the defrost thermostat and defrost heater in the freezer.

Mike Price

• 744 Answers
• Posted on Jun 23, 2009

SOURCE: fridge/freezer cooling inefficiently

Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.

SOURCE: Fridge wasn't cooling but freezer was working, now both aren't

Hi,Your husband did good job, after cleaning and vacuuming, did freezer (bottom) have excessive ice?, if there's excessive ice in bottom, after cleaning, you have a defrost problem, but if there're no ice in freezer after cleaning, you got freon (gas leak) , there's a condensate loop, that passes through ref. body, from compressor that naturally develop, freon leak after few years, by rusting, normally it can be by- pass. vacuum and refill with freon, if there's no freezing, but compressor running, you'll need a mechanic, you got a freon leak. good luck.

SOURCE: Refrigerator/freezer stopped cooling during a heat wave

Good day,
Turning the thermostat to a warmer setting should not have caused the machine to quit cooling. Actually, the engineers give you far less leeway than you might think.
The controls are more in a class of fine tuning, otherwise people would be getting themselves into trouble. The manufacturers simply design the warm and cold parameters in a fairly narrow range.
The best setting is normal. When away, the machine will run far less simply because of no door openings. Opening a door lets in large amounts of air every time it's done, which is where your cost to run it exists.
Two things. One, if the temp in the kitchen exceeded 90 degrees for any length of time, you are operating it beyond it's design range, however two, it sounds as if the thermostat hung up, causing your issue. You may want to have it replaced, but it would be useless to call anyone when it's performing normally.
There is no test on thermostats other than by observing their action when the machine is not operating properly.

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