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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
When the pressure switch fails the comperssor will overpressure to the point of safety release at about 150 - 160 psi. It sounds as if your compressor is not producing enough pressure to cycle off at 120 and just keeps running. This happens when air is leaking from fittings or worn cylinder / reed valves. Don't worry, with some simple tests we will find the actual problem. I am assuming that your compressor is oilfree type. If there are leaks the compressor may not reach set pressure. I use soapy water on all connections and on the head/headvalve (remove plastic covers to get to all parts that may leak) while compressor is running. Make repairs as necessary. If still low pressure, while compressor is running and has reached max obtainable pressure (in your case 60 lbs), carefully place finger over intake port hole (remove filter). If the compressor is pumping normally but leaking there will be ample suction at intake and cause the compressor to speed-up when intake is obstructed with finger. If you feel plenty of suction and no visible (soapy water) leaks, then the problem is probably the cylinder /ring is not correctly seating /scratched and air is leaking past cylinder. Make sure that the cylinder /piston ring is properly aligned and that the lip on the vinyl ring is up toward the head. On oilfree compressors you can examine the cylinder by pushing the piston all the way up, then look for scratches neer top of cylinder. If scratched, pressure is leaking past cylinder, install cylinder kit. If you do not feel suction but rather air blowing out of the intake, (do this test when tank has reached 60 psi) then the problem is the headvalve plate/reed valves are leaking. The reeds must seal perfectly on their seats and not be bent or have obstruction. Replace as necessary. If reeds or headgasket is leaking the discharge air will be very hot. Only one other thing to check and that is the intank check valve. Easy to check. Run compressor till you have about 50+ lbs in the tank then unplug compressor. Carefully loosen the inlet hose at checkvalve and listen for air leaking out of tank. (check valve is the brass valve at tank) If leaking replace checkvalve. Use caution when removing head to try and save the gaskets. If you have oil type pump, and no air leaks (soapy water test) suspect reed valves/valve plate. Good luck on your repair and email if you have other question.
Posted on May 09, 2009
just had the same problem with the cap2040 .. fixed with about 5 cents of wd40.
previous post was on the right track. theres a stuck pressure relief valve.
1. find the 1/4 inch black plastic hose running from one side of the compressor to the switch box unit and guages.
2. follow this plastic hose to where it meets the pressure relief valve and enters the switch box.
3. the pressure relief valve is a small black plastic unit with a little ring of copper at the point where the plastic hose enters the valve. the valve will be somewhat loose if you tug on the hose you may notice the valve shift 1 mil or two.
4. the valve is held in by a C-clip from the backside. to remove the valve look for a small plastic tab with a hole in the top of it. this tab is the C-clip. it'll be directly behind the valve. and in a very tight spot. using small needle nose plyers or a small screw driver, pry the C-clip UP and out. the valve will come right out.
5. to disconnect the plastic hose from the valve, press the brass fitting with a screwdriver or the like and pull the hose out of the valve. it's a typical pressure fitting if you're used to those.
6. spray some WD into the valve and reconnect it to the hose by pushing the hose into the valve, it'll lock itself in place.
7. turn on your compressor and listen/watch/feel for the air coming out of the backside of the valve. you should see a small brass pin at the end of the valve. when operating properly, this copper pin should stick out about 3mm. at this point, the pin is probably stuck inside. you mission is to free the pin.
8. work this little brass pin with a small screwdriver - gently and from both sides. separate valve from hose again if needed. it's spring loaded and will eventually work loose. run some air through it to clear out the WD. repeat with WD until the pin is freed and sticking out about 2-3mm.
9. before reassembly, cut off about 1/4 inch off the end of the plastic hose, this will ensure you get a good solid connection with the valve. there's enough hose so you can lose up to an inch before having issues.
10. reassemble in reverse. the hardest part will be putting the C-clip back in. took me 2 tries and about a minute with small needle nose.
little late on this post .. but maybe it'll still help you or someone.
Posted on Dec 30, 2009
60psi hmmmmm??? it wont even start up on that?? yes it is very low
most engines run on about 120 to 180psi and the 120psi end being low! how did you test this presher??? you need a good true screw in gage and a very strong swing to build the presher up a push in gage is usless and a soft pull wont build the presher up,,,it dont realy matter how big the engine is or how many cc's it is it still needs to get to 120psi to start and run well,,,,me thinks you may need a set of piston rings fitted to this engine just to run it up,
Posted on Jun 29, 2010
I'm a retired engineer and work PT as a tool tech for an HD rental ctr.
Compression on a new cylinder/piston is 160 psi. When it drops into the 130~140 psi range the saw becomes hard to start. Below 130 the saw will not run properly and at 90 they are toast. This is mainly due to improper fuel/oil mix (must be one bottle of 50:1 synthetic oil per gallon of regular gas. I use 6 bottles to 5 gallons for addition protection). Because this type of tool works in extremely harsh conditions (concrete dust) it is also imperative to keep the air filters clean. Wash the foam pre-filter after each use with plain water from a garden hose and discard after operating 6 times. Toss away (change with new) the paper filter if dust is present or when changing the pre-filter. Also check the carb hose to the cylinder inlet for cracks. My cost to get a cylinder/piston from Makita runs app. $130. When looking into the cylinder, streaks on the exhaust side indicate improper fuel/oil mix. Streaks on the intake indicate dirty air intrusion.
Posted on Nov 30, 2010
If your compressor is oil-less type, most likely pressure is leaking past piston ring. To verify, remove cover to expose bottom of cylinder (unplug compressor and let out all air). With flashlight, examine the upper-most part of the cylinder (turn motor by hand till piston is at top of stroke). If top of cylinder is scratched, then pressure is leaking past.
For many years now, stores are in a race to have more HP and PSI to attract customers. Customer is really the loser because components used to make the units can not handle the higher pressure. Normally small 115v compressors are set to cut out at 125psi and larger two stage units will cut out at 160psi. Small compressor set to 200psi makes for short lived compressor. Could be compared to driving your car at 100mph all day every day. Longest life is attained when unit is being used at about 60 to 75 % of capacity.
To allow your compressor to reach cutout pressure and keep working for a while, lower cutout to 120psi (pressure switch may be adjustable). To restore to 200psi, replace cylinder/ ring.
If your compressor is oil type, suspect leaking reed valves.
Posted on Nov 28, 2011
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