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Cadco oven will heat to low temperature but will not climb to actual set point

We have the set point at 356F but the oven will only get to 200F at best. The fan and motor are working. The heating elements are working. We are in manual mode.It's getting the correct power.

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6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: oven no heat

check fan element hasnt blown remove back plate in oven after switching off from mains of course and remove the retaining screws and you will see a fan and around that the element it will be obvious to see if its blown as there will be a hole on the casing if so replace and viola.

Posted on Feb 06, 2008

  • 190 Answers

SOURCE: Bosch oven not heating to temp

Dear customer,
i recommend u to try the following routine to sort out this problem

  • Check timer and clock settings
  • Reseat the element
  • Test the element
  • Test the element connectors
  • Test the oven temperature control
  • Test the oven selector control
  • Recalibrate the temperature control

  • hope u find this useful. thank you.

    Posted on Jul 09, 2008

    barkencoa
    • 3463 Answers

    SOURCE: smeg oven

    Sounds like you need a new oven element fitting.

    Posted on Dec 08, 2008

    • 3230 Answers

    SOURCE: GE JTP 1580W288 Set oven to Bake, switches to broil at bake temp

    The F2 Error code means the oven has detected an excess temperature condition. Most often this is due to a bad temperature sensor - the sensor costs about $75 from an online repair site. 
    How to remove and replace the temperature sensor. In most GE ovens, when you open the door, you'll see the rod-shaped temperature sensor sticking out of the back wall at the upper left. It's about six inches long and a bit more than 1/8" in diameter, held in place with two screws. 

    Turn off the circuit breaker (built-in ovens) or unplug the range before attempting the replacement. 

    The replacement sensor will come with instructions, but basically it's a matter of removing the sensor, pulling out the wires to where they are connected and disconnecting them. You may have to snip. The replacement sensor will come with high-temp wire nuts to hold the new connection. Polarity doesn't matter; it's a straight resistance thermocouple. Hook it up, be sure you poke the connections back far enough so that they're on the other side of the thermal insulation and not resting against the back of the oven. 

    If you continue getting the F2 error after replacing the sensor, then the problem is likely in the control module - this is the circuit board behind the keypad and clock. 

    You'll need to remove the decorative bezel to get behind the control panel. Remove screws and set off parts in order - it's not complicated. Once the bezel is off there are two more screws that hold the panel in place. Then you can lift the panel up about a half inch and pivot it forward toward you. You'll see a bunch of wires going to a circuit board. 

    On the panel you will notice some black plastic boxes that say "Potter & Brumfield" on them. These are relays. Check the relays - slide the black plastic cover straight up to expose the coil and the contacts. The coil, when energized, closes the contacts - look at all the relays. You can manually close the contacts with your finger (be gentle). If the contacts of one of them are stuck, they might be welded together. You can fix the problem by prying apart the welded contacts gently with a knife blade. Take some time to gently polish the relay contacts with a folded bit of fine grain sandpaper - this will get some more life out of them. Be gentle and careful - the relays aren't complicated but if you bend the contact or rip it out, you'll have to replace the controller, which will set you back a couple hundred dollars. If you unstick and burnish the relays, they will probably eventually weld together again as the rough spot will spark, but when you burnish them with sandpaper they should be good for some more life before they need to be replaced. 

    If the problem isn't the temp sensor or welded relay contacts then the problem is obviously somewhere else, but temp sensor and relay contacts will account for the lion's share of F2 errors. 

    Once again, be safe, be careful, be gentle. Ovens are not very complicated and they're tough, but always exercise care. Always disconnect electricity before messing with them.
    good luck,

    Posted on Jun 28, 2009

    • 291 Answers

    SOURCE: Oven doesn't reach temperature setting

    It could be the plug/receptacle that the element plugs into. It could also be that the elements have separate thermostats and that the one for the lower element is bad. If you can post the model number I can look at the electrical schematic and know for sure if it has one or two thermostats.

    Posted on Aug 31, 2009

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    One thing you can do is remove the thermostat bulb from the oven and place place it in a position where it will not heat up. Place an oven thermometer in the oven. Switch on and see of the temperature climbs above what you wee seeing before. This is a very much hands on test as you have no control over the temperature that the elements can get to. As soon as you see the temperature reach a point above that seen before, shut down immediately.

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    The most common oven sensor should be approximately, 1100 ohms when at room temperature. The others may be close to as follows:

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    200°F - 1350 ohms
    300°F - 1553 ohms
    350°F - 1654 ohms
    400°F - 1753 ohms
    500°F - 1949 ohms

    If the sensor test is adequate, and the wiring is Ok at the control, this will lead to a failed control board. replace the control in this case.

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