Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Just a guess, but I would check the gasket on the door. They can go bad or get distorted and bunch up and cause the door to bind and not close properly. Also check that the fridge is leveled properly. Will the door close if pushed? Will it stay closed?
Posted on Jan 06, 2008
Check to see if there is any ice built up on the back wall of the freezer. If so thaw the ice and take the back wall out of the freezer. next check to see if the fan is running in the freezer (evaporator fan) This fan is what circulates the air from the freezer to the fridge. If it does run then you have a defrost problem (if ice is on the coils and back wall). Then replace defrost timer, heater, and thermostat.
Posted on Nov 20, 2008
The repair guy did what any repair guy would have done under a warranty situation such as yours... door gaskets. I presume he explained why he was doing what did ("why's" are important, ya know...). If he didn't, let me run through it real quick, OK?
Warm air holds moisture and cold air doesn't... that it in a nutshell. But what's important to note is that if there is an air leak inside your freezer you'll notice it just as you have, with condensation forming. This tells the repair guy that cold air is escaping and warm air is entering the freezer. The first place to look is the door gasket and that's why he replaced it. But now you know it wasn't the gasket, right?
So the repair guy didn't find the source of the air leak. It happens. The reason is that most "factory" tech's are trained on the fly and have the habit of not looking too deep into a problem 'cause they're warranty guys. They get paid whether or NOT a problem was fixed. See? Independent repair guys like me only get paid WHEN the job is fixed. So there's a GREAT incentive for me to get it right the first time, right? (I'm not "bashing" them. I'm just clarifying that warranty repairs are hit and miss at best.)
The thing you gotta think about is "How many places are there for cold air to escape and warm air to enter?" The answer to that question is "4". Yep. FOUR places that this can happen and each of them have to be inspected for evidence of moisture. They are;
1.) Behind the fridge where the ice maker water tube is inserted through the cabinet and into the freezer.
2.) Behind the fridge where the wire bundle enters the freezer compartment.
3.) Behind the fridge in the compresser compartment where the evaporator drain comes OUT of the freezer compartment.
4.) The door gasket.
Since your unit is still under warranty I certainly wouldn't expect you to chase these down for yourself. You should call GE again and have the repair guy come do this for you (print this out so you will have the above checklist). This is to protect your warranty, by the way. If you (or an appliance repair company NOT authorized to work on it) work on it, you run the risk of voiding the warranty altogether.
There's a product on the market called "PermaGum" (here's a link). It's used to seal air leaks such as this. When you talk to GE, try to insist that the tech have some on his truck when he arrives... I have the feeling that he'll need it because I suspect a leak is occurring in one of the top 3 areas I mentioned above (either that, or he didn't install the door gasket correctly in the first place).
As an aside? Just a tip/hint... I know that your fridge is new and all, but to KEEP the door gaskets like new for (almost) ever, use Vaseline on them. Yep, Vaseline. Open the fridge door, dab your finger into the Vaseline and smear a light (light) coat of it on the door gaskets all the way around. This will do 2 things;
1.) It'll keep the door gaskets from ever drying out.
2.) It'll provide a very good and air-tight seal when the door is closed. (air leak, Laura?)
There ya go! I hope this has helped you in your quest to rid you freezer of pesky condensation. If so, please remember to rate this as "It fixed my problem", OK? After that, you can mix up a Mojito and bask in the knowledge that you are a completely informed consumer when the GE guy gets there to finally fix your fridge.
Posted on May 07, 2009
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
Testimonial: "THANKS... it's all defrosted and cleaned out and will wait to see what it does tomorrow after it's all back up and running again !! Thanks !"
you have a blocked drain,try this,pull out the machine,unplug it,remove the bottom panel,lie on the floor and with a light look up or feel around,there's a nipple that's there that the water drains out of or drips through,i've been removing the nipple,running it under water to clean it,but it has to go back,if you don't put it back you'll have problems,this keeps the warm air from getting into the freezer,before you put it back on get a hair dryer and melt out the ice,just heat up the back freezer wall and then pour hot water down through the back wall,if the water drains out you don't have to take the freezer draws and racks out,they changed them all around and i can't explain how to do it and if you pull it out and don't line the two wheels up correctly the door won't close right,i mark them with a marker before i pull them out,it sucks to do and is very ridiculous,you need a manual just to remove these parts,if this doesn't have a nipple on it and has a drain hose there you can try to clean it out from that end,you can get a piece of 1/4 in water line like they use for the water lines on the fridge,buy a piece and snake it up through the drain hose and then blow through it then flush water through the back inside freezer wall,slime builds up in the drain hose on all machines so once it's freed up it will drain,you might think that if you go from the back you'll push it up into the freezer and it will happen again it won't,once you hit it and free it up it will break apart and every time the machine defrosts the water will wash any parts that is still in there out.i'll try to see if i can find any videos on line for you to show how to remove the shelves and racks and then to line them up again but try going from the back first.good luck.
Posted on Aug 10, 2012
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