HOW DO I BRIDGE OUT FROM A SA.LE3000 POWER AMP TO FOUR 15INCH SPEAKERS TWO CABS HAVE HORN SPEAKER AND THEY ARE 400 WATTS RMS EASH.AND THE OTHER TWO CABS HAVE 15 INCH SPEAKERS BLACK WIDOS
WELL IM TRING TO GET 3000 WATTS OUT OF THIS AMP.TO PUSH ALL OF THIS SPEAKERS.IM TRYING TO GET PERTTY GOOD PA SESTEM TOGETHER I PLAY IN A THEE PEACE BAND AND I WANT TO RUN DRUMS GUITAR AMPS AND MIKS BASE GUITAR AMP
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Those specs would be right - I have this same board but the amp was fried by a previous owner. I pulled the amp board out and tossed it and use the mixer now to drive an external amp. Great board.
This amp is rated at 1200W "peak", bridged into an 8ohm load. That would equate to about 900W RMS bridged into 8ohm or 450 per side into 4ohm loads per side.
You can't daisy chain all 4 speakers....impedance would be too low. You can run two of your 8ohm speakers per side - that results in a 4ohm load per side for the amp. That would give you amp delivery of 450W per side. Your speakers are rated to handle more than that so you're fine.
For the record.....you could run one speaker per side no problem....just lower power output.
The Peavey CS4080HZ is intended to place 2,040 watts
per channel into four-Ohm-rated speaker
impedances. The "HZ" suffix is intended
to state the amplifier has a relatively high
impedance output and is optimized for no
lower than four-Ohm loads. Are you strapping in Bridged or Stereo Mode? Bridged Mono Operation
Both amplifier channels can be bridged together to make a very powerful single-channel monaural amplifier. Use
extreme caution when operating in the bridged mode; potentially lethal voltage may be present at the output
terminals. To bridge the amplifier, depress the rear panel Bridge switch to the IN position. Direct the signal to channel
A's input and connect the speakers across the hot outputs (the "+" binding posts) of channels A and B. Only channel
A's input attenuator is active while in Bridge Mono mode. Both connectors are strapped together, so either connector
can be used with a patch cable to drive the input of another amplifier.
Unlike the stereo mode, in which one side of each output is at ground, both sides are hot in bridged mode. Channel A's
side is the same polarity as its input with the minimum nominal load impedance being 4 ohms (equivalent to driving
both channels at 2 ohms) in bridged mode. Driving bridged loads of less than 4 ohms will activate the DDT
circuitry, resulting in a loss of power, and may also cause a thermal (overheating) overload.
Therefore, check the impedance of the cabs for each mode. Remember, if you connect two individual speakers in Parallel (+ to + and - to -) you cut the impedance in half. Two 8 ohm speakers in parallel now have a load of 4 ohms. Series connection + to - to + to -, will double the impedance. Two 8 ohm speakers will have a load of 16 ohms.
I have actually taken a two speaker cab with a 4 ohm impedance and opened up the back to re-do the wiring. I rechecked the impedance with a ohm meter. So yes, be careful. Whatever you do, keep the speaker lengths as short as possible. Buy really good speaker wire or if you make your own, go with 10 gauge wire.
You can do that but your subs will have to be monsters or you will blow them out as bridged mode will drive 2400 watts RMS into 4 ohms. Many speakers are rated in peak or program power... these are FAKE specifications. with this amp in bridged mode each of two identical speakers would have to be rated at 2400 watts program or about 3600 watts peak each to survive... When rating speakers and amps ALWAYS compare RMS values... and for safety use an amp of 80% of the RMS rating of the connected speaker or speaker system.
More than likely you have lost the speakers... You sent TOO much power to them and likely the voice coils have heated and distorted and are rubbing the pole pieces and hanging up on them. If the voice coils now short some of the windings, next you will lose your amps as well. If you can access the cones, you can try gently moving them in and out with your fingers and you can feel the voice coils rubbing sometimes. REMEMBER ALWAYS check the RMS rating of the speakers against the RMS ratings of the amps... DO NOT fall for the "advertising" things of "peak power" and "program power" ratings... these numbers are to sell equipment... Use RMS continuous ratings when sizing amps to speakers. Typically the RMS continuous ratings are 1/3 of the peak or 1/2 of the program ratings. You will find amplifiers rated either way so you have to dig out the real ratings. In bridged mode the full output of both halves of the amp work together. Your speakers are rated at 1600 Watts continuous... I am not sure I believe that number even... you would be deaf in front of that quickly... Your amps appear to deliver 5000 Watts RMS in bridged mode... over three times what the speaker is rated at. Since you have the amps, set one aside and run each speaker from one side of a single amp NOT using full gain AFTER you get the speakers re-coned. I would recommend putting a fuse in the speaker lead to HELP protect the speakers when repaired.
If you failed to turn off the amp before changing speaker cables you have fried something. Since the plug shorts when unplugging, if the amplifier were on, the amp would sense the short and will often fry the amplifier or the speaker. You don't mention what the amplifier was. If the speaker were daisy chained to other equipment a ground loop probably formed and blew out the woofer. The horn often has Peavey's "SoundGard" circuit so it probably survived. NEVER change speaker cables while amp is on. ALWAYS secure the 1/4 inch type cables through the handle of cabinets so they can'tbe inadvertenly pulled out and burn up equipment. Your amplifier driving one of these should be rated at no more than 200 watts RMS. These "400 watt Prrogram" ratings are for the birds... fake advertising. Put 400 watts into this RMS and it blows out.
The 600 watt rating is FAKE like most of our advertising and will be either 600 watts PEAK or 600 watts PROGRAM. If it is Peak, use an amplifier with no more than 100 watts a side RMS... If it is program rating use an amp with no more than 150 watts a side RMS but that is pushing it for speaker safety. Also pay attention to the spec of the amp as to what it will output at the impedance of the speakers. I read the spec on the speakers... they are rated 150 watts RMS, NOT 600 watts... Use an amp rated at 150 watts RMS MAXIMUM at 4 ohms per side. Also don't turn up the bass excessively or you be buying new speakers. Twelve inch speakers would be adequate for a 20 by 20 room at SAFE listening levels. If you want driving bass, you need to get an 18 inch subwoofer.
Peavey uses a protection network and sometimes it gets blown when too much power is sent to the speaker. The speaker may be blown however. Peak power for this is 800 Watts and 400 Program... That is NOT RMS power. Make sure your amp is no bigger than 300 Watts RMS driving this. If you are REAL lucky, maybe a lead has fallen off the speaker... Open the unit inspect and test the components.
Well... you probably won't like this, but here is some info: In bridged mode, a different Speakon to speaker cable is required from only the B... it is wired differently and you can only use one of the plugs. The speaker or speaker system CANNOT be less than 8 ohms in bridged mode... this precludes using speakers in parallel or multiple speakers that are less than 16 ohm impedance... such speakers are NOT commonly available as most are either 4 or 8 ohm. There is a slide switch for bridged mode on the face of the mixer. Next thing you won't like... The 1200 Watts specification is PEAK power, NOT RMS... You can get 400 watts RMS per side USING 4 ohm speakers. If you use 8 ohm speakers, each of those will get 200 watts. I use this mixer myself and ALSO repair them. The voltage swing at the outputs is about +/-60 volts MAX (peak). This is about 40 volts RMS by the time the circuit LOSSES are taken into account. Across a 4 ohm speaker you get 10 amps times the 40 volts or 400 watts. Across an 8 ohm you get 5 amps or 200 watts. The voltage rails in the switching amp are +/-70 volts DC so these are reasonable values. Bridged mode just uses both sides of the amp driven in opposite directions for higher voltage out BUT you have to use no less than a single 8 ohm speaker so there is NO advantage to bridged mode power wise. IF YOU NEED more power, use extra speakers from an additonal amp driven by the 1/4 TRS mains output jacks OR use additonal POWERED speakers driven from the same jacks. Please read my tip about the hazard regarding the SLEEVE of the cahnnel A cable when using Speakon to 1/4 plug cables being the HOT and the tip being the cold for channel A. Ground the sleeve accidentally and goodbye channel A amp...
I am not sure how you are measuring the power output to verify it is less than 200 watts. With a true RMS voltmeter you should see 28.28 volts RMS across a net speaker load of 4 ohms. If you use only one 8 ohm speaker, you will get 120 watts. If you are getting the 28 volts there is nothing wrong with the amp. You MAY have blown the speakers OR not generating much bass due to processing in an EQ. I assume you are using at least 15 inch speakers if you want to feel bass. Look up your speakers specs... you will need speakers capable of 32 Hz to feel much. With this amp your speakers should have aa total rating not less than 400 to 600 peak watts or around 300 watts RMScontinuous power rating. Using a lot of high end EQ will keep the amp busy at the high end and reduce the power available at the bass end.