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Brigs Stratton engine stops at first compression point, when attempting to start. Has a new battery. Turning back manually and trying to resart, gets same results. help

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If an older briggs engine say 8-15 hp

electric start may have sheared the flywheel key a fraction and put timing out
valve seats may have come loose and jammed a valve
or con rod come adrift
pop the head of the motor off and inspect

Posted on Apr 27, 2017


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Briggs 17hp intek overheadvalve on a john deere L100 has developed a hard start hard spin on compression stroke. new battery new starter

hi there

pauly46 here

if engine seems to labour when trying to start as if too much compression ?

try adjusting to in and ex valve clearance to 0.003" inlet and 0.005" ex

inlet valve is the bottom valve, and has a alloy push rod. ex valve is top valve and has steel push rod ( as viewed from the front of the machine with rocker cover off ) )

note rotate engine with plug out to tdc compression stroke , then rotate it down the bore on power stroke by 1/4 inch ( 6.35 mm ) this is the point for setting in / ex valve clearances

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cheers hope it hepls

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2004 John Deere 118 tractor, 22HP Intek engine. New battery, but still won't turn engine. I can manually turn it by the pulley but the starter just clicks....when it did work, the starter took a couple of...

It sounds like a starter problem. If the starter was used heavily -long runs or multiple times to start the engine- it could be shorted. Overheating is the enemy of the starters and happens when a starter is used hard to start a balky engine. Repalcing the starter isn't a big job and many B&S engines use the same starter. Find a working starter, replace yours with it and try to start the engine (with clean plug and full battery.)

It is also very possible that the compression relief valve is malfunctioning. It s mounted on the cam shaft and opens the exhaust valve to bleed compression from the cylinder(s) when starting. When it doesn't hold the valve open the starter can't throw the cylinder past top dead center TDC) to relieve compression. The work around is this: turning the pulley manually past TDC will allow a good starter and fully charged battery and clean plug to turn the engine and fire.

B&S has a high failure rate for the compression relief valve and states that the valve clearances are critical for the valve to function properly. And when the engine is worn and valve clearances are set right but it still malfunctions... the company has various reasons why YOU caused the problem.

Replacing the compression relief valve etc takes 3-5 hours and at $65+/hr you can see what the cost is- not including the relief valve which costs somewhere around a $100 (more for larger engines.) Even after replacement, it might not fix the problem.

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